Headsex

Definately.. I've learnt alot since the first time I broke my box. I find this stuff interesting

I dare say its a more effiecent pump, the newer design that is. However it would have been perfect if they had bushed the center of it

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=48502 Link to the rebuild of my 4speed with videos..

haha whoops...

C1 clutch worn out. Look at the videos of my C1 clutch. The clutches are still in good condition considering how much hell they have been through, Yours would be black, and have heat marks in the steel plates. Further to this, you can tune the 2 different auto modes seperately, and it would seem auto mode does not have enough presure during the shift ramping.

Yeh. Not just the 4speed box Yes sorry, forgot to put a warning about the grinder.. Grant was hacking away on the other side of the factory In person it wasnt as loud as it is on camera.. You dont really need sound because we didnt really explain anything on camera, so feel free to turn it down

So, Yesterday I took my car to Bayswater autos to get Phil to rebuild my box. I blew my planatry's again. I've been working with Phil on a series of cars perfecting the mods required to make these box's hold the power, It seems we still keep coming back to these plantery's. I've attached awhole serious of youtube video clips for those who wanna know whats involved inside of the 4speed box. Although I did not capture every single detail, I think these following series of videos demonstrate the box. First of all, this is what blown plantery's sound like in locked first gear (Turn your sound up) First of all removing the valve body Removing the BA Oil pump drive, and removing the main assembly from the gearbox. You also see the rear section of the assembly removed seperately, and on closer inspection of the sun gears(which mesh into the planterys), have damage on them. You also see the Band removed (which is used on 2nd and 4th gear), showing it slightly burnt, Although my 1st to 2nd gear shifting was still excelant. Keep in mind, this still has the factory servo in place. This one is removing the Plantery/Sprag assembly. Although not clear in the video, there is damage to the plantery gears in form of the hardening coming off, and you actually see the remaining part of a gear tooth fall into Phils hands. This shows damage to the annulus gear which is what takes the power from the plantery to the output shaft This shows how the outputshaft/annulus gear sits on the planterys inside the box This shows the C1 clutch, which is used in 3rd gear and 4th gear. Given the state of the clutches shows that our modifications to the box actually held up quite nicely, the clutches WERE re-usable. Although I had mine replaced. This shows the C3 clutch disassembly. This is used in Reverse. The condition of these clutches were basically Brand new. This shows the disassembly of the C3 piston apply. basically the oil builds up behind the clutch pack, and squeeses the frictions which are toothed to the inside shaft, to the steel plates, which are toothed to the outside drum, Causing a 1 to 1 relationship in motion. The reason the C3 clutch was disassembled was to detach the sungear (this was replaced as a set with the plantery set, since it was damaged. This shows the re-installation of the One Way Clutch/Sprag, Plantery Set, and Annulus/Output shaft. Installation of a new band Reassembly of the C1 clutch, and installation of the intermediate shaft(used in 3rd gear) Reassembly of the C3 clutch, and installation of the main assembly into the case. This shows disassembly of the BA oil pump drive. Although my box was rebuild previously using the same oil pump drive as before, We no longer do that, Instead we fit a PRE-BA oil pump drive. The main reason is that the BA oil pump drive is not bushed, and during high rpms(read:thrashing), the pump somewhat resonates and the outer ring eats into the pump housing, causing presure loss. I took photos, but they are somewhat hard to make out Here is a comparison picture of a BA oil pump on the right, and a AU oil pump on the left. Notice the inner ring on the AU pump has a bush bearing, which keeps it running true on the shaft it sits on, where as the BA one on the right does not, and you can already see the rather odd wearing pattern on the inside (hense the angle of this shot). You can also see the housing on the right which is what the BA pump sits in. Since I changed my Oil pump drive, I've got a tempory Stanard AU convertor in my car. My convertor has been sent off to get the snout modified (look at the oil pump drive differences in the centre), and I'm also getting the stall speed altered higher again for drag racing purposes. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask me here. I've learnt a hell of a lot about these boxes since I've been playing with them with phil over the last few years. Although the box's are relatively standard builds, there are valvebody modification, and various modiciations to some of the moving parts Danny.

This is what smashed planterys sound like. Locked in first gear doing about 20km/h

I run the maxxis tyres on my car.. The traction rating on the tyres is one of the highest I've seen.. Check the print on the tyre.. "Traction - AA" They not a bad tyre.. Good to see you actually hook up with them on the track

its always been a "her" stoner!

I smashed the plantery's again.. will be interesting to see the cause when it comes out tomorrow

Sounds like 2 torque limits coming to play there... 1st one sounds like the stall convertor limit set to 4000rpm.. the second one sounds like either throttle rpm limiter, or shift torque limit (using throttle control).. without datalogging, or seeing the car, I can only speculate but given your autos making noises in 1st and 4th, that's your plantery's eating away.. it would be in your best opinion to stop driving it now and getting it fixed as your just sending metal through your box.

There's no reason why you cant crack a 10 with a 4speed.. Many people have done it. I believe Dion has done a 10.20 odd in a ute(read: heavier than sedan) with a 4speed auto. torque limits are easy to manipulate, both torque truncation and shift torque reduction. via throttle shutting and or spark retard.. What torque limits are posing the most problem?

What your describing there is stuffed plantery's.. Your box is dead now, I wouldnt drive on it until you get it swapped out.. all your doing is sending metal through the entire system.. Not good, and much more costly at repairs. was your plantery's swapped out with PRE-BA plantery's? also was the front pump also swapped out in the previous build?

I'm sure I'd get slapped if I even suggested the idea to her

I've got a date tonight...... Plus the machine is out of action until tomorrow arvo

a 6speed auto will cost you a decent amount yes, but it will require a massive change in wiring looms, abs module too I believe, and various modules reprogrammed to make it work.. At the same time, the shifting in the 6speed autos cannot be manipulated greatly, and eventually will shag out much like Mauz's 2 boxes did. a freshened up 4speed auto, tuned right, should easily be able to take 350rwkw with decent reliability. A number of cars I know of are still going strong on their 4speeds. If you were to push the limits over 400, different turbo etc, then yeah.. a 4speed might not be upto the task.

I've just smashed my plantery's for the second time. But I do drive my car around on ET Streets all the time. When the box comes out saturday morning we'll find out the cause of the broken plantry's, Last set we pulled apart was due to the oil pump drive sh*tting itself. Lets hope mines the same!

I tuned this car when it was owned by its previous owner.. It used to be citric acid! I actually like the green.. Wonder how the doors open.. a Keyfob with 4 buttons? one for each door? You'd never have to worry about locking the car again.. haha

Autotechnique also are a TIEN distro.. Their in Knoxfield..

Well to give you a idea.. a BA has 1472kb flash size, and a BF has 1024kb flash size. Obviously BF is smaller, But there is ALOT of empty space in the BA pcm(which you reprogram every time..) Calibration data wise, the BA calibration block is approx 130kb in size, the BF calibration block is approx 262kb in size. pretty much double in size.. Double the amount of tables would mean at least 4 times more processing code. As for the xxxx pages of code, I couldnt comment, I would estimate there is something like would be over 300thousand lines of native code such as C or C+ at least.

If you wanna know more nitty gritty about the processors used look up the following.. Blackoak(BA), Freescale PowerPC MPC555 Spanishoak(BF), Freescale PowerPC MPC565 edit: motorola semi is known as freescale ..

Tuner makes a change in Advantage3 Program capa flash box from laptop -> 3-4 minutes unplug from laptop, walk over to car and flash car.. 3-4 minutes.. (go time it..) that's for a BA.. a BF only takes approx 1 minute to flash the car. Further to this. the capa flash box does a full erase and full write to the pcm. Hense why it takes so long. As like sniper. I erase calibration block and reprogram that only. Advantage of doing this on a Blackoak pcm (BA) is that the calibration is located on the external flash chip, which is faster. If you watch your capa flash box reflash your BA (blackoak), you will notice the lights move slowly for approx 2minutes. That is the internal flash, 440kb in size. Then when they flash fast for the last minute or so, that's the external 1mb flash. So,given that, the external flash is approx 4 times quicker than the internal flash. In sayning that the SpanishOak pcm has 1024kb of internal flash, and its all fast, hense why they only take approx 1 minute to reflash

As in I've developed my own solution for programming these vehicles.. Not many have.. Its still very much private work in progress.