bkofoed

Edit- Argghhh read your other thread! Still, I'd rather see a simple buffer circuit used to combine the syncs- you don't want your VGA card to die an early death! So for the rest of us, what are the timing parameters and program you used? BK

Hey Panda, Looks good. Just a couple of comments - what video mode do you use on the PC output? The LCD is really an NTSC monitor so I imagine the vid mode you need to output must be close to NTSC resolution and refresh rate? What software do you use to fine tune the visible edges of the screen? - have you considered buffering and merging the outputs of the H-Sync and V-Sync from the PC end, instead of shorting them together? A simple CMOS "OR" gate would do and would be more compatible with a range of video cards (some cards might even have issues as both H-Sync and V-Sync shorted, as they are outputs you are effectivily driving the signal back into the cards other pin with your connections) Regards, BK

Sherm, would you mind taking a photo of the cracks for all to see? Even if it's repaired/replaced post a pic up and highlight the area so we can all check? My seat is in the 'squeak' phase and I want to have a thorough look this weekend. Thanks! BK

Hmmm..... Read this guys http://www.xede.com.au/wiring/XWD%20-%20BA%20XR6_XR8.pdf The way the standard Xede is wired, unplugging it means no engine running at all (you won't get Crank angle pulses, nor MAP sensors etc) You will need to bridge 5 pairs of wires back into the ECU for it to be happy. I can't imagine the Uni-chimp (spliced version) wiring will be vastly different to this. TBO240 do you have the later 'plugin-loom' style? That version acts as an extension to the factory loom, and routes the relevant signals via the Uni-chimp. Removing that means the car wiring is stock==runs stock. Also, weren't Uni-Chimp releasing live bank switching? I think it is due in two weeks? BK

You won't be blowing any fuses charging a 1000 uF cap. Your average single-din low power car cd/tuner has much more than that across the supply. A 1 Farad however, being a million times more storage, would be a different story! Also, I would have thought that the tail-light cluster has all lights Earthed to the chassis- I.e. common ground, with a switched 12v line coming from the Brake switch/Indicator circuit etc. BK

So to clarify you would have the Capacitor in parallel with the LED globe array: GND------LED array--\--------- ( Brake switch ) ----------- +12 GND------I|+----------/ 1000uF/25v Electrolytic cap On triggering the Brake, the cap will initially be 'seen' as a very low resistance path while the electrolytic charges, and high resistance some milliseconds later as it approaches full charge. The charge flow to a cap such as this with no series limiting resistor is very quick, in the order of milliseconds, so it would not cause a detectable delay to the brakes lighting. On the release of the Brake, the now charged cap will keep the 12v across the brakes LED's for a brief period while it discharges. The low current requirements of LED's means you may get a half second or so soft fade out after each braking activity. Can't wait for someone to try it! BK

Hmm, If indeed it does operate as you describe, and needs a brief spike of currnet to ground to sense brake engagement, perhaps a suitably sized Electrolytic capacitor could work? They are cheap have high current draw to charge (and negligable current flow when charged). It would work like this: When the brake switch is open circuit, the cap would discharge through the LED's fairly quick - perhaps a half-second brakelight soft fade out - may even look good! And it would serve to be a near short when exposed to 12v as the brake switch is closed. My other concern with the 'resistor bank' approach is that dissipating 20 something watts into resistors (remember a 5 watt ceramic resistor is the size of a lego brick) is likely to generate a bit of heat over time, and look big and ugly - as noted above resistors don't have the non-linearity vs temp of a real globe anyway so may not fool the ecu. I'd be interested to hear if someone can try it- I'd go with a 1000uF /25v to start with- and remeber to get the polarity right! If it's a sucess, it shall be known as BK'S LED BRAKELIGHT MOD! I would have a go myself this weekend, but alas I need to focus on my Laser TX3 which insists on ignoring the Oxy and temp sensors and running in 'cold start' mode all the time :( (read rich as hell -enough to kill my cat in no time) Good luck! BK

Do we know if the crossover pipe diameters internally are increased on the typhoon? The photos showed a diameter on a normal T of about the size of a 50 cent piece as the intake air crosses the engine to the intake side of the turbo. Maybe the crossover is redesigned to be less restrictive on the FPV versions? Maybe it's just wishful thinking Intuitively I would expect a second CAI (the normal one is kindof a cold-air intake as it's mouth is ahead of the engine hot air) to add something of benfit, particularly at speed with the high capture area helping to pressurize the plumbing between the atmosphere and the compressor wheel. Given that it is much easier to add the 2nd CAI than re-bore the crossover pipes, I'd be going for it. As for factory ECU, yes it will restrict boost, but it does not actively restrict how quickly boost is reached due to more efficient plumbing (for the intake side at least- the exhaust system has a big influence on how well the wastegate works so radical exhausts can cause limp mode without other changes such as wastegate porting- been through that on my TX3 4WD!) Ofcourse no intake plumbing and a smooth bell-mouth style adaptor direct to the turbo intake would be ideal. I still have images in my head from turbomustangs.com where you can see the compressor wheel through the front bumper! Ofcourse that was on a drag car, but still I wouldn't want to catch a bug on a 80,000 rpm+ compressor wheel! Good luck

Remeber the manifold runs at a positive pressure when on boost. The compressor wheel creates a vacuum on the intake plumbing towards to atmosphere, and a positive pressure towards the engine. It takes power from the exhaust to do this, by converting kinetic (energy in air movement) to mechanical (rotating exhaust and therefore compressor wheel in the turbo) to do this. Sucking the air from the atmosphere through say a drinking straw would work, but the restriction to airflow would be passed on as additional mechanical resistance to turning to the turbo, and thus passed on againa as additional backpressure to the engine, resulting in sluggish performance and possibly even a rev 'cap' (airflow cap really) depening on how bad the restriction is! There are benefits in adding the CAI, and certainly an increase in induction noise (coupled with a cotton/oil air filter such as BMC/K&N). What is less proven is if this slight reduction in restriction causes any faster spool in the turbo (I.e. turbo reaching factory boost limit lower in the rev range) or not. After looking at other people's photos on the crossover pipe diameter in places I'm less conviced about the big-mouth CAI benefits, but given the low cost and satisfaction of extra noise (and doing it yourself!) I went for the bunnings 100MM plumbing pipe adapter and XR8 snorkel too. Hope this helps! BK

Tuner has about as much experiance as anyone in Aus with these cars and edit, and I tend to agree, on a STOCK fuel system, this car should be on the yucky side of lean, it may not be, but I tend to think it would be, please realize this is my opinion only. If the car had a clean fuel filter, clean air filter, new plugs etc when it was tuned, and now th fuel filter is blocked ans the plugs are gunked up along with ash*t batch of fuel, POP goes the weasel. and no-one wants that, ever. I am not asking to see your AFR's, just check them, under all conditions, cruise, load, accel etc. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Indeed. There are many variables, fuel pressure and other tolerances all being part of it. Not to mention tolerances on the dyno! Rather than make assumptions I will wait for more info. It would be jumping to conclusions assuming the dyno print would never come out, wouldn't it? Sorry to clog up a perfectly good thread- maybe Adam can give it a vacuum later- I hate to see good info and advice buried in mindless factless banter- my own included. Eugene and others- nice work and on topic! BK

Because I have the experience its not a generalisation...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It's a guess. It may be an educated guess but it's still a guess. Try working with facts- see how that pans out- less chance of foot-in-mouth disease! As a bonus, people won't think your jumping to conclusions without seeing all the evidence. I'm sure the relevant prints will be made available for all in due course- in the meantime let's work to help him out based on what we know. BK

That sounds like an unsubstantiated assumption. Why can't you let that subject rest until there is evidence one way or the other? The point about verifying AFR's has been raised enough in this thread! Tuner you have much experience to offer without making sweeping generalisations - why not give it a try! BK

Yay! Found the photo and a discussion on this previously: (also learnt that you best put '+' on all your search terms, else you get hits on EVERYTHING!) BCL highlights the ugly pinch in the factory plumbing: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...pic=11934&st=40 Go to post #40 and #41 (skip the photos of guys urinating into their tanks and hand-draw flow diagrams!) BK

Nope! You said shortening pipe reduces spool time- True. I said taking out flow pinches in the pipe reduces pressure restrictions requiring less boost (at compressor) to reach target boost (at intake). It's the combination that gives gains. Sadly we have to accept the turbo plumbing is an 'afterthought' on a engine designed for atmo operation. BK

Remember there is pinching of the factory pipework as it passes through the front left of the engine bay, round to the intercooler- the reduced diameter of the pipe there causes a flow restriction for which extra boost must be generated to overcome. Once the pipes are opened up (and have uiniform diameter throughout) you'll hit your target boost earlier as the turbo doesn't have as many restrictions to force air through. Thus spooling quicker and turning over turbo over slower for target boost (even if it is tuned to the same boost level). There was a photo of a standed engine showing this somewhere, from a Ford display I thinK? hmmm I'll look. BK

Sorry took too long proof reading - to continue So the change in pulley size causes the reg to put more power to the stator coils, which will present almost exactly the same load on the engine as it did before the pulley change! If you're lucky (thick?) and went for a HUGE pulley to drop RPM, you may even lose the abillity to charge at idle altogether!! PS - I like electronics too. I do feel a peltier setup is not efficient enough (yet) to cool the intake charge or intercooler while driving and be practical. Here's why. At the lights, we have radiant heat hitting the intercooler (from radiator, etc, hot engine air), plus all the stored heat in the pipeworks and turbo housing, and the intercooler is already radiating away as much as it can (assuming no airflow). This is all happening when stock. The peltier can extract the heat, but as it is a pure heat pump, it shoves it to the hot side, and then what? We need BIGGER area of heatsink, bigger than the whole IC core, to get rid of the heat faster than the core was doing already. Yes, I accept that we can push more heat onto a heatsink (say a few hundred degress) with the peltier and therefore develop a greater ratio of heat transfer due to the delta with ambient temp, but we are still talking about something BIG. Ofcourse we could water-cool the peltier hot side, but then why not just water-cool the intake charge with water to air intercooler anyway??? Now, consider those used on PC's - the peltiers are in the order of 80 - 100 W and cool the tiny die which dissipates 50-70W as heat. Our intercooler is rated at several KILOWATTS of cooling - that means a lot of Peltiers drawing a lot of power needed, causing more fuel burn, heating the cooling water, producing more radiant heat out of the radiator core! As someone said above, they could be used to accelerate the cooling process at idle quite well I'm sure. However the amount of cooling needed to maintain peak boost at even part-throttle up a hill for a few seconds and keep charge temps down is probably far too high for peltier technology today. Water to air already handles this well. What if we took those 300+ watts you're talking about for peltier and used them drive more Radiator fans? Stock ones I'd guess run at about 100-150W, so we'd be roughly talking twice the airflow- wouldn't that be something? Mega fans - ON - mega fans OFF Later. BK

mickq - You're close with your understanding, but the load they place on the engine does dynamically change with the output load they are driving. Alternators are complicated beasts- they are close to AC electric motors in that they have no fixed magnets. Instead they energise their own electromagnets to create the magnetic field. What makes them different to AC motors is that the amount of energy put into the fixed coils (stator) is decided by a number of factors, primarily the difference between the target voltage for ideal charging and the system voltage of the battery with all accessories running. It's the regulators job to set the power to stator coils. As the revs go up, the power to the stator coils goes down to maintain the same ouput voltage and current. (Regulators are IC's these days, and located at/near the alternator, not ECU) If the electrical load on the battery increases, causing the system voltage to drop, the regulator allows more power into the stator coils to increase the output power of the alternator for the given revs. The engine feels this as the loaded coils are harder to turn in a stronger electric field. This process of course can't go on indefinetly- the power the alternator can produce is a function of revs and the number of coil turns in the Stator (fixed) and Rotor (moving) coils. Thus alternators are rated at 55, 65, 80 etc Amps (at around 13.8v DC). Ok so now consider the constant revs example. The ECU likes to keep idle in a tight range, regardless of load (excusing AC which on some cars triggers high-idle). So how do we keep the revs the same and produce more current for say high beams plus Cro's stadium lights? Free power? nope. Well, the Alternator senses the greater load (as a voltage drop across the electrical system) and cranks up current to the stator. The stator in turn provides increased work (mechanical load) to the engine. The engine notices the idle start to drop, and so whacks in more fuel. The whole system will self-govern and the end result is the injectors fire in more fuel per minute, the idle revs remains the same, and the alternator produces more current. A neat outcome of all this is that we have perfect conditions to drive the Alternator warning light. It is illuminated by the differecnce in voltages between the Baterry and the Alternator output. So when the engine is at rest, the light is on (12 bat - 0 alt = 12 v at light) When the battery is nearly stuffed and wont charge, we have (10 bat - 12 = -2 v at light) we have a partially lit Alternator light. If the idle is too low, you may also get a partially lit indicator light (12v bat - 10v alt = 2 at light)- often blipping the revs cures this one as the alternator is albe ot make more power at higher revs. You may also have heard belt squeal on older cars after starting - this is often slipping of the belt on the alternator pully, when the alternator is trying it's hardest to recharge the battery after cranking. It won't happen when the bat is charged and the car warmed up as the alternator load on the engine drops to almost insignificant. Incidentally, changing alternator pulley sizes to reduce rotation speed can often be pointless, as the regulator will just shove more current into the staor coils increase power output for those revs. It is useful however if the rev limit has been increased and you want to reduce accessory drag at higher rpm. Easy eh? more reading - http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm Sorry was meant to be a short reply, but meh. BK

Looks good! How does it run on shoot6? I think that is the dominant profile used for other DD runs posted on here. BK

Yep- it's a clip from the end of "Hi Octane 5 - Overboost". Made by Some crazy New Zealanders who realized they could get cash to support their car modding hobbies by filming stupid driving and B-grade acting scenes featuring all their mates. Not bad to watch, but not very informative either Seen the whole series- good for a laugh. Worth it for the great take off of "The Fast and Furious" in there... "I give my wife a quarter inch at a time" Some of the birds aren't bad either BK

Yep - the great "XENON" lamps trick. For those that don't know, Xenon lamps use Xenon gas in a chamber with electrodes and no filament- similar to neon tubes. Commercially they are used to light football grounds and factories etc, and are also available in the odd Honda and BMW, Merc, etc. They require a high voltage generator to drive them, an no-one has minaturized the HV circuit enough to fit in the base of a H4 globe! So unless a globe is sold with high voltage inverter (or states it requires one) its NOT Xenon anything!!! BK

Any additional benefits over a good 8/10psi custom tune? I.e. do we get rev beeper etc? BK

Hey, it appears to be an Edge Lit conventional LCD screen. From your photos the light source is on the right of the screen. You should be able to crack it open and light it with Blue LED's a-la window switches easily. Might also pay to put some on the other side to even the brightness up a bit Sounds like a good evening hack project there.... BK

Hmmm still working on it I think - the web page description says 4 piston AP racing front caliper, the clip says 6

Line convertor would be fine, but I'm after quality. Remember the amps amplify everything they get, including noise. Hmmmm. I think I'll complicate things Time for some high school algebra: You're suggestion using a line conv, I.e: Option 1: SOURCE SIGNAL(+noise) --> FORD AMP(+noise) ---> LINE CONV --> JBL AMP(+noise) = Sound Better is my preferred: Option 2: SOURCE SIGNAL(+noise) --> JBL AMP(+noise) = Sound To use numbers, say source is 10 noise is 0.1n, Line conv = 1/40 (noiseless, not quite true, but will do for illustration) and Ford Amp = 40+0.5 noise, JBL amp = 60+0.5 noise (I.e. higher output and lower noise than Ford amp) We have, in original system: (40+0.5n) x (10+0.1n) = 400 + 4n + 5n + 0.05n^2 = 400 + 9n + 0.05n^2 So signal to noise is 9/400+9 = 2.22% noise (ignoring the n^2) in the ORIGINAL setup with FORD AMP To vaugely calc noise With option 1: { [(40+0.5n) x (10+0.1n) ] x 1/40 } x (60+0.5n) = ([400 + 4n +5n + 0.05n^2] / 40) x (60+0.5n) = (10 + 0.225n + 0.00125n^2) x (60+0.5n) = 600 + 5n + 13.5n + 0.05625n^2 + 0.075n^2 + 0.000625n^3 = 600 + 18.5n + 0.13126^2 + 0.000625n^3 We have more volume, but more noise, 18.5/618.5 = 2.99% noise now (ignoring the other n^2 and n^3) And to calc noise With option 2: (60+0.5n) x (10 + 0.1n) = 600 + 6n + 5n + 0.05n^2 = 600 + 11n + 0.05n^2 Now we have same volume output as option 1, and noise of 11/611 = 1.63% noise (again, ignoring n^2). To summarise, using my approximations, ICC sound is 1% noise Factory Amp output = 2.22% noise Chained Amps + line conv (even with the lower noise JBL!) = 2.99% noise My amp from ICC direct = 1.63% noise Ofcourse this is a simplification, and YMMV. I haven't really done justice to Signal to Noise ratio calculations here, and would horrify audio engineers the world over with my fatally flawed assumption based approach. Plus it's debatable if you or I could hear 3% noise vs 1.5% noise (esp at sub woofer frequencies, with crossovers rolling of High Freq's in both it's probably nowhere near that bad). But I hope you can see what I'm getting at, and given the choice I'd rather pull the Ford amp out and connect mine direct. BK

You are right with the wiring the blue is the positive to the sub. You should be able to get an amp that takes speaker level inputs. Ian <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Is the Shielded Yellow the signal? What level is it at? I've got a JBL amp looking for a new home I'd rather use low level inputs (unamplified) than using the sub out and chaining two amps (and two sets of THD and distortion!) together. BK