FiftyOne

I'm not sure they are producing more torque, they'll be limited by the gearbox will they not?

Power = torque x revs. Is there something I'm missing here?

Phil knows : p

Don't believe this is a "fg" spec engine. With wider tyres, more grip & the same gearbox, the only way you can make more power while not exceeding torque limits is to spin the engine more. So if have to think the springs & rods are a tad better again? And with the extra flow due to revs, would you require a bigger turbo?

I know Pitlane where mucking around with a zd box a while back. Also tune the boxes well by all accounts. Maybe give them a buzz

Welcome to the site mate. Woah, theres a lot going on in that post. errr, lets start with the basics; - How much are you going to throw at this thing to start with? $ - How much money are you going to throw at modifications? (if any) - Do you want or need a ute? do you have a family? - Do you want an 8 or a 6?

"Warranty" Do the mods and unshackle the potential

Is that a one piece or a three piece?

I also know the fr1.20 won't clear them. The solid "clunk" when we tried to fit them told me everything. And needed another 8mm or something just to clear. Hoping the lenso is a bit more generous on the back side of the spoke

Apologies. Should have qualified that "with brembos". The Simmons fr's in a one piece won't clear, and the lenso's have the same offset. I haven't seen a brembo sticker poking through one of those rims yet that hasn't required a spacer

Also looking to see a set of lenso D1r's on a ute. Haven't seen it so not sure if it can be done

It's not actually a bad alternator? Or reg?

Hey mate, welcome to the forums. The stats on that BA sound pretty good, must have been a good find. FYI, the numbers you're talking about are reasonable for the BA. Any more than that and there are flow on issues with rods, boxes, pistons etc. I would probably recommend against your friends suggestion, I don't doubt he's tuned a good subaru, but you've got a ford. There are some shops that pretty much specialist in xr's and the knowlege base amongst them is vast. One of the tuners here is pitlane automotive (in the east). Most if not all members highly regard their work, assistance & knowledge. Maybe give them a call

Loving the build documentation. What's the theory behind using a FG arrangement over say something more specific to the B series? Considered the pros & cons?

I think there is a known issue with the rack to the K frame. Nuts come loose or something. Mine does the same, need to find time to muck around under it to check it out. I think? Phil has a post about how he fixes it. Have a search around

I'd be supportive of seeing some data out of this #thumbsup

http://www.jet-hot.com.auis in Castlemane vic. I had some exhaust bits done. Got to say, price was reasonable & the service was great You're right in what you say re the heat wrap. It's also known to crack the metal due to the different rates of cooling etc. The better solution is the thermal ceramic coat. There are the basic coatings, show coats, marrine coats and then the high performance coats. As you can expect the higher the coat performance the higher the cost, but as I said, the costs aren't that high. If you were building a race car and it was full tit at all times, you'd obviously use the 2,000c super coat straight up. Thing I came to realize is that most if not all A/M headers are coated from factory with a ceramic coat of some sort, and after time it oxidizes. A higher performance coat will probably last a little longer for 25%-50% the cost, but its really the heat cycles that do the damage. eg, cold starts etc. I've just stuck with the base ones for now, I'll see how the rest go as time goes on. Re the turbine housing, I would have liked to have had that done, but not to be this time just yet. For the housing you'd probably put the best coating you've got on straight away. If you're worried about heat, a blanket under the shield might be the better way to go for now

Guy from work (and former tickford/fpv engineer) has an fg f6 and just had them done. Highly unusual for him to go aftermarket anything on this car. But talking to guys he knew at prodrive, they recommended the shockworks. I saw it today and it looks plum at the back. Sits very nice. He also can't speak highly enough of them

What brakes are on the front? Pretty sure the turbos use the larger xr8 style caliper

Deft not on the take, they couldn't afford my body. Reasons I like them; good to deal with, Australian product, thought out, adr complient, cost comparable. If you have doubts, ring them and ask questions to your hearts content. I also found they didn't so much bag out the other products in the market, but they did highlight flaws and explained why they do things the way they do. Re the ventrui, there are a few better threads on here about how & why etc. But it is a bit of guess work I suspect, by memory I think it's a 7mm hole and one person here bored it to like 11? Consult an expert, it is something you want to consider in this as although it might not effect the running tune too much? It will more than likely run like a dog at idle

Again, I'd stick with an oil2water setup. I see too much fluctuation, both between the hot & cold days, and potential airflow issues with an air exchange arrangement. That and it could cool things down far too much. That said, if I was doing track days though, I'd either use air, or both

Only my thoughts; go a KPM injector & stick with the intank idea for the pump. Just be mindful, the venturi in the pot can choke with extra flow at idle, therefore throw the tune out down low. Minor mod to the venturi to support the increased flow may be required. Just check the pressure on the rail to see what it's doing

Gear based boost. Bam, good right there. It would be interesting to know if they could adjust other things (spark, afr etc) based on the same

Still not sure I like the external. Stable constant temps is what's required. The fact that it will drop the temp so much so quickly makes me wonder. Yes it works, but what other things are effected?

Pwr replacement is the better option. If you're super worried about heat, throw a second cooler at it but seriously, more trouble than it's worth. Stick with the replacement option