CnC

I'm really amazed by some of the ill-informed opionions stated on this last page regarding EPA compliance and engineers certificates. There is no workshop that can sell you a kit and have your car remain 'street legal'. As soon as you modify the car the onus is on you to have the car engineered to ensure compliance - no workshop can do this for you. As APS has stated (several) times mind you, they have had their kits tested in the various states of tune for emissions compliance. This is quite an expensive test, at least $10,000 to $20,000 if memory serves me correctly. Now APS have basically saved you needing to spend the same amount of money to prove that your car still meets these emissions standards, and you are having a go at them for it? It really amazes me..

Yes the Redcliffe Dyno & Performance kit uses the TSI and it also uses the DNA motorsports intercooler. Its a good kit and Steves a good bloke, good alternative to the other kits around, especially for those in QLD.

Do some research on this forum, there are plenty of posts relating to modification options, you will find what you need.

$895 including installation if my memory serves me correctly. If they were available seperately, I'm sure they would advertise them as such.

Mine is making the horrible whining noise, and is slipping anywhere between 500-1500rpm between gear changes, and also in a steady state cruise, which I would assume means the clutches are definitely rooted.

So you hadnt modified your car at that stage ??

Geea, what sort of state was your transmission in when you sent it in for the rebuild? I have a feeling that mine may be a little far down the 'rooted' path for salvage..

I would be very interested in an auto that can handle that sort of power, as I have bit of a hunger for power and extreme driving If they can do me a performance box for 4 grand including all your stuff I would be pretty happy I'll give C&V a call tommorow and see what they have to say about it.

I'd say this is a reflection of the quality and engineering of the various offerings. You can either have backyard hack style, or OEM like quality, your choice

I dont know about 'bending it' but if you port it out, the wastegate can be upgraded to handle more flow, which means that you can control higher boost levels. GCG turbochargers do the maching of the turbine housing for around $80-100 from my discussion with them, with around a 2 day turnaround time.

Yea I have a feeling that mine may be gone, but I am willing to investigate my options. Unfortunately the car is stuck in Victoria and I live in Canberra, so Northmead probably arent an option. Do you know whether the box was rebuilt for performance or just to rebuild the box to standard? Hopefully OwnaXr6T can shed some light on the matter. I am tempted to save my dosh for a few months and make the leap to a 6 speed manual. If anyone here has an experience with this, please let me know.

No it isnt a warranty thing. Basically I have 280kw @ wheels, and I've had over 220kw @ wheels for the last 25,000km. The transmission is basically dead, it is slipping and flaring everywhere, and I can barely accelerate at all. The massive torque of the engine, and the fact that I am running Nitto 275/40/17 street slicks on the car has meant that the transmission has become the weakest link..

I am interested if anyone has any idea as to the price of a auto transmission rebuild? Mine has basically sh*t itself so I require either a new box or to fix my existing one. As you can imagine im not happy at the moment

Bah stop whinging

I'd love to get an auto upgrade but I think mine is already buggerred.

What are they doing to the auto *exactly*?

C&V use Northmead auto for all their transmission work. CRD also use Northmead from time to time. Personally I'm still looking forward to what APS manage to come up with as I'm sure it will be a well engineered reliable solution as always. Thanks, Kris.

I can imagine that the solution will be to use 12 injectors, rather than 6 'large' injectors, due to the tuning resolution available with the unichip interceptor module.

Geaa.. good work...........

Good information.

Yea 3000 would be a decent compromise between extreme driveability and outright performance, 3500 would be more of a drag convertor as witnessed with the C&V car.

3500rpm stall you say - just look at the C&V car, enough said.

I would suggest a 2500rpm convertor is a waste of time considering that the standard convertor is 2200rpm. I would suggest getting at least a 3000rpm convertor, otherwise you are just wasting your money. Personally I would go for a 3500rpm convertor and a beefed up auto transmission cooler to go along with it.

You might notice 1 or 2 degrees reduction in inlet temperatures, whether this is enough for you to spend the required money is your decision

They would still book you for 'street racing' regardless of whether you were over the speed limit or not. Regards, Kris.