Cubes

Short shift it everywhere; shift around 2000-2500rpm max and get it in to top gear asap. Cracking the throttle open a little more with less rpm is better than less throttle with more rpm. Pumping losses. I've always had good results with the above in both turbo and non turbo cars. If its an auto; fuel economy is always out the window compared to a manual.

Power all the way. Nothing more satisfying when the stocker goes like the stink that causes the competitions jaw to drop.

You want maximum heat retained within the exhaust manifold and turbine housing and you want the least heat retained within the dump pipe. Wrapping the dump/front pipe in theory reduces turbine efficiency; by how much who cares I can't pick it. Wrapping of the dump/front pipes is to prevent it cooking everything around it. If you have coolant hoses around near the dump its a very bad idea not to have some form of heat shield or wrapping of the dump. Glycol sprayed in a fine mist (caused by a pin *beep* hole in a coolant hose) is extremely flammable. It will send the engine bay up in flames.

lol.. Another Joel. I have done much research but not only theoretical research but practical/data logging both on the street and dyno. Please do block your BOV and take note of the improve throttle response when grabbing that next gear as the turbo doesn't have to refill the ic piping and ic core. Having the turbo get back up to speed when running no bov is of a shorter time than it is having the turbo already up at a reasonable speed and having to refill the ic piping and ic core. No bov most definitely does have a lot to do with exhaust emissions. Block the bov off and watch the AFM go crazy on gear changes. It saws up and down which results in excess fuel being dumped in to the motor; you often notice popping and in extreme cases backfiring/acceleration surging when jumping off the throttle. Cruise at 100km/h in fourth, get some decent boost in to it than back off the throttle but not completely; feel the car accel. surge; watch the afm via data logging and wideband and you will see. Do try it. Joel.

Depends on the bov noise. If its the std twin recirc bovs then no; not a ricer. If he's strapped a sheepdog or some stupid sounding bov then yes. A ricer. Bov's only hinder performance; their only purpose is emissions and smooth drive ability. Watch what occurs to the afm voltage when you run no bov and lift off the throttle. Run an atmo bov and watch it dump fuel and attempt to stall/bog the car. Myself. I run no bov; not for the dose ricer noise but for the improved throttle response and instant torque feeling when you grab that next gear at part throttle/normal driving conditions. I've tried atmo bov to feel the difference but with an afm setup the car bogs a little on gear changes and is a pain in the arse as it always tries to stall when coming to a stop.

Bovs = Emissions and driveability thing. + ricer thing :D

I've always felt incorporating emergency braking/swerving in to the drivers test to be critical. The 2 sisters I've tought how to drive I've always had them learn how to hit the brakes hard. One of my sisters would completely lock the wheels the other wouldn't hit the brakes hard enough.

Im for restricted licences. I remember all too well how silly I was when younger. You simply do not seem to worry all that much when punting it hard, fast in fast out flat out down the straights. Now its slowish in a little squirt out cruise the straights.

Very nice.. Definitely will be swaying the missus towards one of these. :D

Just incase your not aware the castrol edge range of oils are not really '100% synthetic oils' as its derived from a grp III base stock. A group III base stock is not a man made 'synthetic'. A couple of oils that are 'real' synthetics are Mobil and Motul. Then there's the boutique redline, royal purple, amsoil etc... Its quite dissapointing some of the oil company's are able to get away with ripping off the public. Explains what I am talking about in detail. http://www.pecuniary.com/faq/oil-base-stock.html

wow. I rang MTQ and they said $250-$300. Obviously you supply the housing which means removing the turbo yourself. :S http://www.mtqes.com.au/

Nothing to see here.

Being the next VLT has absolutely nothing to do with young hoons flying around in them when they become cheap. XR6T the next 'cult' car. Definitely. It will be bigger than the VLT ever was. The VLT was born with a financially struggling holden; it wasn't exactly planned, the rb30 met the requirements at the time so they used it. The XR6T is a completely different kettle of fish. The motor has been designed from ground up by ford them selves. They them selves deserve ALL the credit unlike Holden. Expensive Daewoo made a good choice using the RB30ET in the VL... Ford has gone just that one step better by designing it them selves. :D Big thumbs up to Ford. Crazy buggers throwing a 650 capable hp turbo on a factory car. Respect where its due, there's no dispute.

Ahh spotted Glen in the last photo.

He doesn't actually say it runs out of its effieciency range at all. If its not tuned correctly it may cause detonation. Pushing a turbo out of its effiency island in to choke when changing up gear is impossible; if that were the case then at the top end of that gear it would be well and truley in to choke anyhow so its a moot point. On the note of boost spike... The only issue I'd be concerned about is using silicon hose with worm drive clamps. Start pushing 20+psi and you may very well begin to blow ic piping off during gear changes. Regardless, its generally recommended to run tbolt clamps over 20psi anyway.