XRfury

Same mod fits both cars and has the same effect. Call Exotic Exhaust and they'll send one to you for the ute. ← So does removing the centre muffler mod apply to the exhaust they put on the utes, because I think the exhaust might be different to the one on the phoon... (The rear muffler is different?) As for traction control, yeah it works great, but it dosen't help you off the line when it kills all your power to stop the wheels spinning.

Here is a photo of the beast....

Howdy, Sold the turbs and bought a new tornado.... Deja Vu, 19's, 6 pot brembo's, sports sterring wheel, hard tonneau cover, dcc and already put a KnN in it... Had it bout 2 weeks now and I'm still getting used to the great lack of traction in the back compared to the sedan turbs... but I'm not complaining I had the centre muffler removed from the sedan I had and just loved the throaty sound. Is there a cheap mod I can do to the exhaust on the F6 to get the same volume??

Howdy Finally got round to removing the centre muffler today and replacing it with pipe, and also replaced the oval tip with two round tips. Looks great and sounds bloody great too. I know a lot of the guys on this forum have had it done but I didnt expect the car to sound this good!!! Goes to show how much that centre muffler does. Would recommend it to anyone looking for a cheap mod. Total cost $150

Just wondering if the removal of the centre muffler is illegal as don't you need to have two mufflers for it to be roadworthy, or is it soley based on noise and not how many mufflers you have??? A lot of guys/gals seem to have done this mod

Wow, I'm assuming you get 570-590 per tank with majority highway work??? I'm flat out getting 400 around town and about 500-550 on highway with my stock T (5sp man) running with BP ult (98) or Vortex (95). <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I get those km's pretty much round town runs.. Home to work etc and off to shops etc and including the odd flog. I got 2003 Auto and drive it normal Auto ( Not using adaptive shift ) On about 10.5l/100 Hightest ive seen mine go upto is 12.1 and that was after a floggin on the cruise cikas <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I wonder if the 2nd CAI and KnN filter is the fuel saving factor here......

Wow, I'm assuming you get 570-590 per tank with majority highway work??? I'm flat out getting 400 around town and about 500-550 on highway with my stock T (5sp man) running with BP ult (98) or Vortex (95).

Just a quick note - the car IS totally stock with no mods whatsoever. I have wanted to do some mods but have had too many troubles to bother with them, and quite frankly if I am having so many troubles now I hate to think what will happen with a few extra kw's.....

However, whilst it was in I got a loan of a Typhoon. I was expecting a very agricultural drive-line (my T is an auto) but it was excellent! - No whine, no clunks and felt very, very good. This did restore my faith in Ford or at least until I noticed my new vibration :rokon: <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Wow - you were actually given a typhoon to drive around in - gotta be happy with that. All I have managed is a stock BA and a fiesta - BLOODY CRIMINAL But I spose that's what you get for being up north....

By the way, does anyone know how much would it cost to strengthen the current auto and would I be better off going for a ute so to eliminate problems with the IRS in the sedans????

Well I got the new drive shafts fitted today and the clunking noises have almost disapeared... now it's really noticeable that the diff is clunking and whirring loudly again. So instead of continually taking this car back to the dealer with problem after problem I decided to bite the bullet and splurge on a newie (shucks all these problems I've had and I still want another of the buggers :rokon: ) So now I'm in a dilema about which car to buy, 6 or 8, man or auto??? I figure the T56 is a much better box however I still might have problems with the pissweak clutch. I've also been told the auto hasn't lived up to its hipe and is also pissweak. Either way I spose I still will have problems with the diff??? Any advice I could get from you guys would be greatly appreciated!! P.S. I have heard a rumour that Jaguar will be fitting out the falcons next year with a 6-speed auto?????

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing, and do not assume such a place will have a big blue oval on the front of the shed. Your clunk is almost certainly a combination of clutch hub damage and backlash in half shaft CV joints. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks for your replies I know there is always the option of taking the car somewhere else to be repaired with other performance parts, however, while the car is under warranty I don't see why I should have to pay for these parts for the car to be running in good order. In fact, I'm sure there will be a lot of unhappy T owners out there when these cars do run out of warranty and owners will have to start paying to fix problems that have been occuring since it rolled out the yard. What reccomendations could you make in regards to clutches and diffs if I do decide to repair it with non-genuine and how much cost would be involved??

I have had my T (5 sp manual) for two years now and have had trouble with the car (mainly driveline) from about 5k. I have had the diff replaced once, the rear suspension bushes three times, the rear frame replaced (apparently it was cracked when trying to remove a set of bushes) and I am due to have the drive shafts done this week. All this work has been done to try and combat rear clunking noises however after each fix the problem is either still there or reappears shortly after. Apparently the clutch is also on the way out (pedal stiffness at 25000k) and will not be covered by warranty???? In addition to these problems I also have a idle dipping problem which has been since word go, which they still can't figure out. For a brand new car with only 35k on the clock this just seems unbelieveable to me to have so many problems. Are all these problems common with this vehicle?? According to the dealer it's just manufacturing defects??? I have been wanting to do some mods on the car for a long time now but don't want to risk voiding the warranty with all the problems I've had and it's really me off!!! Would getting an auto solve my problems???