cobramad

Nuthing.

Its really for those of us without a real life...Facebook that is..!

J's have faded badly...not the real alternative they used to be, fearless and confronting. Sad really cos whats left? Lets hope for a revival of sorts.

Pat.

Tango..

Formal..

When you need more hardware to go faster, Plazmaman are also well worth a look, with packages from mild to full-house. Alex is very helpful too.

If things are as they used to be, the SuperPro bushes offered reduced NVH over the Nolathane product whilst still doing a great job of keeping things in the correct location. After using lots of both product, the SuperPro branded bushes are just a little more compliant and smooth, perfect for those who are after a factory feel with increased durability. Just offering my experiences with both products..

Weagles had as good a run with no injuries as Freek-mantle did with injuries. They overachieved last year but a few of their stars are also ageing eg Glass, Cox, . Worsfold is good at managing his older charges so they may surprise a few. Want the Hawks to give them a fair belting at home though!

ha ha ha...keep em coming! Dont fark with Chuck!

There are now aftermarket front diff bushes available from Nolathane Part #49197, and if you or your mechanic is keen, they are able to be fitted without removing the diff or suspending the engine. Simply unbolt the front diff and slide it sideways away from the mounts, carefully cut away the rubber and the steel original bush "shell" and follow the instructions for fitting the new bushes. The new Nolathane bushes are in two halves with a steel tube insert and can be slid into position then tightened up securely. It has been done on the ground with the vehicle securely supported on stands, with the LHF wheel off and caliper removed and tied up out of the way, but would be much easier on a hoist. Remember to orientate the new bushes correctly as per the instructions and you're away. So far, there has been little feedback if there is any massive diffference in NVH, but anything would be better than flogged out original bushes upsetting front drive shaft pinion angles etc. So, this method allows for a more cost effective way of fixing the weak factory bushings without huge cost involved. Hopes this helps.And always, if you are unsure, get a quote from your mechanic and be safe. Should still be heaps cheaper than it used to be.

You will find your F6X has the same "big" turbo that was used on all turbo 6's, barring the transition to FG. Ford downsized the turbo on FG, only the FPV's got the previously mentioned big turbo. This is of course assuming you dont have a custom housing lurking around somewhere.. he he he

Bahamas

After a fully hectic festive season, I finally bit the bullet last Saturday and fitted the new Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump. Having to remove the fuel tank AGAIN was not the nicest way to begin the next round of mods and retuning, but unfortunately necessary in this case. The new pump is exactly the same dimensionally as the old shagged Walbro making the change-out more simple than the original swap. It is now heaps quieter than the dying Walbro and so onwards to a retune with more boost. I jury-rigged a boost gauge and wedged it into the console for a reference when tuning so its time for the fun part to start all over again. Software, private closed road and AFR gauge and away we go! Here are a few pics of the job. http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p534/cobramad/TerritoryFuelPumpPics/

ha ha ha.. You've missed your calling Arron!

Wolves mate, beware the wolves (and the moon.)!

Checked the factory manual and all AWD Territories up to SY2 have 3.46 final drive ratios. RWD Territories have 3.73 ratio. Perhaps you are confusing the first gear ratio of the ZF 6speed autos, which have a 4.1 ratio?

Final drive in the Turbos is 3.46 front and rear. Makes getting 2+tonne off the line a little easier but first gear goes real quick.

The sad thing is that after all the hard work replacing bushes that fail, you end up with more of the same bushes, which for those of you who have seen and felt them, are very compliant and soft. While this means little NVH, they would soon go the same way as the original bushes. Im not saying that this method of filling the voids is the be-all or end-all of repairs, its just trying a different approach to solve a rather large problem. Nolathane actually sell special void-filling bushes for the rear diff, it wont be long before they have the same for the front bushes. Unfortunately for me, its now a replacement job if and when the Sika-filled bushes fail completely.I will try to find a few pics, lets hope they are on this computer.

Revenue (consolidated!)

If its family-friendly, I'd like to bring my tribe along for a look see..

Ba and BF throttle body assemblies are interchangeable, borrow one if you can and see if it helps. Check if you have any vacuum leaks, hoses missing or fallen off or loose. Look along inlet manifold gasket for leaks too. Map sensors different from Turbo to N/A. Hope this helps mate. Mal K

Tigers 9th on percentage, come finals time...but at least they have a decent go, and may have enough to do both Greater Western and Gold Coast.... Maybe?!?

Ba/Bf front springs are not easy or safe to compress without the correct type of compressor tool. We use a Bremick wall-mounted unit that cost heaps but is very safe even for long and strong coil springs. Safest way if you dont have an appropriate spring compressor is just take the strut and standard spring and get a suspension place to swap them over for you. Its then a simple task to re-fit the strut back into your car. Rears are fine, fronts are dangerous if you are ill-equipped and maybe a bit inexperienced. Not trying to criticise you, but just be really careful if you give it a go yourself as there is lots of stored energy in that strut. Hate to hear of anyone getting hurt doing that job.

Smokescreen.