Bad Apples

WTF? I bought the driver side for over $300?

Bump? Is there something more I should add?

Hi All. I currently run BA camshafts in a 698 atomic engine. I'd like to ask people experiences with the larger camshafts for a daily driver, taking into account idle torque (for taking off discreetly at 6:30 am), and fuel economy. I expect the BF cams give a significant improvement in power (based on the specs, and tuning results), but good economy (given they are factory fitted). What about the next size up? -I.e. atomic stage 3 and Crowcams #3231393? Then there are crowcams 3232562, which is larger, but aimed at NA, so may aid off boost performance... The next size up is atomic stage 4. Do they produce usable torque near idle? There is an opportunity to fit larger camshafts in the near future, but retain standard exhaust manifold and turbo. The exhaust is CES 3.5" turbo back. The intake is process west race airbox. nizpro 'original' intercooler and process west throttle body re-location. Only 1 round of (engine) upgrades to go, .. GTX 4294 (1.01 turbine A/R) on a 6boost style manifold - so bear in mind I'd like the final configuration to suit, as a daily driver. Other relavent information is that being a BA I have the BA ecu, I do not expect this to be a limitation but I understand the newer ones are better... Please share your experiences Cheers, Chris.

will it work on the BA? OBD 2 I believe.., but a slower interface at the plug in port... If it does work count me in on a group buy. Cheers, Chris.

I have one. I'll clean and oil it for you. gone to a pod filter. would you like it? $50 + postage Cheers, Chris

Yeah, I had a set of the advans and they were very very good. I've settled on teh sdrive for slightly longer wear and am happy with them for now... maybe go back to advans if A go over 400. Cheers, Chris.

Intercooler hotside is good... :)

Gloo is correct, have a look here: TurboByGarrett.com - catalog Cheers, Chris.

Ah well. It's all been done before. Tacoma Narrows Bridge - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Thanks mate. Its the PBR brakes on teh none brembo Tornado, so... this profile: [url=http://www.bendix.com.au/user_uploaded_files/Catalogue/BrakeProfilePDFs/7599_Inner_Outer.pdf]http://www.bendix.com.au/user_uploaded_files/Catalogue/BrakeProfilePDFs/7599_Inner_Outer.pdf[/url] Anyway it's the fronts I'm interested in, but no rush. If it's all good I'll be in the group buy! Cheers, Chris.

I'd be in a set of the pads... Only, what is a set? Front only or all around? I have a ute so the rear is different. Is that a problem? cheers, Chris.

HI Gents. I would like to put a watts link in the ute. So can someone tell me what the roll centre height is for the front, and any suggestions as to the ideal roll centre for the rear? Cheers, Chris.

G'day. I had stock for the first 30K, then 297 for another 50k since then I've done 30K at 311. when I inspected the clutch about 10k ago, it was approximately 60% worn, and still feels good. at this power level, in a ute, a hard launch usually spins the wheels, but I do occasionally push along for 15 minutes or so of continuous driving. clutch holds up better than the brakes. But I think for 350+ I'll go 20% heavier pressure plate and OEM plates again. Cheers, Chris.

's cool. I'd like to edit my post but I think there is a timeout thing.. feel free to delete my quote and just leave the links. To the OP: I use nulon 10W40 fully synthetic and change every 7500. I on a cold start the oil pressure is about 3/4 (375kpa). scale and at 2000 rpm cruising when warm it sits about 200kpa. this is OK. at idle when warm it sits about 120kpa, which is marginal pressure when HOT (after a fang) it sits below 200 at about 3000rpm. this is probably not ideal. so for ideal delivery on start up Ipersonally would be looking for 5w (I live in tassie so it's a bit cooler here..) and to lessen the effect of high temp and oil cooler would be best but perhaps a 50W might be OK as an alternative. so overall I should run a 5W50... but the only one I know of is mobil and it's expensive.... I believe the 15W40 factory recommendation is comprimise based on semi-synthetic and a comprimise with the ford australia contract. Cheers, Chris.

No. This is backwards. HowStuffWorks "Measuring Motor Oil Viscosity" Motor oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia http://www.racq.com.au/motoring_advice/about_your_car/car_factsheets/understanding_engine_oil_designations multigrade engine oil weights - Google Search Chris.

Hi. I have an atomic built engine. It weeps oil, and I'm in tassie so I'm not about to rip it out and send it back. There was some logistic issues but Brad, (their customer service front man) was extremely helpful so at least they made every effort after the cock up. As for the engine itself... Seems OK. (I have the 698KW spec). Cheers, Chris.

well.. that is average to hight Km's for that car, so there aren't many hard and fast rules established for these cars. 100,000 seems to be a ballpark for the turbo though, so if you are in time, just a new cartridge for that... $1300. The trouble is in modded cars - is the build sustainable ... - the one you propose has a sensible mix of performance and reliability stuff (plenum and valve springs.. ect.) The clutch may offer some insight.. is this the first clutch replacement? how long has it had over 300RWKW? if it has had more than 260RWKW for more than 25K and this is the first clutch then it probably has been driven in a fashion that is likely to prolong engine life.... what proof can you get... maybe none. what's to say they aren't hiding the 3 clutch rebuilds from 40,000 to 100,000 K? Given the owner has gone about some performance and looks mods, what have they done about brakes? In my opinion a balanced build to over 300 rwkw would include brakes, and you have not mentioned a brake upgrade, to prolong the longevity of both the car and the occupants... Anyway good-luck on your buying journey. :-) Cheers, Chris.

Nice. I have build 115 BA tornado. Does anyone know how many BA tornados were built? Cheers, Chris

Not really.... The smaller volume of the stock intercooler actually helps reduce lag. the issue it that one it has heated up, it's not very good at cooling the air to the intake. dyno runs show this, so the intercooler heats up after about 15 seconds. if you only want to give it a 15 second squirt every 5 minutes, it's probably not too much of an issue. However! the improved piping and intercooler kits available all flow better (less pressure drop for a given flow) so the turbo doesn't have to work as hard to deliver any given pressure to the throttle body, this mean better throttle response, better peak power and at any given boost, the intake air isn't heated as much, so the intercooler has to do less! (who'd have thought a bigger intercooler might result in less heat rejection!). So the advantages are significant... But if you can't justify the coin, just be aware of limitation of the equipment you have. I recommend getting the work you have suggested. If you get bitten by the mod bug you won't have to re-purchase anything but dyno time - and that's a pretty small expense. Cheers, Chris.

Those mods should see you land exactly in the range you are aiming for. Cheers, Chris.

My current one leaks - I'd like to buy... Who do I contact? Cheers, Chris

Hi, good choice. I paid about 1300 for the 4 for the ute. Delivered. cheers, Chris.

Oil cooler.

[quote name='xr6turboman' date='06 October 2009 - 09:23 AM' timestamp='1254785025' post='940283'] How about a Under battery intake or 4" and battery relocation group buy?? would be a brilliant idea [/quote]