IH8TOADS

Have you got the shifter working yet? The shifter doesn’t seem that tall and the center consol looks like it maybe in the way. I was thinking the Bremer Shifter was too tall, but it’s actually at s height where I can rest comfortably on the consol. Got me thinking if the S1 was a little short?

Carbon looks awesome! You have a new T-56 magnum in yours yeah?

No point comparing as Bremer don’t make that design anymore. Mine was literally the last one. S1 have been pumping them out. I went with Bremer as they are easy as to fit, I like the longer lever and it’s adjustable. Throw is as short as you could get it I reckon. It’s pretty good and would be great with faceplated gears.

Same run from the other angle.

Dude, I almost had you! 😛

If the car makes the 400km drive, I’m in 😆. Let’s hope the skinny rods hold up for another year.

You’ll probably need 1000hp for 300km/hr anyway so the other stuff really isn’t a worry for most entrants. It’s not cheap though.

Ok...who entered!? I've signed up, will see if I actually go next year as I was kinda going to have a year off.

Pm me your email and I’ll send you the file

PCMtec is a breath of fresh air in the Ford tuning world. Finally getting some prayers answered after quite a few stagnant years!

If it’s manual you just use the diff ratio. Ie axle rpm x diff ratio = engine rpm. There is no slip with a manual so it’s easy as and precise.

Yeah it’s affected by diff, gearbox ratio and slip. Even locked up the ZF has 2% slip. So it’s not accurate like you can calculate with a manual in 1:1 ratio. Find ZF graphs of the same gear (Ie 4th)and then divide the derived rpm by axle rpm and then average this for different rpm values above 4000rpm. Use this ratio for your own car. so say your axle rpm is 1400 and your conversion ratio from other graphs is 3.1 then the engine rpm is approximately 1400x3.1=4340

Awesome work. The t-MAP switch-a-roo is pretty cool!!

Just an observation and I could be wrong (but doubt it haha), however I’m pretty sure they have got the t-map sensor scaling wrong in their base tune. I’m 99% sure the stock t-MAP uses the Bosch characteristic curve 1, whereas Haltech appear to have based their scaling on curve 2 (0.5 & 4.5v). If you reverse calculate from Ford’s scaling they definitely use curve 1 (0.4 & 4.65v). It won’t make a bees dick of difference unless you tune it on the 2.5 bar and then later move to a 3+ bar and input the correct scaling.

I had a cast TO4z wheel on my manual and it was ok, a tad laggy. I have the same size billet wheel now but in the form of a EFR9180 (1.05 rear) and it’s mint. A billet 67mm will be fine, heaps of people use them. You would struggle to hold 30psi at the top end with a 67mm, wouldn’t be ideal anyway.