FiftyOne

May as well give it a port while it's off....

Any damage to plugs? Crank moves freely and pistons all come up to the deck evenly?

The ZF generally speaking is quicker than a manual box anyway (assuming a BF here) NA motors can benefit nicely from a basic tune and exhaust, still going to be limited not having boost. My opinion for what little its worth is to wait til you are off your P's and buy something nice with a turbo. The bigger challenge as a P plater is not molesting and trashing a perfectly good car in 3 years so it can be sold at a reasonable price

Great write up. Noticed the shoes on the left side weren't centered and I had to force the shoes together to get the disc off. I'm thinking something has stuck or bent, anyone seen anything similar?

What's everyones thoughts on friction modifiers? I'm not well versed as to best practice, ute's log book calls for a 40ml of a modifier but is there something else that people use as best(better) practice?

The tune make-ath the car

We all do (say) dumb sh*t from time to time. Don't let it fuss you, I certainly don't when it happens to me. Those 3 port style solinoids are very trick things, when setup they can give an amazing amount of control even in high boost ranges and can shut the gate way faster from off idle scenarios. Issue is you need to completely remap the control curve before you begin. They can bleed off a ton of boost for a lot longer than a normal 2 port pulsed sol. I'd say the computer wasn't expecting the boost to climb as rapidly as it did and it just shot up like you said (I would also triple check you've got the ports connected up correctly) If you hadn't changed the timing, and the fuel kept up, you might have got real lucky with a gasket burp. Like I say though, if any water got in the bores could be a rod or two. Start with the basics though. I'll stay tuned though, could be the start of an epic block buildup (but I hope not)

Yep, bit warped both sides. Try to figure out what the next steps are going to be now (didn't have a gauge but this neat trick doubles the error and it's maybe 1.5mm, I don't know what that measurement is in old school anvil-forges)

Yeah, I think its because you're condeming a really nice tool for the rest of your life and the tools life to that crappy job you had to do once. And you'll always see it in the draw and it'll stare back at you, taunting you because you know you'll have to do that job again one day in the future....

This makes me feel really funny inside. Not sure if want

(In my defense I'm dealing with several worn and wearing components from a decade old high performance vehicle) Sucks to hear about the breakdown mate. Those compression numbers are a little all over the shop, wondering if (assuming the gasket has gone) that somehow its bent a rod or two? I'm with Puff though, head to come off or at a minimum a borascope to see what you can see in the plug holes

I'd say that's what it is. I saw the brake shoes in that video and instantly thought it sounds like the shoes rubbing.

No tramp, I'm running 10.5 rears and it seems to hold well. Rarely push anything hard, that said I know the previous owners weren't the kindest people to it, maybe I've given it a final blow somewhere along the line. I'll try to stick it in the shed over the weekend and have another look, Thanks Bamk

I've had a slight squeak from the axle on the ute for a little while, after replacing the pads its fairly bad (particually when cold) The new pads are mostly bedded in now, however they're noisy for a few moments until they gain a bit of heat. The other noise sounds like rubbing tin or something similar. I've checked around the dust cover/stone guard behind the rotor and I can't see any obvious signs of wear or damage, noise only seems to be at lower speeds when turning. Anyone suggest a place to start with this? Am I right thinking it could be movement in the bearings?

I did see that, I wasn't too sure about it as I thought most GTW's where external gate (even though this deal isn't) and the size of the unit is slightly different, different water/oil fittings. And I thought Gtw was more track focused mid range where as gtx was lower spool for the street? Can someone correct me here? Also, for that price, plus the oil drain kit, plus fitment kit, plus plus plus, the price of their gtx2 replacement is pretty comparable (as that is either included or not required)

Billet GTX2 is my only option? My arm! stop twisting it!

Really? I thought stock was a journal unit? You learn something everyday!

Probably fair comments with the rebuild, thanks guys. Suppose there is the option to re core it with a ball bearing unit without a lot of other hassle which ticks a lot of boxes. I'll sleep on it & see where I get, I've got to sort out the daily first <fml>lost all drive coming through a roundabout yesterday </fml>

Had a bit of a look around but I haven't found any clear answers re using a GTX3582 for the power I'm after so I'm after a few opinions. Turbo has sounded a little dry for a while on shutdown, a friend mentioned there was a reasonable puff of smoke as I took off the other day and I'm fairly sure it's shaft seal. Although everything is still fine now I'm thinking I want to get something done sooner than later. So; -Rebuild the stock F6 unit? I'm not a huge fan of bush bearing turbos, technology has come a fair way and for most aftermarket applications ball bearing is the go. This option is however the cheapest, mostly as I will not require a retune Assuming I'm going to tune with power on 98 in the mid 300's, sticking with the same exhaust setup as I'm currently running. I'd prefer to bring the power on a little earlier and lower in the range, I don't track or race the ute, it's a comfortable streetable package that I just get around in. -Maybe find a GTX3576 secondhand (as they don't sell them any more) -Grab a secondhand GTX3582 for a good price a guy I know is selling, however what I know of this unit it is probably oversized for this application? -Go the full wog and have a GTX3576 gen2 built as a drop in replacement to what I've currently got. The gen2 option is the most expensive, however it's maybe the better option as it's a far more known quantity than a secondhand unit (that potentially is too big for the application)

*sigh* I'll be investigating a turbo rebuild/swap soon. That horrible horrible dry spool noise on shutdown haunting me. Almost as bad as this

I deserved that after the agony of soldering upside down in the dark. It was glorious

Lights in under the hard cover. Had the stuff sitting in a corner for a few years now and finally got the motivation now its getting dark earlier to do something about it. Took a fair while longer than I expected to get done but fairly happy with how it's come up. Very even light in the tub too. My only wish would have been a spotlight that could illuminate the tow hookup, but the angles don't work. I'll have to come up with a plan B there.