FiftyOne

I'm with stupid

One variable you've taken out of the mix with the lowering has been arresting shock. If you hit a bump in the road now you have reduced the time & distance you have to work with arresting that energy, therefore you get a firmer or rougher ride. Similarly you are trying to rapidly load the tyre and with the way geometry & physics work, you are loading that axle. Without some of the distance & flex you originally had, the tyre will still only handle so much torque but you are getting to the friction limit of the rubber really quick. You don't reduce the traction so much as make it difficult to feel when you are coming up on that limit. Once you've smashed through the limit of friction to the road it becomes a loosing struggle. Basically if you can get your head around friction, adding more tyre grip will only offer so much. See static & kinetic friction here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friction#Static_friction Also think about a top fueler, they have no rear suspension and they bring on way more power quicker than you can dream of. But the tyres go through all sorts of crazy deformation. Have a look at the video below about bike frame stiffness, semi relatable? Hope if haven't confused anything for you. In answer to your question, yes a wider stickier tyre may help with more overall grip. However if you think of that graph of friction you potentially still break traction and still loose heaps of grip very quickly. I would lift it and make it a little nicer ride, but that's just me.

There was also a big push from French manufactures a long time ago to do the same. The government invested money big time in to seeing if it could be done. And lets face it, the French do have a reasonable sized car industry and have come up with some interesting tech solutions. The funniest thing about what I've just said is that I believe they gave up and development stopped. That's right, the French government gave up

Yep, cracked housing strikes again. Same happened to me, forever struggle during a service now ensuring they're torqued up as best as possible. I was never completely sold on the idea of V-band setups for a few reasons, mainly could have been around options at the time for other bolt on options to support it. Certainly wouldn't walk pass one now. Hope you get it sorted with the minimum of fuss mate

Can't say I did ever find it sorry. Could have been a timing chain rattle. I know I had a cracked turbine housing around the flange bolts so that could have been it too.

I've also not seen nor heard of a stock turbo F6 exceeding the 4's. In fact the best I've seen was a modified stock unit running e85 in the low/mid 4's. Needless to say other things start breaking in the 5's (eg driveline)

There is a new ICC a South Australian mob are selling which is pretty trick for the B series. However I'd wait to see what the longer term longevity is of the unit first. Not that I'd let that sway your choice either.

p>Yep, its an abusive love affair with some of these older cars now. It's still cheaper than a wife or girlfriend, but not by much

Just keep in mind the main volume of the sump is swapped from B sumps to F sumps. May come in handy to fit up.

Hi mate, I wouldn't say straight off the bat that bolts & gears are needed. Most people seem to do the springs regardless, even with slight boost increases as I've been told by a tuner that he was uncomfortable with aged springs in that case. Re the other two, it depends how crazy you are going and what the application is. Obviously higher boost & compression will dictate something to be done there. I'm running 16psi and it's standard bolts. Maybe if you're racing at that you'd upgrade for safety, however I don't feel the need personally. The standard gears are fine for standard use too. The thing that seems to kill them is more revs & the lash from banging on the limiter. Again, if you're racing it or going down the crazy street path it's not something to worry too much about. The later series Barra engines for a street application will output high 300kw's at the flywheel with minor mods. If you're stuffing this thing in a stang you're going to have enough drama without needing to mess with the engine too much, and those parts can be put in later if you wish. I'd keep it simple for starters

Got to love finding cheap easy fixes. Not hard to put a little love in to a worn car. (Can't wait to see how crazy the mods get....)

Assuming you're running a RWD? I've always wondered what if any mods the driveline on an AWD would need. Even running mid 300's at the wheels though should be ok for the standard AWD drive I would guess

<clarksonPOWHER!.gif>

Unfortunately the life of these particular cars means they are often maintenance hungry beasts. I know a guy with a stock FG XR6 which has required a lot of suspension work, has nothing to do with the engine, it just didn't agree with some of the roads he was driving on. There's barely a time I do a simple oil change were I don't have to fix or swap out something else either. Broken, warn, leaking, dirty, loose, it's just an older vehicle that has k's on it. Yeah it sucks a bit sometimes but at the same time I do it because I want to keep it driving as best I can for as long as I can. I'd say most people here would give a similar answer - yes there are easier cars out there to live with, but that's not the point. Biggest things I would check would be the suspension for any excessive wear and try to figure out if the car ever had a generic tune put on it. I'm really not a fan of the generic cheap kits & flash units out there, always best to get a reputable tuner to tune the car with the mods you pick.

I'm at least glad to hear he's doing something he'd be passionate about. You can tell in his write-ups he loves figuring things out and having a go. Hopefully he's killing it as a mech now. He'd probably make a killer parts interpreter or parts adviser too come to think of it

Yep, that's the reaction. Can't blame him

I'm sad to hear this. I know it was difficult times for him in that industry with Uber, really nice fella. Big loss for this community with him going awol

Finally getting around to fixing up these rims, went in to the local (respected) paint shop and they didn’t want to know about paint codes. ”na bring a rim in and I’ll colour match it” Am I talking to the right person here on this? Surely instead of blindly matching at least having the OEM code is a good place to at least start before blindly guessing?

Rape face activated

I would throw a strong cranking battery at it & just see what happens for starters. I've often thought I was mad but a fresh battery in all the cars I've had just seem to make them drive nicer. Can't tell you why, they just feel better to drive. There are heaps of people making mid 350's on a zf box without too many issues. Change the fluid/filter and see where you're at. Slipping zf's while cold isn't uncommon but it'll be lots of slip while hot that will tell you you're in trouble, or the infamous input shaft.

Que shipping containers filled with Barra' heading to America

Que container loads of barra motors getting shipped back to Japan to be used in Formula Drift

This

Agreed! Somehow engineered the exhaust with JDM spec sounds? Maybe the external gate?

$$$$ it all comes down to the bottom line Interestingly Tesla have it automatically with their self driving hardware, basically a blackbox type setup. There are a few blogs now commenting how these auto record features plus autopilot/crash avoidance will significantly distrupt the insurance market for cars like this