boost69
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Everything posted by boost69
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Optima Yellow Top D75/25 CA 810 CCA 650 AH 48 RC 98 Not sure if that means anything to you...lol
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I have an Opima Yellow Top D75/25 Deep Cycle battery it has 650CCA most of the Highway Patrol cars use the Optimas...Mine cost around $345...but you can probably find it cheaper if you look hard enough.
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Turbo does not have to come off...though you will get different work shops tell you different things... I bought the a genuine mount for $285 and got it fitted without turbo removal...the car idles very smooth now... In regards to your negative camber problem is this causing the DSC light to come on? In regard to your negative camber problem are you getting the DSC light go on?
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Could be limp mode due to overboost...but you said it returned to normal aftert driving it...limp mode will return to normal after the engine is turned off and on. Possibly you hit the rev limiter...
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Fuel Consumption Through The Roof - Related To Fmic?
boost69 replied to colossus's topic in General Tech
I would change the O2 sensor...(pre cat) made a difference on mine BF MARK II XR6T...O2 sensors do deteriorate over time... -
Yeah same thing happened to my bros car though it was one of the front brake hoses that ruptured...luckily it happened in a shopping centre car park...and there was a factory recall on these hoses (we found this out later)...
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Yes I would be looking at tailshaft rebalancing...I had to take it to Ford a couple of times to get it balanced and I two have had everything replaced from the gearbox back... I have a BF II xr6t also and I still cant get rid of brake shudder even after buying a new set of dba 4000 rotors...it always comes back...
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What Size Rotors On Fg Xr6T Ute - Upgrade Options
boost69 replied to rockafellqeinstien's topic in Brakes
Guys I have the DBA 4000 slotted all round with Bendix Ultimates...and I still keep getting quite severe brake shudder when stopping from speed. I have cleaned hubs when installed etc...but still I get the shudder...is there anything I can do to permanently solve my shudder problem... Sorry to Hyjac the the post... -
If I lived in your area I definatley would have taken you up on the offer...got it fixed today...I was so used to the car vribrating at idle that it actually feels weird now that its idling smooth at the lights...the rubber casing on the old mount was literally torn to shreds...
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Yeah I agree...one mechanic I asked has done allot of falcons but has never done a turbo drivers side mount...so im weary to let him do it...
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Guys I have bought a genuine engine mount but want to know what a fair price to pay is for installation here in Sydney.(ball park figure...on what people have paid) Is there anyone that you guys can recommend...I need to get this changed soon as the vribtration is starting to get anoying. Cheers...
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DRIVERS SIDE ENGINE MOUNT...TURBO MELTS THEM...HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM
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Maybe try some black shoe/boot polish that KIWI stuff you buy in Woolworths...
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Service wise I would change plugs and clean throttle body if you havent already...also look at changing petrol filter...
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Guys I have read the various posts on previous threads but just want to confirm wether the turbo needs to come out in order to change the drivers side engine mount...assuming you have we are using conventional tools...
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Fuel Filter Change Highly Recomended
boost69 replied to Adrian6T's topic in Fuel System & Induction Workshop
I bought the original Motorcraft one and got my mechanic to change it on the hoist... it took him literally less then 5 minutes...I was going to do it myself but after hearing all the horror stories on this thread I decided not to mess with it...when he spilled all the fuel out of the old filter it was literally comming out a black colour...I suppose that is the fuel filters job after all to filter out all the gunk... -
Changing my O2 sensor made my fuel consumption go from 17.6 L/100KM to mid 14-15 L/100KM with normal driving...
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I get the DSC light go on and have had this fixed by Ford under warranty but it still keeps comming back... mine tends to be a sensor in the front left steering area that keeps needing recalibration I think I was told if the wheel alignment goes out by a certain angle then it will trigger it...but this just triggers my DSC...not my ABS...
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You might have to change the rubber on your door trim...
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Excuse the spelling...
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Guys still have a persistent rough idle problem even after changing plugs,O2 sensor and cleaning throttle body...Its a BF MAark II and Im assuming that the TPS unit is not at fault because it would have the updated one and my revs dont go up and down but are constant though the car idles rough. Just wondering if a faulty PCV valve coulde be causing my problem...(car is stock)
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I have considered replacing it but I assumed the one on the BF doesnt have the problem the BA one had....my revs are quite constant...though I am running out of ideas...
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I have the same knock front left rear over bumps its like a thud...had whole rear pulled out all bushes replaced under warranty and still the thud was there though I agree with you as in it could be the top shock bush...
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I want to get my injectors cleaned...I have heard of different types of methods...fuel rail flush type and actually taking the injectors out and washing them with an ultrasonic cleaner...I would also like to know who is highly recommended in Sydney... I still have this lingering idle problem even after changing plugs, 02 sensor, cleaning throttle body...so im going down the path of cleaning injectors and changing fuel filter to try and solve this rough idle problem... Any input is appreciated...
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I just use the Ford original ones Motorcraft (made by Denso) Ford Part No:AGSP22YE09...they are pregapped to 0.8mm...my car is a stock standard BF Mark II XR6T...