FiftyOne

Any tips on how to get a spanner on the oil feed line under the manifold at all? going in via the airbox local. isn't helping at this stage.

Well I think this one just about puts it to bed. 220wkw is possible with some cams and headwork in prep for gas. Can KPM make 240fkw without the cam or head work? I’m a little doubtful

So, is the issue resolved?

I'm guessing with fair more comp in the head to make use of the e85. Probably turned a lot of ethonol in to noise & heat by the sounds

Way back in the day there were a few around on fordmods reportedly making just shy of 200wkw. I believe they were tuned to run on 98 fairly aggressively and the limiter was raised so they could rev the freckle off it. I've got a mate with a VE SS with a KPM kit on it, centrifical blower, fuel & exhaust and they're claiming 430wkw out of that. Now that's a really strong car, the off idle torque is pretty good and it stays strong throughout the range. But my bum dyno tells me that its not 430 wheel. I think it's 430 fly. Could an NA barra make 240 wheel? Would need to ask the experts but I'm going to stay yes with cams and maybe some headwork? Next thing you'd want to ask is why; you have to rev the tits off it to get it making that power and for all that effort you'd be better off with a stock BA turbo. However, if you could make close to 200 wheel in a stock barra, for the minimal mods and a tune, maybe not too bad value

I'm going to say it again, I searched high & low, vetted a heap of tuners before I chose mine. There are very few, if any outside of Melbourne that I trusted. Believe me, if I could have had a reasonable job done in central vic I wouldn't have gone elsewhere. I'm not sure which shop you're refering to in town and I don't doubt their skills or experience on performance vehicles. But I also believe its a job for a Barra specialist.

Sound a little like a fuel issue? like the injectors aren't atomizing or they don't have the correct pressure (ie blocked filter) check for a leak on the regulator as well

I'm central Vic myself. I am not aware of any tuners or reputable mechanics that would be able to diagnose it any better than yours already has in the area. It's rapidly starting to sound like a Melbourne job for a mob that regularly does turbo barra's

I was going to suggest the fact that it hadn't had a tune could actually be the cause however I'm assuming this mechanic had done something about that? Can we get confirmation on that?

Where's the oil/grease around the housing coming from? Also, crazy old MCM video

Are the fans coming on? Could be a lot of things

Bit of an old thread here but I did find the coils assisted in fixing the issues. I had also found a ground wire around the front of the bay which wasn't secured correctly, so after cleaning it & torquing it back down all has been well ever since.

The hero this thread really needs right now;

I can't believe I'm replying to this thread but here we are. Is the valve ported correctly? the stock Bosch one looks like its plumbed backwards from factory. Also, just googled what that thing looks like; god dam its a thot of a valve

I think I've managed to track down a replacement for under 250 in town so I can't really shy away from that. And if it lasts 4 years only being driven a couple of times a week I think that's good enough too. And agreed, keeping it topped up is likely the way to go.

I've had a Full River HC28 for around 4 years and it's finally failing to hold charge. Wondering if people have had better experiences with other brands or they have a preference. Thanks

I <3 Bananas that's cheap

Interested to see how this one pans out

You haven't actually tuned this to handle the mods, have you....

There's a few good write up's on the site about it if you're inclined to do it yourself. If you take it to the pro's you probably looking at anything beyond $1,000 from memory its ~300 for the kit plus 70ish per liter for genuine ZF fluid of which you need about 14 liters for a full fill and labour on that. If you use dextron6 ZF compatible fluid you'll save a fair bit on the oil. The reason I ask about the wheels, there was something I remember with the Simmons I was going to get. Guy at the shop had said it could trigger ABS faults for some cars based on a different rolling diameter because of the sidewall ratio. I'm not saying that's the cause here, but maybe a bit of slippage in the box plus the wheels could be doing it?

Hi mate. Certainly sounds odd? going to ask a fairly basic question here, what sort of rims & tyres are you running?

100% not the person to be asking on the matter. But if I see correctly, the rubber has sagged and is cracked around the top. I would be changing it anyway as a wearing item

Could still be that maybe until a little bit of boost built up? Either way, doesn't sound so great. I'd get it on a hoist sooner than later