Jump to content

FiftyOne

Bronze Donating Members
  • Posts

    1,145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by FiftyOne

  1. 1000cc injectors. If I'm reading this right your doing your own tune. With supplied data you'll get the car up & running again quick and it'll be more consistent when you do
  2. Speaking from experience finding things in the cab that should be there?
  3. If you've got multiple inlets to the box there is less suck on each port. The water also has to climb up to the filter. If you're driving through that much water it soaks the filter, you shouldn't be driving through that much water to begin with
  4. My opinion only, but if you've got two inlets the spray won't climb up in to the airbox too much. Let's say the worse case is highway, 110kph 50% throttle in the driving rain following a truck. Well a few things to consider there, you have control on several things eg slow down, get away from the spray, etc. B series high output motors all have a secondary scoop (albeit shielded by the bumper a bit) but all engines will draw a little water in these conditions fairly happily. Remember too, that getting a true power mod from what you're doing probay won't happen as there are only minor gains to be had
  5. That's the one yup
  6. Biketz is right. Save the folding stuff for the next car, but learn lots on this one. I always say to p platers "you can have sex in a car with a woman, but you can have sex in a house with multiple women at the same time". Save the money, buy the house (Btw welcome and thanks for showing us the ride) However all that said, your money, so if you want to go to town on it, go for gold mate
  7. I'm sitting here quietly stroking my beard wondering about this FG piping I've just mucked around with. Stock it has some thin metal rings (made from 1.6mm wire) that help prevent the ribbed flex in the pipe from collapsing. These have been squashed and hence removed now. I'm still wondering if something is required to stop the pipe collapsing when its warm and there's a mild vacuum in it. I could make up a new set with some pretty robust wire I've got, but again I don't want it to come loose while I'm driving & end up in the compressor :-/ So if I did this I'd probably secure it in somehow to keep it in place. This said, the majority of engine rock will happen while its at speed and in this case the pipe will be wanting to oval out more. Hmmmm, need more beer. Other news of the night, the whip is still running strong beer can & all. I do need to get the coolant swapped. While at clark rubber I asked the fella for a 10L bucket and a scoop of water out of the blowup kids pool in the shop front to fill it. Sure enough to prevent more sh*t happening I'll be swapping it when I can along with the thermostat and I'll eventually swap the top tank on both cars too and the cracked pipe
  8. So oh had a bit of a short play around today. Picked up some missing nuts & bolts plus coolant and vac parts The first & most important thing was to get the whip running. Cracked collector pipe on the coolant return. Crap design, one 440ml cc & dry can with some 5 minute apoxy and hose clamps later and I just saved myself several hundred dollars on a sh*tty ford part. Hasn't spilt a drop since! Got stuck in to the cross over today, heat gun and some pressure reformed the FG pipework to get low enough that I think it'll allow the bonnet to close without rubbing too much. Intercooler is mounted and now the cold side pipes are getting plumbed. Nizpro sent me the wrong pipes (which isn't so bad as I need to muck around with the run under the headlight anyway.) Wanted to run a 32mm bov setup but even the. 25mm pipe is going to be tight to fit in. Ran the engine for a few minutes with coolant again too. Turns out I think the little o ring on the tap had crapped out. Topped up and the thing idles & revs up a dream. Only issue was some accumulated oil on the turbine housing from an earlier issues (I think) started to get hot and smoke a bit. Need to look in to that a bit more. So just some pipework to go and I'm about there!
  9. So oh had a bit of a short play around today. Picked up some missing nuts & bolts plus coolant and vac parts The first & most important thing was to get the whip running. Cracked collector pipe on the coolant return. Crap design, one 440ml cc & dry can with some 5 minute apoxy and hose clamps later and I just saved myself several hundred dollars on a sh*tty ford part. Hasn't spilt a drop since! Got stuck in to the cross over today, heat gun and some pressure reformed the FG pipework to get low enough that I think it'll allow the bonnet to close without rubbing too much. Intercooler is mounted and now the cold side pipes are getting plumbed. Nizpro sent me the wrong pipes (which isn't so bad as I need to muck around with the run under the headlight anyway.) Wanted to run a 32mm bov setup but even the. 25mm pipe is going to be tight to fit in. Ran the engine for a few minutes with coolant again too. Turns out I think the little o ring on the tap had crapped out. Topped up and the thing idles & revs up a dream. Only issue was some accumulated oil on the turbine housing from an earlier issues (I think) started to get hot and smoke a bit. Need to look in to that a bit more. So just some pipework to go and I'm about there!
  10. Clarification; engines probably running a tad rich at idle but not by much. A minor tweak during its time will be sorted. Also, the KAM was reset during the flash so it was out there too. Other than that, still can't recommend a set of fingerprinted 1000's enough
  11. Nfi right now, still need to get everything back together. But I have complete confidence in the parts and suppliers I've gone with so far to do this. Even if I have an issue I know I can call up & get it sorted quick
  12. Again not much happening tonight but the big news is.... Engine starts! And f me wow. Other news is my whip that's been back on the rd less than 24 hours developed not 1 but 2 coolant leaks! Fml!!!!!! Anyway, will be walking about buying parts for a while longer til that's sorted. Started to mount up the cooler tonight which took far longer than I expected as I don't know how it's all meant to bolt up. After a few hours of cocking about its mostly in. Boost sensor is in and the line is plumbed for that. One last bolt on the back of the manifold that needs to be torqued up right but I think we're apples! The idle quality is unreal. First start it was like it was missing on a cylinder, hmmm. Thought it could be a bunch of things & sure enough that things you find, I'd removed a injector plug to get to a bolt. Back on and and it starts so dam well and idles so nice. I'd also like to give people my experience with a few things. First off to weaponX coils- so many people saying they don't help or improve the way the engine runs, stocks better bla bla. For those that have done the swap & aren't impressed, I'd have to ask whether they've had the tune altered to make them work. The spark dwell tables need to be altered to actually make them work correctly. Without the tune, yeah, you would waste your money Second a shout out to both KPM & Herrod that respectively gave me the tune as I needed and gave super prompt service to help unbrick my flash unit. Customer service was top notch. So basically I primed everything up and hit the go button and it started. Idle was high as I think the battery was low but I'll too that up before the first test drive. This leaves me some induction pipe work, vac lines and reassembly to be done for now along with the dam radiator that won't stop pissing on the floor Got the boost transducer tapped in to the need cooler too. And it's a good thing the bumper has come off as the worm drive of he hose clamp under the battery was rubbing on the loom and had punctured the conduit. Main goal for now will be to get the whip patched & source a new part for that, and get some pipe work on so I can just drive it around the block for a quick shakedown. The airbox will come later as even though it might suck a bit of hot air, it'll run fine and cause less issues without it. Not sure how much I'll be working on this over the next week or so as I'm so over booked with other stuff it's not funny. Massive deadline to hit with a charity group I'm helping so here's hoping
  13. Won't post the full thing here but just started the ute for the first time with its new injectors. Was running like it was skipping on a cylinder or something, that said it idled pretty good! Thought I'd check the bay to see if there was anything obvious wrong and... What you know, took one of the injector plugs off to get to a bolt. Back together and bugger me I could not believe how well it idled! Better than stock. Who knows, could have been in need of a clean for the injectors but since I've owned this thing it's never been this smooth. All I did was chuck a set of injectors at it with the supplied tune. Super impressed
  14. Had my floor carpets jam the accelerator recently. Scariest second & a half of my life
  15. I'd have Go go search but I think it was another tank mob I hadn't really heard of (Buy Australian)
  16. So I understand KPM have a purpose built rig in a test room dedicated to this. It's cost over $100,000 to build and they would like to upgrade it to make it world class. Anyone that drops over 6 figures to build their own custom test chamber to fingerprint/blueprint injectors, esp in this country, wins my businessId & KPM are the two I know of that get spoken about the most. There is a third lesser talked about company that has this capability too
  17. Link to the ute sale?
  18. Word to the wise wih a nizpro plenum install - manifold first, then fuel rail, then vac fittings. This is a right PITA now getting to bolts in a certain order. The whole job would be super easy if you are taking the full manifold off anyway (or if it wasn't in the car to start with) so that fantastic job getting things torqued and cross threaded has taken me a bit longer that I expected. And the saga continues! Anyway, need to get a slightly longer booster line still, and figure out how to split the lines off for the bov. Also took the pressure transducer out of the old cooler and I'm still weighing up whether I can just tap the end tank and screw it in without need for welding in a bung. So that's all today folks
  19. Kpm. Buy Australian. Blueprinted/fingerprinted/flow matched injectors, with data are the way to go either way
  20. Actually wilko you are correct. I didn't think of that. But I'll be keeping them as close to the original locations as possible. Last thing I want is the brakes to go on me for any reason 0_o Also need to figure out how to get a vac line a little closer to the tb for the bov too. Trying to upload a panorama shot of the engine bay but the phone isn't playing nice so that's the teaser for some other time right now
  21. PCV, crank, crank vent, blowby valve = all the same thing. Do appreciate the responses on that but I figured it out. Big one is the pcv, the little one is the ac hose. I've been a little absent minded thinking about a heap of other things going on in life distracting me right now and unfortunately life is a bad habit I'm not ready to give up right now. I heard something once about a book called the zen art of motor mechanics. The pretence is about how those sh*tty hard jobs are actually an escape when they require all of your attention & focus. This build is a bit of a mental thing right now. Time for other sh*t and all the unexpected things is taking my eye off the ball a bit. But when I'm in the shed, the fires stoked, radios on and I'm quietly sipping a tastey beverage thinking about the problem I'm facing, I really enjoy it. Sounds silly but it's a bit daunting knowing there's this big scary thing in the shed that's looking to cause me grief at every turn but when I get started I make progress. I'm also starting to round out things now so I can finally see how it will all work which is ace. And it's an hour or two a day or every other day for now Ok so things still to do; Sort out & re plumb the vac lines, booster & pcv Get more thread lock & bolt down the manifold Mount & plumb the intercooler Fit the pressure transducer Chop the airbox to fit, bend the Ac line to clear everything (and if not disable it over winter til I can custom something up) Mounting tabs to hold small things out of the way as well as get some pipework bent up to suit Fix the rad Reassemble & start (hoping to restart next Thursday for a brief time to see if the tune will work) So on to the latest of the night - Got the right angle drill kit and event that was borderline close from not fitting in to position too Learning the hard way that I've done this ass backwards as well. The injector rail is now in the way preventing me from using the expensive and hard to find 3/8th wobble attachment from doing up the manifold nuts. Also, pretty much forget torque settings on a nizzy plenum as you can't really get a tool in to get at them, so the FT system it is - stands for FFFFFFAIRLY!! Tight. It would be easier doing this BEFORE the injectors are reinstalled. On a completely unrelated note, trying to do injectors first is what led me in to this mess! The central nuts are the most difficult as they are more inboard and under the body of the thing. Everything else I will do up when I've got more threadloc. The stuff from factory is a right pain as it's everywhere in the threads you don't want it to be. As we do, we'll sneak a tool on it & get them all done up. I'll come back after a few heat cycles & double check them too. In my youthful rush brought a new gasket for it and modified it which has now effectively f*cked it so the original will go back on. It'll do The tune has been uploaded and is ready to start. I've got some generic etc codes (p1000) which Re common for when things are disconnected I believe so we'll give it a kick in the guts soon and see how many injectors spray fuel external to the manifold or that throw codes etc. Flashing the ecu took longer than I though it would too. Noticed the ecu makes a high pitched squeal when it's working too And the dark art for the night, the FG arrangement. So again a major call for a FG rocker cover of someone knows someone with a spare, but I can mod something to work. The below is a pic in the headlight area to see bonnet clearance. Hard to see but the pipe opening is high as the coil cover is also high. I could get around it by chopping the foil cover but I'm super not keep to do that right now. And I think the rubber could maybe be put to a heat gun to warp and make work. I don't think this is the way to do it though as under bonnet temps are high in any car and nothing will ensure it will hold that shape, so thinking about a few options there. Worst case is I use that pipe as a template to have a custom piece made up and crashed to suit. Or maybe the bonnet lining will start to get a bit grazed by touching. Anyway we'll see what tomorrow brings but for now I'm very pleased with how it sits. I spied a few other photos of El setups that look like that could give a good inspiration to help get around the problems I'm facing too The other issue is the tps. I didn't think these needed a tps as they've got a wired throttle but apparently they do. The top of the tps will rub in to the bonnet insulation too so I need to think about the orientation of the tb. Again that's a problem for not now. Height issues at the moment to be solved; Assorted cooler pipe to help with bends etc for now;
  22. Nope. That's the bigger one. Thinking a vac line to the AC? Might plumb a tee in at the back and run it off the original bov line. Need to tap in for a bov line too. Was thinking about swapping the line to the brake booster over with the crank. The hoses fit better, however I think the brake line would be far too close to the crank vent = oil in the booster. If I can get another vac line the same as the front crank one (has a dog leg in it) I'll keep it at the back
  23. Spoken like true slut ;p
×
  • Create New...
'