jrmr

Hopefully this is useful... I have a large excel file with injector data (about 1600 different Bosch injectors). I have included the standard B series injector for comparison. I also included a picture to help with the spray pattern and orientation.

I was hoping for some assistance regarding fuel pressures on a BA XR6 Turbo. I did a turbo engine swap on my BA wagon including fitting a Walbro GSS341 pump into the stock cradle. The FPR is the stock Bosch 0280160575 unit. I noticed there seemed to be a bit of hesitation during acceleration so I fitted a fuel pressure gauge to have a look. At idle with the old FPR and the manifold reference line connected it was sitting at about 47psi. After removing the manifold reference line it only increased to about 51-52psi fuel pressure. I thought either the gauge was out or the FPR was faulty. I installed a different second hand Bosch FPR to see if the reading on the gauge was the same but it now read higher so I think my FPR was faulty. Now when the pump primes the gauge shows about 58psi which is good. When the manifold reference line is connected and engine is idling it shows about 51psi. With the engine running and no reference line it shows maybe 55psi which I am not confident is good. My question is relating to the reading under boost. The engine has a 7lb wastegate actuator fitted and under boost the car is making about 9 psi. I would expect the gauge to show approx 67psi but it only shows 61-62psi fuel pressure. Am I right in thinking that this FPR is supposed to be a 1:1 ratio and that my fuel pressure should be higher? I did have a search around on here and couldn't really find solid numbers on what I want to know. Lots of info about Pierberg pumps and FPR1200's though Although it is a complete pain in the butt, I do plan on pulling the tank out to check out the corrugated hose fitted to the pump as I have read it splits occasionally.

Wow. I spend spent several days reading this thread. So many highs and lows throughout the build. I skim read the last 10 pages because I was excited to see the outcome and was genuinely disappointed to read page 67.

@Lunchietey How did you get on with the conversion? You mentioned "8 weeks" and that was back in August. I would like to see another turbo wagon up and running. I converted one myself with a complete BA turbo engine + trans swap. You may have it sorted already, but the sedan turbo exhaust fits IF you extend the middle section (on a BA this is the section after the CAT converter section with the dump pipe) by about 90mm and then I had the rear section made up by a shop in single 3" pipe.

I swapped a BA turbo engine into my BA wagon. Both cars were auto which made it easier. I wanted to keep it easy for me in that I didnt want to take the car somewhere to get the PCM flashed to get it going. Its not exactly what you are doing but its just an example and might prompt you to think about some of the other issues you will come across. I had to install a turbo engine bay loom (or N/A XR6 as previously mentioned) which has the plug for wastgate solenoid. This required removing the drivers side guard. The passenger side loom was just the additional third plug plus loom on the PCM for wastegate. I swapped in the PCM and BEM from the donor car. I also had to swap the dash loom as it has extra wiring for T/C light in the cluster, wiring for the auto headlight sensor and a few other things. This meant the whole dash came out. The wagon was only a 3 channel ABS sensor car so I had to swap the ABS module for the 4 channel one out of the turbo car. This also required a second brake line running from the front to back of the car. The rear brakes are normally on one circuit on the wagon and the turbo ABS module requires two lines. I used the existing airbag/restraint module. There is a program called Forscan that I used to delete the turbo keys from the PCM and BCM so I could use my wagon keys (wagon steering column). This process was relatively easy but I couldn't find much info on it before I started. Installing the turbo engine, turbo trans and intercooler etc was the easy bit. The only outstanding thing is that the car has a 3.23 ratio diff whereas the donor car had a 3.45. Speedo is not out as the speed is measured from the wheel ABS sensors. The only part I paid someone for was to make the rear section of the exhaust over the diff. In your case, you have the pedal assembly to swap, clutch reservoir, wastegate solenoid, engine bay loom or just the wiring for the solenoid if you want to save a bit of time, tailshaft... The diff will be fine to get it mobile but as has been said it might not last too long. In saying that, my M78 wagon diff with an LSD has held up fine but its just a stock tune. Your biggest hurdle will be because you are installing an earlier series engine into a later series car and I expect you will have to take it somewhere to sort the PCM out so it talks with the rest of your car and you can start it UNLESS you change everything so the PATS system is happy. If you are getting it tuned anyway they can probably sort that stuff out for you anyway. Will just need to get towed there.