FiftyOne

Welcome Liam. You've come to a good place with many wise heads You'll probably need to tell us a little more about the car and what you hope to achieve, current work, etc etc fyi, the barra motor and the barra turbo's aren't really the same engine. There are a lot of small differences that differentiate them. Also, the Ford EEC ecu's are a very well featured ecu. the xcal tuners make good use of the stock functionality, not many people replace them. If it were me, again not knowing you or the car, I would mod the front of the stock airbox, put some 1000'cc injectors in (the proper flow matched ones) and give it a very quick run on a dyno. Maybe if you were keen throw a set of cams at it

20 pound is way high. Just sayn. Spikes are a norm thing though. There is a time required to get the diverter valve to open

Being a bearing/hub design I wouldn't think it'd be too much of an issue anyway. (I want a shiny gold set to match the wheels I want ) wank

^whs

Worth it?

All hail Phil for yet another top write up. What are the rotors your running there? some sort of 2 piece

Looks like it might have just been a harmonic in the FG pipe work I had on. I've put a turbo side intake on and it sounds like a normal rice burner. Much like a unicorn have sex with one thousand turkeys under the bonnet

Na just hit the mods! I do love the look of the all white G6E's with the 19's, look great with lots of comfort without being a grandpa car. Nice buy

I'm not really in the market for a new ECU, but I was debating with a mate about engine management for B/F series turbo's and after a quick google discovered there isn't really an aftermarket option for a plug&play unit. Some of the well known brands do P&P kits for a few models but deffinately not the fords. I suppose this is because the xcal & the HPTuners setups are able to deal with reflashing pretty easy. Anyone know of any I didn't see?

It should be fine I would think as the pressure would only be more consistent with a stronger pump. Re what happens in the top end from a tune that's trying to work around falling fuel pressure, it might run a tad rich, but it should be fine. This is all assuming that the reg is swaped to match the pump flow

check the codes, tighten up all the pipe joins on the intake, intake manifold & exhaust manifold bolts. new fuel filter. I would suspect it could be a dead coil or something though if it's missing that bad

Bendigo 2 hrs north of Melbourne, 7 hours fast drive south of SYD. I love your work, but I don't love it that much.. Sorry knunt!

GREAT NEWS! I don't have to drive the whip around much longer! the beer can is holding up but there are other plans a foot.... So here's what I've done to my 2004 Focus...... bla bla bla lba akdsfgjahdgfigfgjdlafjgdgfah Actually, lets face it, I treat that thing like a rent-a-car, who gives a rite f*ck. It starts & runs (for now) I also try to be fair & honest as much as my ego allows so you'll only hear me say this quick Iwaswrongaboutthis These little batteries are incredible. No drama getting the starter to crank or the fuse box the correct voltage. In talking to my former FPV contact and also a mate about wiring, we've doubled up on the battery positive and this thing starts so bloody strong I can't believe it. Completely wrong about it. Infact my mate put it on his tester and it came back and said it had a potential 1450CCA! Just absolutely staggering. Side note to this - The young kid that has assisted with the electrical work is going out on his own after working for a brand name auto shop and doing after hours work in his spare time. I've known the family for more than 10 years and he is from good stock. He's about to go out on his own and do this as a living, hence getting his assistance with this. With other things I do, I try to engage young people to get their skills up and to help get them to where they want to be in life. In a few weeks I hope this young fella will be doing what he really wants to do, for himself, and I'll be happy for him. As for other things I do, I'm part of a youth charity group (hence the relay baton, see the final vid below), and I plan to give a few L platers a drive (on a very limited tune!) on their birthday's as a present after their dad's bring them back from the RTO/VicToads. I've met a lot of young kids from my karting experience and I try and look after them through inspecting their equipment and gear. In doing that and talking to the families, I trust (some) of the kids to go for a short drive around town as a thank you to the families. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtpZ_Yyj0mw For those that have kept abreast of some other posts, the turbo was making some god dam bad noises but the below video seems to have cleared that up after I took all the loose tools out of the intake pipework https://youtu.be/xh_JTEeRjB4 But the turbo is definitely in need of attention. It's leaking oil through the rear housing and its also a little gruff when the engine is shutdown. Big news at the moment is that we're back driving again! Nizpro stage 2 kit for now and we'll see what issues crop up. I'm really not happy with how the cold side pipework has fit up and there are issues with little things as well. But once again, driving and no fault codes. I'll be driving it for the next week or so and double checking some parts for wear and rub which I'm not happy about too.

if you need standard intake stuff, I've just taken all mine off. Problem is you're at the wrong end of the country Oh, and sorry but I just need to add this...... /inb4PhilMeUpgetstheuteretunedcauseitsbeenbutcheredanditsnotuptohisloftystandards

All hail PhilMeUp - savoir of the Tornado's

Well, I would think with no moving parts they should out last the car?

Let me just put my flame suit on [waterproofpants] The long life standard Iridiums should be fine but they do need to be gaped correctly. I'm not a huge fan of boosting the coils, and if there isn't a problem with your current ones I wouldn't change them. Personally I had an issue with one and swapped the lot with weaponx units. Didn't notice the difference until I had the spark map changed to suit. Real smooth now, really really smooth. If you're having other work done and you're looking to splash some coin, I'd recommend it. Other than that I wouldn't bother [/prepareforbutthurt]

Buy it!

yo serious?

If you think this is difficult, I work on an 8 tonne military truck with a South-North engine, an ISG going in to two 90' drives then in to a N-S gearbox mounted beside the block. Half the cooling pack is mounted on top of the gearbox. Oh, and they want to put more parts in to make it euro5 compliant. You think this is/was a hassle? na, it's just the process to me. From what I've seen it can be done, I just don't have the time to continue it for now. It'll get revisited some day. Re a 'stock' look though, a PW style plenum doesn't look near stock lets be honest. At least a blue nizzy to the uneducated is semi believable

Cause I got to learn something. Lots of people said it couldn't be done but could never tell me why it was the case. I know for certainty now. Also, as I saw it the bigger issue was ovaling out the flex pipe.

Watch this space, I'll be keeping everything & one day I'll get back to this

Ute's running & driving a treat. No clunks or rattles that weren't there before hand and to my surprise, no codes thrown as yet either. But, I am conceeding defeat re the FG pipework. Yes, 100% it CAN be made to work, talking to a guy I work with who's ex FPV during the BA BF & in to coyote development, the initial ideas were to have a similar design to what is shown, with something similar to a EB style manifold near the headlight. For a heap of reasons I won't go in to right now, that ford chose not to do this, as we know. So for now I've got the rest of the Nizpro kit on order which will go on and it will be sent for tuning. Two reasons have driven me to this point; 1, I've suspected since I've owned the ute that it's had a pretty hard life and not much love which has taken it's toll on a couple of critical parts, namely gearbox and turbo. These really need to be attended to 2, Work is about to step up a notch. We're 1 step away from people wanting to scream at each other and as with the state of the government right now who's project I'm working on, it's a basket case at the best of times In all I've proved enough this can be done though. There are a couple of things that people should consider if they give this a go though. Boxing up that dam filter is a right PITA. With molded pipework, much like the cast alloy part on the battery side, and a flex piece in to the TB, this would be easy. The other issues this then creates is how you wrap the shielding around the TB, thermostat, BOV, Pod, AC lines, cold side pressure sensor line and still somehow get air in and keep heat out. Last two issues are mounting the plastic cross piece and then the flex hose to the filter. I've had to oval out the flex piece which means during hot days in traffic that thing will want to collapse under vacuum (potentially) The other is how you hold isolate the cross piece I'd love to have got this to work but at the moment I've been beaten so that'll all be for someone else to experiment with. If anyone has any questions about this, please have a chat & ask!

Three links I'll give you; http://www.12-gaugegarage.com/blog-14/index.html http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35433 http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?s=29552897294aab90962f7e5e7e3fbdb2&t=35433&page=3

Just going to throw it open, anyone want to make a suggestion for a good "for stock" replacement?