JimmyXR6T04

that's a bit rough mate!! Some standard cars are making that power!! I would take it elsewhere and see if they can do something more with it... if not, then perhaps something is terribly wrong! My car made 192rwkw standard, and then 251rwkw with edit, CAI intake. I am getting injectors tomorrow, and intercooler shortly, so with that I'm hoping to atleast get a comfy 270rwkw. Is the tuner a reputable one?? I'd seriously ask for an explanation... Perhaps some of the piping has come loose?? Get it all checked out champ, and then try again!

Cheers for the great deal Daz I might as well have stole it off you! For the people interested in installation... I can only give minimal feedback!! As my mate cant remember exact colours of wires... we really should have recorded it all down, but when beer is involved, and the excitment of working on a T is too much, basics get forgotten!! He did say that either the ignition, or the lights was a blue wire with white stripe, so that helps find at least on of the wires of the two!! Also, the O2 sensor had 2 wires the same, so that was a bit of fiddling around! The pod was easy to install, however a small piece of plastic had to be cut out from where the pod sits. This is so the boost gauge hose can fit through without too much bending and crimping. The extra bit cut out was probably only half the size of a postage stamp. so its not much, and once the pod or the cover is back on, obviously it wont be seen!

I bought the pod off a member on here.. so if he wants to mention how much for, then I will leave that to him! Gauges were $125nd $129, rmember which was what.. and installation cost me next to nothing! For around the $450 mark, if you shop around for fpv pod, you should be sweet to get it all done. Goobz, my boost gauge is mech. perhaps your install isnt quite right?? My mate made sure he had a nice tight connection, and made sure it was all sweet! As I said, hes a perfectionist! Cobra.. my afr goes from lean to rich, and back to lean to rich.. goes back and forth, however, when I give the car a bit it will stay on rich.. which is what it is meant to do. The only time it will stay on a certain area is if it is really running lean or rich. if its in the normal range then it will go back and forth. As for the front rings, I've heard contrasting views.. saying it makes it look cheap, and poxy, and also makes the set up look smaller, so I have opted to keep my current set up for the time being. I found that the surrounds on the cobalt gauges fit snug as it is. Must say, im pretty happy with the installation! and with injectors on the way, and My box with Simon for a final touch up, I cant wait!!

cheers guys! damn right it needs a clean! I didnt realise how dirty it was till I saw the photos! got thursday off work, so I guess I'll be cleaning it then! the whole car needs another good clean! gets dirty too quick!

Hey guys, I was meant to post this up ages ago, but I only just got them installed!! I was planning on doing a picture by picture, and word by word instruction... however, beer was involved and my mate was hard at work doing the job. Took him a good 4 or 5 hours, but in saying that we mucked around a bit, and he had to locate all the wires etc. He did a really top job, neat, all wiring done very professionally. He's a mechanic and has done a lot of autoelectrical work. The gauges are cobalt, boost/vacuum and afr. Looks really good when lit up! Matches the dash pretty well. Works perfectly too. They are set in an FPV pod. I remember a few people posting that they had trouble with the boost being incorrect, but my car is currently back to stock while the edit gets sorted, and the gauge reads a perfect 5psi every time I boot it. The afr reads pretty much spoton too! a good testimony to my mates perfectionist work ethic! The same cant be said for myself, as you can see the dusty dash!! suppose I better clean it. Dash did not need to be removed, and if anyone wants a full detailed description, PM me and I will try and get my mate to recollect everything he did! Doing it a second time around it would prob only take him 2 hours. The gauges would not fit in the pod properly due to the screws not aligning, so he bought some rubbery/foam type substance and inserted it into the pod, and pushed the gauges in, using some adhesive tape too. Looks perfectly snug, and no movement. He just chopped the screws off. I couldnt be happier with the work!! he didnt even want a case of beer for it... but I made sure he damn well took it, plus some cash!! heres some quick pics.

yep, $3100 is very average for 19s. Ozzy in canberra said they'd do 20s with rubber for $3500. Tempting, but I am gonna finish all my performance mods before upgrading the wheels. I've spent too much on minor cosmetics as it is!! Time to let the real fun begin! In saying that, perhaps if I approaced ozzy here in canberra and wanted to buy 2 or 3 sets of 20s, or even a a set of 19s and a set of 20s maybe they'd drop price some what.. If anyones interested, let me know and I can go ask for you.

yep, I've also blasted past one of those SS commodores... fortunately for me he had no radar, and no real idea of how fast I was going! so he could only pin me for 15km/h over. PHEW!! Now I make sure I look extra carefully!!

mine does this with edit, and standard tunes. I think a lot of people have the same situation. Mine revs to around 1800rpm then drops very quickly, say around 2 seconds. On one instance it revved to 2000rpm and stayed there for around 25 seconds, before I shut the car off and restarted... all was good then. As for the heat, I notice that in standard form, the temp gauge always gets closer to the middle. However, when I have my tune in, the temp stays a bit under half way between 1/4 and 1/2. Which is always a good thing!! I think its has something to do with how it was tuned. Either way, it can only be a good thing if the car isn't getting as hot!

decision made! I am going to keep the Blood Orange beast. The repayments on the mark2 were very similar to the current car, however I'd be paying it over another 5yr term, so really I would lose out on the near $18000 I've already paid off!! So it was simple in the end! Just the way the dealer was speaking, I thought I might actually be able to come out ahead for once!! But in the end, I think its best to keep my car, and put a T56 in it down the track, for around 7k, its worth it!! Cheers for all the input guys!

its only that much because at the time of purchase we traded my girlfriends car which she still owed nearly 10k on. In the end I've won a pretty sweet deal, she pays for half the T, and only drives it when I have had too much to drink I am under the impression that they will make me go on another 5 year term and pay around the same dollars per month, which will not be worth it. I just thought I'd try my hand at trying to upgrade to a mark2 at minimal cost! after speaking with a mechanic mate who offered his services to help install a T56 I think I will go that option. Unless something spectacular happens during this deal and I can run away with an absolute bargain (which I doubt). However, if things did work out... I think I would be willing to trade in for a white coloured auto, especially because its got 24k less kms on it!! However, this seems unlikely! I guess I will see what happens when I speak to this dealer tomorrow!! I will keep you guys informed! thanks for all the input!!

hey guys, need some advice. I went into my local ford dealer today and enquired about trading in the 2004 mark1 for a 2005 mark2. Here is my problem... I want to go further with my mods, to around 280rwkw or 300. The T5 is obviously not the best choice. The car I am being offered is a demo, has 4000km on the clock, premium audio, sports leather, climate control, etc etc. Now, I currently still owe $38,000 big ones on my current car. The dealer said that for the repayments I am making now, I can be sitting in the mark2. However, this means refinancing and I am unsure if the loan will be the same repayments over 5 years, or same repayments over the 4yrs remaining. If its the later, then I would be crazy not to jump into the mark2! my car has 28000km on the clock so far. I have a meeting with the dealer tomorrow morning so they can tell me the final figures. the only thing is, its a 4spd auto, and I would prefer the T56. However, if the price is right, and I can get away with paying off my current loan and no extra I think I'd be crazy to pass it up. It seems to good to be true though! I have a feeling they will come back and say that I need to pay my $1000 per month for a further 5 years, which will then make it a non viable situation. I would probably prefer to spend the 7k and put a t56 in the current car. What would you guys be doing??? I will post more details tomorrow when I find out the final offer!! P PS - I love my blood orange T, and trading it in would mean I would be driving a white car (taxi)

my car is lowered just under 2" probably around 1 and 3/4 inches. I used pedders, and so far im happy with both the ride and the look. Didnt need to cut bump stops. As some one else mentioned, it is a slight pain the butt trying to get into some drive ways etc. Scrapes on most things that have any real angle to them! but I guess its a compromise. sorry about the massive pic in the middle, dont know whats doing there! that's a comparison of 17s, and the 19s. hope it helps mate.

My Blood Orange Beast! Wheels are 19" chrome fusion. Lowered about 2". I'm thinking of upgrading to 20s though, and a different style, although I do like the look of the fusions. thinking of a different style though, I grow bored easily!!

hey mate, I find that my car has a weird kind of smell when I go from re-circulated air, to fresh, or if I turn the air con off after its been on re-circulated. Its just the air con. Nothing to worry about. If its that bad, just keep it on fresh. Probably doesnt cool as efficiently that way, but saves you the smell when you turn it off or change it. I usually use re-circulate, then after a while I'll use fresh for a few minutes just to get some fresh air in there. On the flip side, if you have a missus who doesnt want you doing mods.... well you could always say that the K&N filter is to get rid of that smell... she'd never know! with a CAI and filter I gained around 10rwkw. plus it sounds sweet when you back off the accelerator!! especially with 12psi of boost!!

I have a nice little white strip on my rear passanger door. Buggered if I know how my car ends up with marks and stuff!! I always park it as far away as possible, yet people must be attracted to the "bright" blood orange falcon with a 6km walk to the enterance of wherever I am!! I've almost given up! I've had a rather decent size stone dent and remove paint from the bonnet, a trolley of some description remove 5cm of paint on the rear, some kind of rock removed paint off my drivers door, annnddd now I have a bit of white transfer paint on the passenger door! Soon I might as well have one of those multicoloured panel cars!!

I had, and still do have a clunk (tap) type noise. Its been in and they said it was just the exhaust knocking on the car. They said it shouldnt cause any problems, so I left it at that!! Sounds pretty ordinary when going around a slightly bumpy corner though... I dont really take any notice, but other people do!!

I piad 125 for air fuel, and 129 for boost/vacuum. or maybe it was the other way around... cant remember. But that was when they were on special, so wait for a sale. got mine from autobahn. without discount, they sell for around 180 or 190

hey guys, I got the cobalt gauges and as stated before, I have just cut the screws and will use a piece of tyre tubing or rubber to make it all fit snug. I will post up details when she is all finished!!

hey guys, im also interested in those wheels except I want 20s by 8.5 all over. got a quote here in canberra for $3500 with rubber, but im not really willing to pay that yet as I still have my 19 fusions that I either wanted to trade, or sell private, and because they wouldnt do a trade, looks like im stuck with the 19s!! problem being, I dont really want to lose out too much on the 19s, as they're only 9 months old and in perfect condition, only done 10,000km on the rubber! Plus I still have the 17s sitting there, they only had 15,000km done on them! so I think I better use them up before going for a third set of wheels!! decision time I guess!! let me know if you guys get a good deal on them or if anyone can get a good deal on the 20s, if so, it might make my decision that much easier!!

I'll more then likely swing past for a look and cruise!! should be good!

looks good danno!! I definetly recommend getting it lowered an inch or 2! would really cap it off then mate. Its going to be a tough looking beast. If you remember my car, it has been lowered just under 2inches. havent had too many problems... car scrapes a bit more, and I have to be a bit careful. But it looks a lot better. It could actually probably be dropped another 10mm or 15mm and would look even better!! But for now it'll do.

hey zap, I removed my wing and as already stated just went to clark rubber and found some suitable grommets. Cost is next to nothing, and I have been able to see what it will look like. Once I get off my lazy behind I am going to buy an XT boot, and have it sprayed. I'll keep the XR boot for if I ever sell the car and return it to stock. I have been quoted around $150 to $200 to have the holes gapped and sprayed, but then I cant return the car to standard, so I will probably end up going for the new boot option. As for the grommets, they are basically all a perfect fit, with the exception of one... but no water has got through yet, and I've tested it with high pressure hoses and all. Hope this helps! Jimmy

hey guys, Just a quick question for those with the edit. I've notcied that when cruising downhill at speeds of 80 or above in 5th gear my L/100kms will not drop below 3.8L even with no touching of the accelerator. However, when flashed back to factory settings and cruising down the same hill at the same speeds, the litres/100km will usually drop to below 1L and often sit at 0.3L/100kms while I am not pushing the accelerator. I was wondering what the cause of this might be?? does everyone elses do the same? Could it be attributed to the fact that more fuel is being delivered due to the edit, or possibly that more fuel is being kept "on hand" incase I do give it a squirt and it is needed with the increased power?? I really have no idea, so anyone that knows, your help would be appreciated!! Even if everyone elses car with edit does the same, then I will be satisfied, I am just wondering if its just my car alone! Cheers in advance!

well, my car has been lowered almost 2 inches, so scraping is just part of the deal now!!! Its been scraped so many times, I'm wondering when the thing will become see through!! No matter how hard you try and get up and down things, some times its just inevitable! The first one really hurt!! but I guess over time you realise as long as its not blatantly obvious, no one else really sees or takes notice!! I just keep telling myself its not there!! until of course I get underneath for something!

Xrboss8, Yeah I just checked mine, it has the vac line. I guess that explains it then! I didnt really look into that much, but I sure as hell wasn't going to pay $400 for one gauge! not at this stage anyway. Perhaps if I was going to pay that much I would have got the nexus gauge, but I didnt wanna spend that much. Cheers for the info!