Headsex

There is mixed results. Much like Brock's energy polerizer

Lol. You will need that carbon fuse cover to make over 300 however.... Oh and fluffy dice too.

FKMF6 is not I C E . R Btw, can some mod remove that stupid autocorrect of his name to hewhocannotbenamed.. Its stupid.

He is retarded. Bayswater automatics are still doing his box, and throughout his various power levels, he ALWAYS manages to burn out his c1 clutch (the clutch that applies in 3rd gear, and stays on for 4th). Its funny that even with less power than other cars, he still manages to burns it out. What Phil is attempting to do is machine the c1 drum and with some custom wizardry put in a powerglide hub, and powerglide frictions. The goal of this is to fit 7 or 8 frictions, over the original 5 (or 6), which already have a larger surface area than the normal BTR. Result being approx 40% more capacity, and it will tollerate slippage more (like a ZF does in comparison) Downside .... I can see a snapped intermediate shaft in the near future... As for the word powerglide making it sound bulletproof, pffft. its only got powerglide spec frictions, on a powerglide hub.. Does it increase the strength? No. Does it increase the slip capacity of 3rd gear, and the slipping its currently being given.. Yes. Im sure playing with the tuneup, torque figures, shift ramps, and shift presures would fix his problem... But you'd have to know whats going on to fix that. Yes he is

plenty of chance

Street racing is bad... mmmmmkay If I took my car out, I'm sure I'll have them all

imaboss

can you say axle tramp?!

sorry.. thought this was the bf3 thread...... its definitely not vic spotted

I'm gonna do you a favor. And not teabag you for your behavior

jdownloader ... works very well with all these file servers... your doing it wrong.. Currently getting 1.7mb/s from rapidshare

If they have extended tag, then yes, it should be fine, however still not the solution I would use. These on the left are better.. However, still not my solution.. This is more like what I would use. OEM Spec.. Oems use these for a reason. Kevin has something similar on his surge tanks, Still need pliers to lock them, but you are able to remove them. I can't seem to find anything on the internet about them.. Not really sure what their called to be honest.. Kev, chime in with what they are called?

When the pump turns on it draws a surge of current, you'd almost need a audio 1farad capacity to stop it impacting your electrical system. When they are running they do not draw massive current. Its only the switch on. If you are really concerned about running 2 pumps, get a single aeromotive pump for example.. they dont quite flow 2x 044's, but its a single pump. Personally I run 2x 044's on a process west surge tank, AND I do not have rubber feet. The noise? Meh, I don't sit down whilst I pee. My exhaust note covers most of it anyways. Not even my GF complains about it. Having the return line go back to the tank will cause the surge tank to never fill up.. Making the unit almost useless. Be a man, just run 2x 044's on a surge tank always on. You'll be winning then without all these concerns. BTW, I run 100 octane.. People say e85 is quiet in comparison on the pumps, but personally I don't find the noise loud or annoying..

No. I do not disable decel fuel cut. I like to cool valves and pistons after a wot event

Firstly, yours are hose clamps, not efi clamps. The big difference is yours has holes where the thread of the screw pulls against. This will cut into the rubber over time. Secondly, Im sure those clamps were only for show when kev made the unit, but he ships his surge tanks with clamps where you need a special kind of pliers to lock. Although in saying that, those hose clamps are suitable and will not cut into the rubber as there is no holes for the thread.

Because he likes men now........

win.. I've had a whore of a girl in the past.. It sucks when you find out, but when you realize they are someone else's problem now, you feel so much better Plus, I've got the greatest girl now

Exactly.. Focus your money to get something that covers a solution. which is exactly what a surge tank does.

my average fuel consumption is 99.9L/100km.......... sorry, a little off topic As mick said, its injector cut off during decel, only activated when certain conditions are met.

Yes, I have heard of electric fuel pressure gauges.. Usually the price of one of these is at least $150+, basically the cost of a walbro intank pump. The limitation with the standard pump is boost related, and WOT from idle, boosting over 13psi will open the relief valve on the std fuel pump causing detonation. Usually when you half throttle and get 15psi, its a soft hit, so it wont totally open the relief valve, but by all means is not a way to judge if you need to replace your fuel pump. Even though I'm a advocate of surge tanks, I would still go a intank walbro to replace the stock pump rather than spend money on a electronic fuel pressure gauge. A fuel pressure gauge will give you no warning, by the time you see it, it was already running lean and causing damage. Your more likely to have your engine cough, hiccup(or worse) due to a lean condition before you even register anything on your fuel pressure gauge.. Where's your fuel pressure gauge mounted? in your direct front view periphery vision? or down by the center console like your AFR was mounted when I first saw your G6E? You say you can have a warning setup? So, your Fuel pressure guage is beeping or flashing red the whole time unless your at WOT? If you think about it, you have 4 bar base, less at idle, and over 5bar when boosting.. So to register any warning by the means of warning buzzer or flashing, you would need to set the threshold over 4.5bar at least, meaning 99% of your driving unless your on wot, the warning will be going off I bet there's Plenty of guys that drive around that don't even know what PING is! How does a guy with a standard actuator know when his surging looking at his fuel pressure gauge? He will likely have 16psi boost coming on, tailing off to 9psi up high rpm.. So whats he do when one second he sees 70odd psi, and then he looks at it again and see's 63odd psi? If they were a N/A car with no turbo referenced fuel regulator, then that's the only time a fuel pressure gauge would show any important information what so ever.

PW cooler.

you forgot to mention you had your hand on it also....

having a fuel pump turn on based on a boost switch probably isn't the best idea due to the massive electrical load the fuel pump causes on power up. That electrical energy would best not be surged away from the spark system, which is already weak to start with.

what ever happened to that girl in that picture you mms'd to me?

No Offence BAturb, but your installation is exactly what makes me say professionals should do this. You missed the most important thing about installing such a system, USE EFI CLAMPS, not hose clamps. in a few more K's you'll see exactly why hose clamps are not suitable! Mate you said alot of fluff and then advise to get a fuel pressure gauge? Are you serious? 1) when a drive is giving it WOT, they will be looking at the road, not the gauge 2) having a fuel gauge in the cabin is illegal 3) by the time you notice a drop in fuel presure its too late 4) depending on peoples boost curves, they will notice the fuel presure drop if their boost tapers off also. A fuel pressure gauge, is NOT a solution even worth considering. Quite Simply the problem is the pressure relief valve/spring in the standard fuel pump is too weak, and when the boost is increased it opens and runs lean. The second problem is the fuel surge in sedans. The design of the fuel tank shape was done to get maximum capacity in a sedan, so it wraps under half the back seat and then up to the front side of the boot. the position of the fuel swirl pot obviously has to be in the lowest position in the tank, which is at the front of the tank.. Accelerate too quickly and it will move away from the pickup. I've seen people attempt to fix this problem by drilling holes into the swirl pot to "aid" it filling up.. all it does it stop it filling to its full capacity. Things like this should be left to the professionals who know what they are doing. Suggestions to alternatives should also be left to professionals.