Bad Apples

Ahhh, this takes me back... I went from an XE ute (8th hand) to (new) a BA F6 ute... THAT was a good day Cheers.

Yeah. Not a professional effort by any means but I did it myself, in about 20 hours, with help, with beers and etcetera towards knock off time each day. But you guys know better. Chris.

A: 16 hours with someone who has done it before.

Lawsy, love reading your stuff.... If you could indulge me a little, I have a question. What is your opinion of the Fuchs engine oil range? http://www.fuchs.com.au/categories.asp?cID=9 Specifically the supersyn 5w40? (that's what I chose) Superficially I can tell you that the oil pressure is Very high at startup, which makes me think that a 0w might be okay... Also at hot perhaps a little pressure might be okay, and at low revs (in traffic ect). Thanks, Chris.

Hi I was faced with a similar issue... so here is what I went with. A 4 channel class AB amp mounted on the wall behind the driver, a D class for the sub squished behind the center console (it just happens to fit perfectly), and a ported isobaric subby behind the drivers seat. I can't put the seat all the way back, but that's by design because I prefer it a bit forward so I just made the box square and the appropriate size... So I used most of the the space behind the drivers seat, which is not useful for storage anyway (bugger to get at when your in the drivers seat). The only downside to this is that the sound is not the same for the passenger, in my setup it is very different, but you may have better luck.... I still have all the space behind the passenger for storage, which is enough for me. Anyway just one take on a common problem Good luck...

I disagree and am prepared to contibute $50. All laboratory tests are, by design, different to real world applications. We do this in order to reduce the number of variables. so we don't simulate the valves and how their pressure shockwaves propagate around the plenum. I assume we can measure the flow in and out to each individual runner simultaneously? The things that I would like to see varied is flow rate (say 20lb/min and then a 60lb/min) and maybe heat the air in so we can have a dense air vs hot air comparison. For me I would mostly be interested in the plenum that provided the most even distribution to each cylinder, under all these conditions rather than which one acheives the peak flow in any one cylinder in any one test. Still don't think it'll happen... Cheers.

I'd be surprised if you cant find a tool to have a lend of here somewhere......

yeah. 1. Governments require a lot of stuff to meet ADRs 2. If a new car doesn't have aircon or 12 chanel stability control, and 10 airbags it won't sell. Track cars are completely different to road cars. This is more true than it was in 1968. Cheers, Chris.

cool. I'm in Launceston, but I'd be in a cruise. I have a fair bit on june - july, but lemme know if something gets organised. Cheers, Chris.

Hi there, I had the actuator clip come off. and it was exactly like you describe. The actuator wasn't connected. Check that. You should be able to see if it's connected by getting underneath, but putting it back on might be easier is you remove the turbo, 2 hour job on a hoist. cheers, Chris.

well, I must be a bit on my own here. I have a BA tornado, and fitted bilsteins, valved by Quadrant suspension in Vic, who were recommended to me by some ex rally guys. I'd like to know the differences in valving compared to those who claim significant improvements. Anyway I would say that the improvement is okay. I had expected more. Also the pre-load on the front springs seems to be a bit more, and now the front sits about 10mm higher, which I don't like. Anyway if anyone wants a set of BA tornado shocks, lemme know. Cheers, Chris.

What changes can we expect for a 0.5 to 0.7 Comp cover change?

Could someone let us know where the ASL trigger comes from. I want to be able to turn the amps on when the factory head unit is switched one. at the moment I have the cig lighter, which is triggered with the key. also it would be cool to turn the amps off when car is on but the head unit switched off. I thought that maybe the power for the lcd backlight could be used to trigger a transistor, it might now work direct as it's dimmable, so obviously the voltage can vary. Anyone please? I have no dramas with removing the head unit I have already done the pre-amp out mod. Cheers.

That gadget you linked to isn't the best way to go, for you. if you get one of those, you still need to run an amp anyway, so you might as well get an amp that has speaker level inputs and splice into your rear speakers. If you choose an amp that has a low pass filter (only plays bass), that would be much better also. From there your next best option is to upgrade the actual speakers (all 6) (and probably run a passive crossover on the rears since you already have a sub there). Then I ran the front and rear speakers levels to an amp, which gave better volume, albeit same quality. Finally getting The pre-amp outputs from the stock headunit has given me quite a good sound. If I were to do it all again. I would skip the speaker level into the amps, go straight for the pre-amp outputs option. Anyway for now I think an amp would suit you. One that has all these features: http://clarion.com/au/en/products/2009/aud...2419833340.html Cheers, Chris.

lil grey bf, Your problem is that the speaker level inputs for your amp expect that the negative side on the speaker level outputs from the head unit is at ground potential. It isn't when the unit on or the key is on both speaker level wires get raised to about 6V, and are driven symetrically around this to drive the speakers. This is not a terrible this as I use this characteristic as a switch to turn my amps on, even with the key off. There are two options, what I have done as an interim fix is to use isolating transformers/ ground loop isolators(same thing), the other is to do the ASL/ preamp RCA output mod, which DOES have the -ve side tied to earth potential. bjc, I would re-instate the earth strap and simply run big cables from the original battery terminals to the battery in the boot only, no other earthing or anything. You might have already tried this. Cheers, Putrid.

I would definately not do rods without doing pistons. Although I had the factory FPV rods, one of them as a bit bent, and a piston in another cylinder lost a chunk at the top ring land. Although there was a fault on the cylinder, I dont think the stock pistons offer that much head room. I also belieive that nizpro use a longer rod to improve the rod/stroke ratio so won't suit standard pistons. It looks like they are out anyway as then won't sell you them unless then do the work, and since you are looking for a low cost rebuild, they are not your answer. Cheers, Chris.

About the ABS... Mine was quite bad, at the FPV track day, the instructor was at the end of the main straight, jumped on the brakes and promptly asked "what the hell is with your brakes?"! Anyway I fitted the nolathane bush kit for the control arms, and it's a massive improvement. same brakes. ride is noticably harsher on shlte roads, though. Cheers, Chris.

Hi all. I have a tornado, and am not at all happy with the diff moving about. There is nothing to locate it! Do the XR's have a watts linkage or something? Is there anything available made to suit? I'm actually considering importing a mustang watts linkage kit from the US! As an aside I saw in the nolathane catalouge, in the section for the leaf spring BA, a part number for the diff locating rod. What is this is it?just bushes, do the RTV's or wagons have something? Any help appreciated. Cheers, Chris.

Brad at boost Automotive in Invermay Launceston is very good. They charge pretty well so I wouldn't waste their time (and your money) for minor works. Cheers.

straughsberry, Would it be possible for you to check the resistances of the coils both primary side and accross the coil (end to end). I thought that I had some a bad one, so tested them all and they checked OK. cant remember exactly the readings maybe 8 Ohm and 15K? but they all tested the same. My issue turned out to be something else, so all fixed now anyway it would be good if you could confirm that a resistance test will find a bad coil or 2. Cheers, Chris.

I'm up for a surge tank and pump to suit the ute. CHEERS.

I have the BA FPV PBR standard brakes (325mm front rotors) , and cebco knew the measurements, so I expect they know what is required for the whole range. Anyway email 'em, that much wont cost you anything.

Hi I got mine from Cebco brakes, they are on the interweb somewhere, http://www.cebcobrakes.com.au/ their service was good and they assured me they are ADR compliant. Didn't make much difference to my actual brakes, though..... Cheers, Chris.

Hi all. Would these be the same (and recommended) for a Tornado? Cheers, Chris.

Ok Then, Bang for buck and in this order. 1. Tune 2. Injectors 3. Dump & cat (do these together) 4. Fuel pump/ Surge. Go as far as you want in this order until your budget runs out.... All these mods can be fitted well to a stock engine and can be chosen to support mid 400rwKW without needing to be upgraded again. At this stage- mid to low 300rwKW - more power is risky to conrods/ Pistons. If this were not an issue, more power is available through intake mods. (better intercooler, reduce piping). Improved drivability, respone and economy is available just by doing intake mods, but A tuner will be extremely responsible in limiting the power/ boost characteristics to something the stock engine can handle. Anyway let us know what you decide to do and what actual results you get Cheers, Chris.