xr6tForMe

Lots of good information in this thread. Thanks all for the contributions. I suspect I will be making use of this at some time in the future as well.

I am very impressed with the way you are getting stuck into new, complex jobs and getting through them. Well done!

I have a BA front knuckle that you could borrow if that would help with putting things together, but I am near Bankstown/Liverpool.

That seems like something that very few people are likely to know. I think you might need to have the parts side by side to compare to have a good idea if they might fit. There might also be other dimensions that are different as well? Where are you located?

Is this something where new parts should be used, or they are reliable/dont wear out, so reusing second hand parts would be ok?

Sounds almost fair that a block might not be happy at 45psi /1500HP? With broken stuff, I like to try to figure out the sequence of events. If you can figure out exactly what went wrong, you have a chance of knowing what to try to upgrade. in this case I think it would be interesting to know the bore thickness at different points and how the points that have split compare to the rest? If the bores are thinner at those points, you have a "dont use any blocks with bores that thin" reference point. Would also be interesting to try to figure out where the split started from and if partial grout filling might have helped? Sounds like "Operated outside of acceptable parameters" contributed too..

Rough idle, but driving ok could be intake manifold gasket. Can test by squirting some butane at different points where the intake manifold is mounted to the head while the car is idling. If idle changes, its sucking in the gas instead of just air. Can also test disconnecting wiring to each coil while it is running to see which cylinder is not running right. If you disconnect a coil and it runs worse, that cylinder was working.

Very cool. I hope the gasket fitting goes nice and smoothly. Looking forward to hearing about the racing on Saturday!

Good morning all!

Thanks! They look like they may come in handy!

Looks like you are getting plenty done. Well done!

Not sure if any of this might help, but here goes: Are the widebands reading that AFR is ok, or would widebands be seeing rich/lean and adjusting the fueling to compensate? If there is a boost leak, does the map sensor not still see the actual boost, and the tune is still ok? eg turbo is pushing enough air to make to make 25psi, but 5 leaks out, so there is still 20psi and map sensor reports 20psi and tune is ok? Would a converter problem explain "at 50% throttle getting up to 100kph, it uses 99.9 on the dash, then if you floor it, it drops to 80 something before going back up when the boost kicks in" ? Can you log boost and injector duty cycle when it is doing "at 50% throttle getting up to 100kph, it uses 99.9 on the dash, then if you floor it, it drops to 80 something before going back up when the boost kicks in" to see that they make sense together?

Have you gotten any further with this? Re: intake manifold gasket. I replaced one recently a little while back on my BA wagon. Idle was rough, but under acceleration the engine felt close to normal. I think that is because with throttle closed, there is more vacuum and a greater proportion of air (ie way too much) gets sucked into the intake/cylinder. With throttle open, there is less vacuum to suck unmeasured air in and a greater proportion of correctly measured air going into the cylinder through the intake manifold, so the air fuel ratio is much closer to correct. Its been a long time since I had issues with coils on the BA, but I did replace them once with cheap coils and they failed quickly after replacement. I dont think I had any codes with forscan, but its a long time ago that it happened. It was a real pain because I incorrectly ruled out the coils because they had been replaced. Maybe check the plugs? See if the gaps look ok, that there are no marked from arcing down the insulator and that they all look the same colour? Using more fuel seems to indicate engine problem, rather than driveline, but I think tailshaft shaking happens worse under heavier load than under light load.

I dont think the BA gives a code for misfire?

What car do you have?