Headsex

I have to agree.. Im quite amazed on how it suits.. Althought it would have to be 2 pac..

Cheers dave.. Haydn just reminded me.. I also fitted billet oil pump gears. What a mission that was. Turns out, they were 5/100th of a mm thicker than the factory ones, and bind up when assembled in the housing. Not going to mention WHO the oil pump gears came from, but when contacted, they wanted it sent back for them to examine. Time was a issue. However, after speaking to another workshop who used to buy oil pump gears from this place, has had the same problem. I went with his recommended method of fixing the problem, which was to wet sand them down to the correct thickness on a piece of glass. Once I did that, I put it in a lathe to make sure it was still true. But what a mission that was.

A number of rumours needed clearing up. Clearly if Haydn didn't have trust in me, He would have taken his vehicle elsewhere to repair. It is quite a very toey car to drive around. very very responsive. I can't wait to delivery it back to Haydn once its all completed. He will be quite impressed I must say :D

Photos of Haydns engine build! Haydns Rebuild - Ford XR6 Turbo.com

Around 6 months ago, Haydns F6's engine failed. Plenty of theory's and rumors flew around on why it failed, and usually the tuner is always to blame, which was me. Too much power brought on too early, Detonation, Pinging, Running lean. Blah, I heard it all. Too much power? nope, The car was not running much boost, with very conservative timing, as I had told Haydn he needed a more sufficient fuel system (surge tank, 044 for example) before I would push his power. Bringing the power on hard? Nope. People usually assume I spike the boost to 22psi coming on boost to make it come on hard. But nope, that's not me. My boost is always Flat 15 - 17psi the whole RPM range, depending on modification and power level. After Disassembling the engine, and taking the parts and photos to 3 independent engine shops came back with these conclusions. 1) There was no sign of detonation/pinging of the engine. The Pistons, ring landings, and bearings were like BRAND NEW (except for the missing number 2 piston). 2) There was no whiteness colouring in the exhaust / turbine wheel / turbine housing. Indicating it was not running lean. So that ruled the "bad" tune out. They all concluded to this. 3) Clearly what you can see is the head of the conrod bolt on the left had sheared off. In doing that, the big end of the conrod opened up, pushing stress onto the other conrod bolt on the right, opening up the conrod big end up, eventually putting so much stress on the bolt it stretched so much it sheared off. Further Impact markings seemed to indicate once the crank journal had broken free of the conrod, as it came around again, it hooked ontop of the big end, ripping it downwards, Indicating the big end let go before the beam did. Why did the conrod bolt fail? Various assumptions were made. Such as, Excessive High Revs, Excessive down gearing/engine braking, faulty bolt, stress crack in the bolt, where some idea's that were floated, But one particular engine shop noticed that the head of the bolt that failed had left a imprint in the conrod. Much like you leaving a footstep in wet sand, Suggesting it was potentially over torqued initially. Haydn has even mentioned on occasion his floor mat getting stuck holding the throttle down, and shifting the Auto to Neutral whilst the engines bouncing on the rev limitor could also have contributed to it. Which one of the assumptions were correct? Who knows.. But it definitely rules out tuner error. The engine would have failed a hell of a lot earlier if it was the tune. Anyways.. That was several months ago. NOW for the fun stuff! Its a Hovering engine! Darren's a Dentist, So we can't show you his face Found the oil leak! Nude engine Freshly refined Oil anyone? Brand new FG F6 Short motor The H beam on the right, vs the Factory F6 Rod and Piston. Shiney Forged Pistons, and H Beam rods. Freshly Painted Block, and Reco BF Head Cams and lower inlet manifold installed Everyones Familiar with these!.... But, I think it looks a little boring..... Soooo After a bit of love, it was looking like this! And then this.... And this! Afew beers later, It was now homed like this... And now on the streets looking like this! Most of you may have "noticed" "Why does a F6 have a red rocker cover?!" Well.. that's because haydns BLUE rocker cover and rocker cover garnish are getting painted. The colour has not been decided on.. So we both are open to suggestions. Currently I am running the engine in, and making sure there's no abnormal noises or any oil/water leaks what so ever. So far so good. Dyno time is happening in the next week or so. Further to this. It was originally planned that a replacement F6 FG Short be dropped in with some H beam conrods. Haydn later decided he wanted forged pistons whilst it was at this stage.. That explains why a FG Short was initially purchased. Also.. Its amazing how pretty the engine looks with some paint on the block, sump and timing covers. These engines dress up very nicely. danny.

Well. Its still in my driveway as I'm running it in, and making sure everything is A-OK.. ie. no Leaks.> NO funny noises. etc. It may be here for a little longer now as Haydn's father passed away this evening. Its quite responsive and a beautiful car to drive.. Oh wait.. I know why.. I TUNED IT! Im Tipping Its moved from a definately yes will be at the cruise to a, Maybe.. Given Haydn's circumstances with his father. You did a great job James.... I've already spoken to you Haydn, but once again, Condolences to you and your family for the loss of your father. Danny.

haha. Your car needs a wash haydn! Im embarressed to be seen in it!

Yeh. it worked well :D

He is.. surprised him with the car yesterday at work. even my boss was in on it. lol!

btw.. the red rocker cover is only tempory. The original one is being painted along with the garnish...

I'm running the car in for Haydn, checking for abnormal noises, leaks, etc. Want to make sure I give back a car with no issues. The engines been totally rebuild, New block, new crack, new sump, new head, new cams, Oil Pump gears, H beam rods, SPS pistons, arp head studs.. Pistons are quiet, and don't resemble any piston noise associated with alot of forged piston engines also. The car also features the full stage 2 nizpro kit (upgraded from stage1) Its currently got the previous tune as was in the engine prior. And won't be hitting the dyno just yet.. But expect 380rwkw with the standard turbo on pump fuel.

FYI guys.. Check the vic section for the XMAS Cruise to RYE.... 20th of December! :D

Ahh.. Titan motorsports.. I have to confess.. I'm in love with Darin's mrs... Jessica Bartin.. Who stick shifts Her Titan Supra into the 9's

nah its ok.. We're only interested in Big heavy duty shafts here .....

Nice.. Take pics of the shafts when ya get them :D

no no no.. the half shaft to CV spline is 30spline... the Housing spline into the Diff is still factory sized :D Sorry I had to re-read the email from albins again.. I'll paste it here for others.. I asked about the inner cv housing spline into the diff being a weakness, and this was Hadens reply Anyways.. Sorry to hijack the thread

yeah.. Which is what im worried about =)... I know albins now have a complete shaft setup, they turn the inner housing to a bolt on type utilising porche 930 cv's and custom drive flanges. They also utilise a 30spline shaft as well. But its very $$$

Be interesting to see what happens with your IRS. I know dave(blueboost) has pushed quite far with it, but ultimately busted the center.. I think he mentioned he used KPM Shaft/cv setup.. I've got the albins cv setup in the inner cv's, albins shafts, but standard outter cv's.. I didnt know they had them available at that point.. Next weaknesses are the inner cv housing which splines into the diff.. I've seen the shafts snap off.. And then there's the Diff itself... maybe a harrop trutrak center might help there?

-Spine off the list.. he told me his not coming =)

dont you own those plates RSPEC?

lol.. Nah then you'll need the plates "RLSIC"

Fail how?! Im sure it will be REAL QUICK!

got your new car yet christian ? Maybe you should put your plates on it.

Spiro, You didn't offend me.. My post attempted to answer the guys question. Basically answering YES, the standard PCM does go "SKETCHY" over 25 odd psi of boost. But you can tune it so its not a problem. But its crude. When I mean by crude is that your tuner will be adjusting the ~25psi load point for Timing AND fuel, regardless of how much boost you running over 25psi, ie, 30psi, 35psi, 40psi.. The PCM cannot tell the difference between ANY of those boost levels. In doing that, ~25psi will be rich, and starts coming good towards the desired boost level it was tuned at. But at the end of the day. The difference between the boost raising from 10psi to 38psi under WOT conditions, your not going to notice the rich fuel mixture as it comes up, around and passes ~25psi as it will be a split second change. Ideally this much boost is best setup with a 3.5bar or 4bar map sensor.. bringing other problems as I mentioned previously. Me personally. I would never put a aftermarket PCM on these cars. And its credit to people like Spiro and his tuner who battle on with such extreme setups keeping the factory management in place. danny.