boost69

Yeah this is true aye...lol...

Guys, I was just reading this article and where it talks about the G6E Turbo, there's a statement made from some big shot... "according to Ford Vice-President Asia Pacific Product Development, Tallangatta boy Trevor Worthington, there is a lot more urge that can be safely released from this motor without compromising longevity."... (it would have been good if they did actually up the power on the T since you can safely do so...I also guess that means these mtotors can handle the mods we throw at them) http://www.themotorreport.com.au/60335/2015-falcon-fgx-range-review-falcon-lpi-g6e-ecoboost-and-g6e-turbo

As silly as this might sound... (AND ASSUMING EVERYTHING OBVIOUS HAS BEEN CHECKED) I had a VR V8 back in the day when they were cool...(This was just after my 5 Speed Late model camira Turbo...for the record the turbo was a much faster car...which is why I haven't bought a V8 since)...anyway, I had these weird errors and erratic speedo and tacho problems which we couldn't diagnose. After checking the obvious such as battery and earth cables etc...it was finally found that one of the ignition leads had a small split in it, causing it to arc under heavy load...(im not really sure how this affected the instrument panel, but once the lead was changed, it fixed the problem. I totally agree that the above sounds silly, and unfounded...but maybe have a look at your coil packs, as there might be a chance they are arcing under load, and causing the issue...(I ADMIT IT IS A LONG SHOT AND I DON'T MEAN TO SEND YOU ON A WILD GOOSE CHASE)

Thanks for the advice "Ralph", I appreciate it...

Guys, I took the BF Mark II XR6T for a drive the other week, and gave it a few hits to see how it performs as I recently got it custom tuned, and the car went into limp mode, with two errors coming up; Code: U0100 - Lost Communication with the PCM Code: P0732 - Transmission Gear #2 Incorrect Ratio At this point the error has not returned and has only occured once.(though admitedly the old man drives this car mostly, so it really doesnt get pushed that much) I have rung a few tranny places, and most say that the tranny is on the the way out, (in their experience, once you get the incorrect ratio error codes the tranny is gone) and I have gotten quotes from 3 - 5.5K for a standard rebuild. (not sure why there's such a large variance...they all say pretty much everything wearable is changed, appart from the mechatronics) Other tranny places aren't that quick to diagnose, and tell you it could be allot of reasons why it's pulling that code... One tranny place told me the mechatronics unit can correct the error up to a point, so the car will drive ok for a while, but it's only a matter of time before it can't correct it anymore and then you have to overhaul it. Most tranny places know about the error, and might give you a vague explanation of what it is...supposedly low pressure and slippage, but they haven't really told me what cuases it, appart form saying it will need a an overhaul. If I have to overhaul it, then so be it, but I just wouldn't mind some advice from someone with know how, to confirm potential causes and solutions before I go ahead and spend all this money overhauling it... Anyone copped one of these errors?

They look good...only frustrating thing, is that they didn't update the interior...so sitting in one you just feel like you're sitting in an FG...I have driven the current VF SV6...and from an interior perspective it made the interior of my FG feel archaic... It makes it hard to update to an FGX from an FG, because essentially you're spending all the this money to update to a car that essentially drives, and feels exactly the same as the car you're updating from. It made sense to update from a BF to an FG....not sure if it makes sense to update from an FG to an FGX...

Drove passed NSW Police Fleet Services in Minto tonight...and they have the FGX XR6Ts ready for deployment with the same Brembo brake and FPV wheel package as the FG...spotted a silver one...looked really good...

Yeah that's the only thing about these cars...as good as the ZF is...your're always weary of the potential for it to cost you big bucks if it fails...at least with the old 4 speed (granted they are no ZF)..if it did sh$t its self, it wouldn't cost you a bomb to rebuild it, even with stronger bits... From what I have seen, if you could manage a rebuild for around the 3.5K mark, then that would be considered a good deal... I know Fords get the milkshake, but I believe allot of the BMWs get the low pressure, slipping clutches, or sticky solenoid problems... Anything you touch on these boxes is very expensive...

Out of curiosity what sort of price are you looking at for a standard rebuild on a ZF...(just freshen up everything, without beefing it up)... I have heard of quotes going as high as 5.5K...

My FG is stock and it has very good punch down low...like all FGs... Have had my BF Mark II XR6T recently tuned and it's pumping around the 250RWK mark, but it really lacks that down low pull... You really have to give it a boot full to get the car boosting, unlike the FG which requires very little throttle response to get the surge going... The tuned BF feels strong once it gets going, but you need allot of room, unlike the FG where you can give it a little squirt without having the need for a runway.... Is there any way to get that snappy boost out of the larger turbo...or we limited by the basic laws of physics...

Haven't used one...though for a dent like that might as well get it professionally fixed with a paint less dent remover guy...they're pretty good...I'm quite sure once it's done you won't be able to tell where the dent was...

Assuming battery has the voltage, then it would definitly be a connection problem...check not only battery terminal clamps, but also connections to the starter motor... From my experience with a ticking starter it has always been the battery...and I use the Optima Yellow tops too...they do have a tendency to stop working all of a sudden with no tell tale signs...I think it's due to the deep cycle characterisitcs of the battery...(don't quote me on this though...just my experience with the yellow tops). If your problem is intermitent, then it could be a connection problem...sometimes it makes proper contact, other times it doesn't, so double check every connection...

Anyone have info on quarter mile times thay have run in the their car (BF/ FG), before and after a custom tune? Just curious as to how much of an improvement a custom tune would make down the quarter. I always hear about the before and after power gains on a dyno, after a stock car is custom tuned, but haven't heard much as to what sort of improvement to quarter mile time this power difference translates too...

Lol...I actually have one of those telescopic camera things hmmm...

Yeah I do have one of those infared thermometers...so you check pre and post cat...just running at idle?...or do you need to get some revs going...

Guys, Does anyone know any definitive way you can test your cat to see if it's flowing like it should? Could symptoms of the increased back pressure on a stock BF XR6T be; 4 psi peak boost pressure? (im assuming this is 1 or 2 psi off the stock figure)Occasional pinging?These are the symptoms I have experienced, and I'm thinking it could be an exhaust restriction problem... Have looked at boost and manifold leaks and apparently AFRs are within what's normal... How can I rule out a cat converter problem?

Yeah these guys sound good and quite confident in their work. I suppose if they are good at their work, then they would be worth the good money... I will suss it out.

Does anyone know of any reputable detailers in Sydney they could recommend? Has anyone used someone that they have been really happy with?

Guys, Car has in been into Ford three times to try and resolve the rear passenger side knock, and it's still there. It's the knock that's heard over little bumps and pot holes, that others have described. (it's like a "thud" over bumps) To their credit Ford has changed diff bushes and looked at every other bush under the car, and even they are adament there is nothing that is loose under the car. They even replaced my rear passenger side shock thinking it could have been a rattling shock. It seems this knock is one of those mysteries of the universe... Is there anything else that can be causing it?...like a ball joint, or a wheel hub that is out of tolerences? I have noticed that when im applyng the brakes over the bumps it tends to muffle out the "thud" a bit.

That sounds like your DSC is cutting in...if it feels like a vibration from the front left wheel...that's intermittent as you're driving...if your DSC is playing up it can trigger the ABS to go off on a certain wheel, as it assumes a correction is needed to stabilise the car...this can feel like a grinding vibration coming from the effected wheel This assuming its nothing else more obvious Though after re reading your post I'm not so sure now...

Guys, I have attached a photo of the clear coat peeling off my brake calliper. The point of origin seems to be where there is that indentation on the calliper. Is there any chance brake fluid can be leaking from that spot? Or can anyone think of an obvious reason for the clear coat peeling? I'm contemplating trying my luck with a ford warranty claim... What are your thoughts?...fat chance I bet...lol

Yeah if there's no noise then most likely dead pump. Just get a genuine one, and it's an easy fix pulling out the the old one and replacing it. Just remove some of the plastic screws in the the inner passenger side wheel arch and its right there.

From my experience it could be steering angle sensor...I don't think the xcal will pick up a DSC error. What you need is an elm device and the forescan program whch allow you to check the DSC fault, and if it is a steering angle sensor that's off, it will allow you to recalibrate it.

I think some Mistibushi EVO guys have been able to claim flaking clearcoat off their calipers...I might just ask anyway...but I highly doubt it... VG Auto Paints in Sydney said they could match it if I gave them a flake of paint...I'm hoping someone else could be the donor...lol They actually had the code for the gold Brembos but didn't have it for the red, which I found strange as I would assume the red would be more common.

You guys think warranty would cover something like clearcoat peeling off your Brembo brakes?...Anyone tried??