GTjake

The Traction, Tread wear and Temperature ratings on tyres come from a US Federally mandated test regime. If the tyres are to be sold in the US, they must have them. Traction is an artificial WET traction test where the tyre is run through basically a large puddle (cant remember the speed though). It is a measure of resistance to aquaplaning. Temperature is a measure of the tyres resistance to damage caused by continuous high speed running. It is tested by mounting on a machine which spins the tyre at various speeds and internal pressures against a rough roller which varies in surface temperature. The force of the roller vs tyre can be changed too. Therefore a 2000kg car doing 160kmh for 6 hours in the Arizona desert at 85* road temp with a slightly underinflated tyre can be simulated if required. Of course the test is actually standardised. The tread wear is also from an artificial testing method using computer driven machines. It is used more as a measure of tread hardness rather than mileage.

The Electronic Brake-force Distribution system should compensate at least to a degree for an improved / changed brake set up, shouldnt it? BTW Do BAs even have a brake bias valve given that they have ABS + EBD both of which are controlled / varied in real time?

Think? I doubt it.

WTF would someone spend $1 more than RRP on a PRE-SALE ITEM especially when the end date on the auction is FARKIN RELEASE DATE! My God people are stupid......

Gday mate. Depends on what you want done. Suspension? Brakes? Exhaust? Dyno? etc etc

NO! NO! NO! NO! Absolute farken rubbish and a total con. Please dont waste you money on this. Spend it on strippers, at least youd enjoy wasting the cash then.

So, whats getting deleted? Just sledging? And 'yo momma....' comments?

Mine stays on all the time (as long as as ignition is on).

Get the lightest wheels you can afford. Saving eg 10kg on the wheels is reckoned to be the equal to at least 30kg off the body. How much you want to spend making a big-ass car lighter? Or do you mean just by getting rid of bits?

Maybe they get a special car. Hand tuned by HRT or something.

that's a nice looking car you got there. Good to have another V8 around here. These turbo boys think they own the damn place. Oh. They do.

How's it made: He says billet, hydroformed AND pressed! I can see him having hydroforming gear somehow. Looks just like a HKS / trust / GReddy type plenum. Whos gonna buy one and test it out?

<4.5 secs ! oooh baby! sounds good to me. That was with street tyres? 3.? secs to 100 is astounding. I never realised they were that fast. Maybe I shoulda bought that Typhoon after all.....

4.5 secs to 100? Farken 'ell. that's quick. This is going to be interesting........ BTW Is there a way to estimate 0-100 times from 1/4-mile times?

You're right they could grow that. Enough people gonna buy it? What about export? Not that simple is it?

Agree, 'dry' car wash is NFG for the paint. Farmers have got to grow something or no food and no exports. Actually meat production (slaughtering etc) uses far more water per kg. Industry pays less for water than agriculture dont they?

Unfortunately, fine steel mesh wouldnt be strong enough to hold the fibreglass together in an impact unless it was quite 'closed', as in very small holes and lots of wires. Then the problem (assuming the mesh was strong enough) would be bonding the mesh into the 'glass. The wire mesh would prevent the layers of 'glass mat touching, leaving only the resin to fill the mesh holes. Polyester resin (standard fibreglassing resin) is a very poor adhesive unless it can bond chemically as well as mechanically (as in to polyester or vinylester resin or gel coat). I figure in a bad enough impact where you would really be wanting the mesh to work, the bonnet would split into layers where the mesh was. Using epoxy laminating resin would fix this, but I dont think the AWC/Aggressor bonnets are made using epoxy or cloth. Likely just chopped fibreglass mat in polyester laminating resin.

OH I can fully understand you not wanting to be the one to find out first hand ! This is why a properly done carbon / kevlar / core (foam or honeycomb) would be so much better than a fiberglass (with or without carbon skin). In an impact the the front catch and hinges would hold but the bonnet would crush irrepairably absorbing a huge amount of energy (much more than a metal one). But it would hold together because of the kevlar interlayer/s. In effect it would be a very lightweight crumple zone. BTW If you've seen F1 car crash, youve seen how kevlar allows the the whole structure to absorb the crash energy by 'sacrificing' itself and the way it holds the pieces together afterwards. The core contributes too, depending on thickness and material (foam is better than phenolic honeycomb for instance). Carbon by itself explodes on impact into shards and dust without absorbing enough energy to protect the driver.

Does anyone actually know of a case where a fibreglass panel has done anything like that? Corvettes have had fibreglass panels since they were first made and they arent even made from fibreglass cloth, just chopped strands. Still have FRP panels now too (though more advanced resin and manufacturing processes). GM wouldnt expose itself to massive liability like that if there was doubt about the material. And, yes I realise GMs testing is a little more thorough. Ive never seen an AWC bonnet so I cant really comment on how well designed / built they are from an impact point of view, but fibreglass isnt a weak material when done right. More advanced composites are used already as actual impact structures in cars, aircraft etc.

Nice try but they still dont want you to play with their computer codes. Any word on when they want me to have a supercharger? Hopefully before my warranty expires so they'll fit it for free! You can buy electrical wire too. Doesnt mean Powercor want you monkeying with the streetlights.

Pilot sports come from 2 factories. The good ones come from Europe (France I think they are made). The other ones come from the Michelin factory in Thailand. They are the same price but about 1/2 to 1/3 as good. Different machines, crappy labour and different compounds I believe. I wanted to buy a set last year but they wanted a non-refundable deposit and said basically "nah mate you dont want the Thai sh*t! You want the real ones for that money!" but when asked which would I be getting just shrugged and said "dunno mate. whatever turns up." Mind you, I'm standing there cash in hand to pay for these things and they tell me that I have to accept a $2500+ f*ck-up if that's what turns up! I gave up after no-one I spoke to would guarentee (in writing) the right ones would be fitted. Bloody idiots.

Wow that's a bloody good wear rating for traction like that! Whats the PS2 Cup like in comparison to these? Any one used those? O any R-spec tyres? I take it you've got the good PS2 from europe rather than the crap they thailand ones they try to peddle for the same price. Anyway enjoy the g-forces you'll get with em!

Where the hell to you buy a rocket car? And how do you stop one?