boost69

Yeah biggest restriction is the cat...you will get very good gains by changing to a highflow and retuning...

Bought two cans at lunch time...will let you guys know how I go...hopefully I dont regret the purchase...

Im thinking about buying a can to hopefully alleviate my rough idle when cold problem which has been progressivley getting worse. Have any of you guys tried it? I have heard allot of good things about this product...

Yeah mines a BF Mark II XR6T ex chaser as well...came with the slotted brakes on the front...and the Bendix Ultimates...So when I had to replace the rotors I got the DBA 4000 Wiper Slots all round and also got the Bendix Ultimates all round...I think if they are good enough for the Highway Patrol and all the heavy brakig they do then it should be good enough for us... Guys just to let you know mine came with an Optima D75/25 Battery as this is what most Highway Patrol cars use and I have bought a replacement today as I like to keep the car the way I bought it...the cheapest I could find was in SA FOR $287 but asince I live in SY I would have to pay delivery costs etc...of around $40... so I just bought one from a wholesale in Sydney for $345...they run 650 CCA...

Yeah mines a BF Mark II ex chaser also have had it for two years I actually have a mate that is a mechanic at a Ford Dealership...and this made all the difference to my warranty claims...there was no arguing and trying to prove a point if something was stuffed they would just replace it. I had my mate pull the whole driveline appart and re do suspension bushes etc...he had the car at the Ford Dealership for over a week...but this problem has reared its ugly head now that my car is out of warranty...not sure what I should do since I have already cleaned the throttle body...as most mechanics would point to that beig the problem...(a dirty throttle body)...It just does it for the first 10 minutes and then calms down...driving it...it drives very well but just that idle is annoying me...

No don't have the Brembos, have the standard BF Mark II XR6T brakes ie...twin piston caliper with 322mm rotor up front and rear single piston caliper with 328mm rotor on back...rotors are DBA 4000 Wiper Slot all round... Im feeling prety confident with my brakes as they are now I can only imgine how good the Brembos would pull up...this option will be a must have on my next car...

Guys I bought my Ultimates for $176 for the front and $150 for the rear...what are you guys paying for the SRT's?

Guys I ended up putting Bendix Ultimates front and back and have DBA 4000 Wiper Slot Rotors all round. I realise they are harsher on the discs and create allot of dust but the brake bight and lack of fade after consecutive hard brake applications from highway speeds is awesome...you feel very confident that the car will pull up...From my experience I dont think you can have the best of both worlds ie...a pad that will not fade and will not create dust or chew your rotor up...I personally think you have to decide whats good for you...if you want pulling up power then be prepared for the dust and rotor wear...that's just my opnion based on experience...

Yours is an ex highway car... did it orginally have the Optima Yellow top? What battery do you have in now? Also make sure your terminals are contacting firmly with the leads...sounds like an earth leak

Guys at the moment I have the Ferodo pads on the front with the 4000 series DBA's I bought some new DBA 4000 wiper slots for the rear and was looking at a rear pad to compliment. I have the 328mm vented rotors that take the larger pad. The guy from Racebrakes Sydney told me he had a pad which was a bit better than Bendix Ultimates and less harsh on the disc so I took his advise and opted for what he recommnended.They are called DB1675-RBS2R and its the first time I have bought a non mainstream pad. Has anyone used this type of pad?

Sometimes a low oil level can cuase slippage...I have read up on the oil change instructions on the ZF website I think it was (even though the box is rated "never to be serviced")...and they have a very detailed procedure detailing how to make sure you have filled up the tranny with the correct amount of oil... it sounds quite meticulous...so there is a chance you just might need to check your oil level...

I have tried the Bendix Ultimates and have also tried the Ferodo DS pad but was wondering if anyone has tried the Racebrakes ones... Any comments are appreciated...

I have actually met up wit Aron Franklin from DBA (He is the guy on the youtube video) and he whent over my rotor set up and he was of the opinion that the mating surfaces not being clenaed properly was the reason for the uneven disc wear...though if you ask any mechanic they will tell you this is negligible...most mechanics out there would not even consider cleaning the mating surfaces...and when you insist they do they look at you like your being some podantic b$stard...so next time im changing the rotors myself...

It sounds like battery...you need to check the voltage while cranking...when my battery was gone I had no symptoms what so ever even headlights worked fine but car could didnt kick over at all...just the last time I whent to start it before it went dead the starter motor made a noise so I was convinced it was the starter motor...and I had a an Optima Deep Cycle battery on my car which are supposed to be the best on the market...so I ended up checking everything because I just assumed the battery was fine...DEFINATELY CHANGE THE BATTERY...this is most likely your problem...

Ive got the DBA 4000 Series Wiper slot on my BF Mark II and they still shudder on light brake applications on the HWY...Have used both Bendix Ulitmates and Ferodo Performance pads... Even when you lightly machine them they will be good for a while but the shudder tends to come back within 10,000KMS in my experience...

Yeah I have cleaned the throttle body twice as I also thought this could be the cause...but it really hasn't made a difference Thanks for the input though... Fluffy Mc D your not another x chaser owner are you? Mine is as an ex chaser also had it for nearly two years now and over all I have been very happy with it hasnt really skipped a beat...(curent idling glitch excluded...lol)

For the last couple of weeks my car has been idling very rough on cold starts.Its more noticeabale when the the car is in drive and your stopped at the lights.There is a tremble through the car only when its diling though after about 10 minutes of driving the rough idle subsides. Anyone have any ideas on what this could be? Ee

I had this problem too (noise at low fan settings)I think it has something to do with the fan touching the housing Ford finally replaced mine after numerous attempts to fix it the bodgy way... I dont think the genuine item is rediculously expensive I think it was under $200 from memory though dont quote me on this.

Im really liking the look of the FG as a highway car... I think the FG Chasers will be good value when they hit the auctions espcially now that they have the FPV wheels and Brembo brakes.

I have an ex chaser BF Mark II your best buying one straight from the auctions I bought mine for 19K WITH 60KMS on the clock nearly 2 years ago in April. Mine was a Mt Druitt 201 car....the 201 callsign is the Supervisor car. I actually have pictures of the car with same rago plates from when the cops had it.(with allthe cop gear on it). I would definately buy another one for the price and would definately purchase the FG serieswith the Brembo brake package when they hit the auctions .

Guys the other day I noticed the clamp on the throttle body hose was totally loose(turbo to throttle body pipe clamp)...so I tightened it as you do.... I took the car for a drive and noticed instantly it was boosting much harder...(harder than ever before)...the factory blow off valve was also much louder...I thought great until the car started going into limp mode...I assume its overboost... The car is totally stock standard...but im thinking that the clamp on the throttle body hose was probably left loose on purpose as a quick fix to a pre existing overboost problem...(Ford service dept quick fix...) At this stage I have disconnected the battery to reset the computer but to no avail...I have also checked actuator hoses...and wd40d the boost slolenoid... Any advise or suggestions is appreciated... Thanks

Guys check out this link...this is the first NSW FG HWY PATROL XR6T I have seen....it looks pretty hot with the brembos and fpv wheels... 4205243007_8b81554f72_b.jpg :: Manning Great Lakes 202 - Marked FG Xr6 Turbo :: Fotopic.Net

Guys I just bought a set of the Ferodo DS Performance pads and was wanting peoples opinions on the performance of these pads. How good is their stopping power their fade resistance and their wear on the disc rotor. I have had Bendix Ultimates previously and they have great stopping power but they were very very harsh on my disc rotor (DBA 4000)... Your opinions are appreciated...

From experience I wouldnt use the CAPA generic tunes...you might also be pinging...and if you keep giving it bootfulls on this generic tune...sooner or later your going to bend a rod...

I would say the main difference between the 245KW on the BF Mark II and the FG's 270KW...is the smaller turbo running more boost 10PSI I think it is... I believe that if you wound up the BF Mark II turbo to 10 PSI you should get more than 270KW...(being a larger turbo)... Obviously there are air inlet changes and some minor head modifications from what I have read...but the thrust of the difference I would say comes from running considerably more boost... This is just my opinion ofcourse and I am open to being corrected...