FiftyOne

You should probably think about a ZF tbh. The 6HP26 is a very common box in a lot of Europen builds so knowledge, parts etc are easy to come by. Plus, they are more common. just sayn

Expensive Daewoo are doing what ford never had the balls to do; build ridiculous cars that are price unjustified, not to make money, but show everyone the mad sh*t that can be done. Everyone wants to test drive the gts-r, and they'll leave driving the omega. No it doesn't make sense, but that's the point when you buy these cars. Imagine if ford built a HO or coupe. People would be loosing their sh*t

Great to hear that issues done & dusted Phil. Sounds even simpler than I expected it to be for you in the end

I wish I had a girlfriend as dirty as that engine

#turbolyfe

^ This guy knows. So do I.

Sweet merciful Jesus, thank Christ that's over. Your ever strong persistence has paid off again Phil

the turbo itself sits further back, so when you need to need to bend a 4/5 inch pipe down to miss other things in the bay (steering shaft for example) it gets a little tighter. Where the stock cat flange is in relation to a B series I'm not sure

No it doesn't. The flange to turbo is further rearward on the FG so the whole turbo sits a little further back in the bay. Same T3 flanges though

By chance I've come across a supplier in Melbourne that supposedly have a heap in stock. Going to chase that up. If it's a green light I'll buy two I think, glue one up and install it

So I grabbed a drill and an old set of injectors tonight, bored them out, installed them and it didn't fix my issue. So I went a bit deeper. Below are the tell tail signs of some sort of cooling system failure. Before even opening the system there was an unhealthy green sheen under everything rearward of my issue Looking around I expected it to be a clamp on one of the lines to the trans cooler I had replaced over a year ago. Unfortunately not the case. I had trouble getting an image but I could see the highest point of the leak was around the black case of the heater tap So I had to remove it all and its probably an easier job to drop the K frame than reach in with everything in position. But I wasn't doing that so I suffered. The biggest issue is the bunny ear clips. they are in the most tucked away places & also with the ears facing the wrong way! There was just physically no way I could get at them. The gearbox side is simple enough with the steel quick clips just needing to be removed to pop them off. Funny as before I saw exactly how it was I thought they might be the bigger issue. One hose with a worm drive; Quick couple off; The other pipes I simply couldn't get at so the line from under the head thermostat I cut in half, and the one directly under the intake runners I smashed with a screwdriver Hose down in here, soooommmmmeewhere; Ok so the offending part in question is a Not only is there evidence where I bludgeoned it to death with a screw driver, you can see below the joins from where this was bound to fail; And as you can see inside, looks just like any other thermostat you'd see around a workshop. More to come on that later So first plan was to see if it could be patched with glue, a plan I wasn't a fan of for a few reasons. That's now not an option. Go and see if there is a "for like" replacement that I can McGyvor in with some barbs at repco/bursons. Ford kit/Ralph hack and get it together so I can just drive it again. From what was a simple oil change, a few other minor issues have now made this a headache. The thing that sh*ts me most about this is that someone at Ford made the case they NEEDED this part. They couldn't buy a motorcraft or triton generic one to use from factory. They spent a heap of money on tooling to make this ford part, in three pieces of plastic, which was now even more prone to fail, and they have all failed on the road which has led them to be discontinued.

Hey Ralph, you wouldn't have the part #'s of the replacement kits handy would you? If they even supply them any more?

Not sure about that, I used to be able to buy Ultimate from Race Fuels in melb. They had said they buy smaller quantities direct from a refinery in Melbourne? Maybe not the case any more

Cheers Ralph, appreciated. Yes, that's the thread I had seen Gave the local dealer a call and the parts interpreter knew they did a few in the early days, as of 10-06 there was apparently a tech bulletin which was to remove it all together. The other option they floated was to get a heater tap from repco/bursons. I've already gone through the cooler replace. I'll do a bit more reading up on it and sleep on it before I decide what I'll do

Another 15L of vPower/Optimax and all is well. In fact, I've been having a code thrown which I've constantly been wiping. New fuel, bang problem gone Never thought I'd say it but Shell looks the better fuel right now. It still takes a moment to crank but doesn't stutter any more. I'll chuck in some BP again later and see what happens

I noticed over the last few weeks the coolant level dropping ever so slightly but haven't thought much of it. Turns out I've got a leak from around the middle of the thermostat housing that supplies the transmission. I believe these where standard fit to automatic FPV's (B) and taken off in the FG series all together. I've read that these have also been discontinued from ford which I'll look in to more tomorrow. Any suggestions as to a fix? Few options are; find a spare take it out and route it normally (like all the other zf boxes in the range) try and find a for like replacement (which I think may be difficult) god forbid, chemiweld (no I'm not going down this road)

Last time I checked there was a minor amount of axial play, but it deffinaty wasn't huge. (Maybe I just want it to hurry up & die so I can go a gtx...)

On shutdown. Just a very dry noise. And from what I'm lead to believe they all sound that way.

Ah I see, life. Yeah, life stuff has been getting in my way for a while now but its a bad habit I can't give up right now. Had an oil feed on it since almost new I think. I do want to take it off and turn the long & short lines around to position the body a bit nicer in the bay though, plus finally get the coil cover on correctly. You know, the little details, just for the ladies

Hey mate, been a while! Things is good. Going on about 12 months now and generally all is well. There are a heap of little jobs that are cropping up, all the general maintenance stuff for 10 year old cars you know. Gearbox isn't the happiest thing in the world now the weather is getting a bit colder, however it is running fine once the engine is warmed up. The other area of note is the seals/bearings in the turbo which I'm keeping an eye on. Got that horrible dry noise when the engine shuts off, hasn't gotten any worse but its 150,000k old and I'll be looking at options when it's time. I'm going to keep the power approx the same, but if it's a replacement job probably a gtx. Which having the power come on a little sooner, I suppose could put the box under a bit more duress, so I'll be saving pennies for that plus a retune. We'll just see how things pan out this winter. The other jobs? well, bodywork scraps & cracks. Calipers need an overhaul, so some new paint on them will look nice. New set of rims (eventually) as the stock ones are scratched as f*ck and I think one is proper out of round. And a new set of rotors too, as the stock ones have a bit of a warp going on. All time and money for now. As a vehicle that I can just jump in and use though, that is well manored & livable, I'm glad to say it's what I was hoping it would turn out to be. The on going little niggly fixups are always a bit of a drag though. Everytime I jump in "oh yeah, I need to have a look at that next week" What's news your way?

Fella needs to give up the night work and get a good job as a parts interpreter me thinks! another thing you will discover very quickly about Phil is that he absolutely loves a deal too. Like a sixth sense of being able to find the exact parts and tools for ludicrous prices

Your encylopedic knowledge proves insightful yet again Phil. Cheers

Any idea what Brembo did with the 6 piston option in terms of piston sizes phil? I figure if anyone would know, you'd be a pretty good start

Just let it warm up & drive it sensibly for a week or two. Then doughnuts to finish off the stock tyres

How are you running the FG motors cam phasers with a BA ecu?