karlp2

Hi All, hoping to pick pick your brain. Bought some brembo 4 pot rears brand new off EBay, part number 20.A378.21, they have the same part number as others for sale on there and said they were to suit an FG FPV etc, went to put them on my G6E with some DBA rotors (DBA42108S) and the back of the rotor is binding slightly on the caliper when the calliper is tightened up. I’ve previously fitted up brembo 6 pots to the front without any issues. I have aftermarket wheels with enough clearance for brembos. Wouldn’t have thought the hub setup etc wouldn’t be any different between my car and an FPV or am I wrong? I’ll talk to Racebrakes tomorrow about the rotors to see if they have any different offsets. Would welcome any other thoughts.

Thanks, that information helps alot. I now understand clearly what the dash cluster wires relate to.

Hi, I’ve got some Autometer gauges, there’s a single lot four wires (Red, black, white, orange) to connect to the dash cluster. Which four wires from the dash cluster should I be using? There’s contradictory info online so want to check in with this group. Thanks for your help.

Currently have the motor out of the G6ET for a rebuild, have noticed on the ZF there is slight up and down play where the driveshaft mounts up, can this be adjusted to tighten it up? There’s like a nut around the output shaft. Have noticed a vibration through the drive chain so was thinking this could be contributing to it. Thanks for your help.

There was a intake piping. Zane of Maxx Performance picked it up when retuning it for me. He didn’t do the original tune.

Went to a track day on Saturday and had issues with the front 6 pots overheating and shuddering. The car has near new DBA T3 rotors, in prep for the track day I swapped out the pads for some Pagid RSL1 pads (so a track endurance pad), as per instructions from Racebrakes I gave the rotors a light sand, fitted the new pads, bedded them in as per instructions. I did three hours to the track day, did the the first few laps without pushing too much to help the pads bed in again. After that had some fun, noticed coming down the back straight and braking from around 190/200 the front not quite biting and after a couple more laps the front starting to shudder. Went in to give the car a chance to cool down, second time out and the shudder was just getting worse, looking at the rotors they had heat spots on them from overheating. Wouldn’t say I pushing the brakes any harder than other falcons around me. What’s happening here for the brakes to not bite properly and just overheat? As mentioned they were near new rotors and brand new pads. Thanks

Good to see another NZ G6ET owner, I’ve got a moderately modded one. There’s the FPV/Tickford owners club which allow G6ET owners too. They’re very active with cruises around the Waikato, just did an awesome cruise around the Coromandel two weeks back, around 12 cars. They’re on Facebook too, also on Facebook is FGNZ - heaps of G6ET owners on there, there’s also Ford Falcon Club NZ on Facebook... yes most activity is happening through Facebook - I’ve joined heaps of things on there and mange a decent cruise at least fortnightly. I’m in Auckland and go to just about all events happening, you’re welcome to connect on Facebook so I can let you know of anything coming up. There’s also a group of us meeting tomorrow (Sun 29 Dec)10.15 at Hampton Downs for Caffeine and Gasoline followed by a few laps around the track.

Hi, looking to pull the diff out of my G6ET so another guy can fit a trutac for me. I’m hoping to find a step by step guide/video etc. Thanks

Have booked with Zane for my retune, looking forward to him getting it properly sorted for me. Valve spring upgrade happening this week ahead of Zane’s tune

By full exhaust I’m talking about from, and including the dump pipe back

Appreciate your feedback. Yes I’m looking at other tuner options, nothing really jumping out at me with the rep of tuners here

Hi, have G6ET with 355rwkw, currently have a full xforce system with the twin 2.5” pipes. Other mods include a Walbro 400, PW stage 1 intercooler, 1000cc injectors, GTX3582 gen 2 with flapper mod and porting etc. Had hoped for more kw from the recent tune, a couple people have suggested that single exhaust 4” system would help, thoughts? Reluctant to change the exhaust unless it’ll make a difference, wasn’t cheap to buy being a full stainless one. Thanks

Cheers, a good 6-7mm clearance

The brembos brakes fitted well with plenty of clearance

Thanks, Koya were awesome, had cad specs on hand for my wheels/offset and the brembo 6 pots, the guy said they’ll fit okay. Doing a test fit next Thursday... fingers crossed. Cheers for the advice

I’m running 20” rims Koya SF07 (20x9 offset is 30) front with but yeah will need to look very closely at the fitment as on F6s there’s like only a few mm clearance with 19s

A guy I know has some 6 pot brembos with rotors that he is looking to sell, they’re 9 years old. They’re in good alround order with plenty of meat on the rotors. I asked him how much he wants and he’s asked me to make him an offer. What’s a fair price to pay? I’m going to use them on my G6ET but will of course first need to do a test fit for wheel clearance etc. The car running super low springs too so I need to be careful with using spacers. Thanks

Got car back fromtuner, achieved 355rwkw and 802nm, suffered bad heat soak with follow up runs typically dropping 30rwkw. Not too sure that the car feels that much different to drive over the old mods. Definitely sounds better with the huge induction noise and turbo whine but just not quite going as well as I’d anticipated, not sure what to do next

Where in the 300s will these mods get my G6ET on 98 fuel: Walbro 400 (already fitted) 1000cc injectors (to be fitted) PW stage 1 intercooler and piping (already fitted) X-force - full system with the twin 2.5 pipes (already fitted) GTX3582R gen2 with modded exhaust housing (36mm flapper, porting etc), and 14psi actuator. Just picked up last week, to be fitted. Tune being done on a roller dyno, will be go in the next few weeks when the tuner is free. Thanks

Turbo upgrade, have a G6ET with a stock 3576 turbo with the porting and flapper mod, looking to upgrade to the GTX3582R Gen 2. When ordering I just want to make sure I’m getting everything needed, my questions 1) there’s a couple options around the flapper size and the actuator size - what is recommended? 2) Also reading through I understand I need a couple reducers but can’t see any details to guide me on what exactly I need to order? Current supporting mods: Walbro 400 pump, 1000cc injectors, P/W stage 1 intercooler, and a full xforce (twin 2.5”) exhaust. Cheers for your help

Retune question... So a few months back I had some mods done to my G6ET, and had overboost issues sending it into limp mode, tuner made adjustments to back off the boosting between gear changes - well that’s how he explained it anyway. I’ve since had the stock turbo flapper and porting mod done through my regular mechanic. With a retune how much more boost can I run and what sort of extra power do you think I can get? Current mods include: walbro 400 fuel pump, Siemens 630cc injectors, a Process West stage one intercooler and piping, a full x-force stainless exhaust from the dump pipe back (running the twin 2.5” pipe system), the current tune is running 13 pound of boost, on a hub dyno it made 337 rwkw and 713nm, so probably more like just over 300 true kw at the wheels. I’m trying to justify what I’ll get for the retune cost. Cheers.

How do I get my iPhone to take a smaller pic?

Dyno graph. Just trying shrink the pic of the graph down, it's over the site limit