boost69

Thanks, I noticed the two screws, but didn't want to take out out the light if it wasnt necessary.

Hi guys silly question...how do I change my rear brake light bulb? Does the actual whole rear light assembly need to come out?

I have a yellow top D75/25 slots right in no issues...

Appart from the severe symptoms, such as extreme loss of power and the car stalling, what are the more subtle symptoms of a faulty cat? Also if the cat is faulty would it throw a code due to the post cat o2 sensor readings? Any input is appreciated.

Thanks for the replies guys...there is no backfiring or spluttering under hard acceleration, I will check for vacum leaks and I will change the plugs, and take it from there I suppose.

Hi Guys, The last few days my car has had a slightly rougher idle than normal when cold, and I have noticed that it seems sluggish. the car is a stock standard BF Mark II XR6T. It feels like the timing is retarded or that its not bosting like it should. There are no codes being dispalyed. Im thinking it could be either the plugs or O2 sensor, or possibly loose turbo bolts...or possibly some type of vacum leak... Anyone had similar symptoms on their XR6T?

01txr, Your comments are noted and I acknowledge your point,I probably did jump the gun with making such a premature diagnosis, which was based on a prior experience.(stock car) I agree lets see what Ford says. At the end of the day, I just hope that everything works out for the best for cranny.

If the car is stock, it is covered under warranty, and it sounds like a bent rod...they will replace short motor under warranty...if its bone stock then you have nothing to worry about. My bro had his XR6T throw a rod and they gave him a whole new short motor... The emphasis is "stock"...if its stock, then its just an inconvenience of not having your car for a few weeks until they fix it... Ford usually needs to examine the engine to see how it failed, but like I said, if its stock then its just plain old engine failure...(usually caused by pinging)...and they will honour your warranty.

I had the brake light go on dimly once when I rinsed the engine bay out.The light came on dimly and I knew it was directly related to the water in the engine bay so I drove it until the engine bay dried up and the light slowly whent away...Im thinking water must have made its way into the sensor that sits on the brake master cylinder...

Actually two weeks ago when I was reversing my car out of the driveway I happen to look down at the lcd display and it had "code" displaying but the radio was working and the car was working fine...(this has never happened beofore in all the time I have had the car)...I switched the car off and started it again and the lcd display was back to normal. Have you considered disconnecting the battery for a few minutes? Or checking your connections to the battery?

Yeah my passenger side headlight does the same...sometimes it flickers other times the lowe beam doesnt work at all but when I play with the wires behind the headlight it goes on again...

Guys, For the last few months my DSC light has been constantly on. Initially when I put it in drive and start driving, the car makes a noise, like a self check noise and then the light goes on and stays on. Over the weekend I cleaned all my ABS sensors thinking it could be that, and disconnected my battery to reset everything but to no avail. Have any of you guys had this problem occur? Does it have something to do with steering angle etc??? Any help will be appreictaed.

Sounds like an electrical fault...a loose earth somewhere etc

If your car is stock it will feel very strong in first and second until mid gear in second you get thrown forward in your seat with your car going into limp mode...(unless its only over boosting by 1 or 2 psi. I have had the actuator problem... car was going hard... considerable increase in power...but most of the time it would go into limp mode in second gear...

Sounds like a hole/leak in your actuator diaphragm...it shouldn't damage the car as on a standard car the cut out is around 9PSI from my experience but it can spike over this in first gear... Get your actuator checked...assuming you have checked the boost solenoid hoses... Otherwise you can just buy a boost solenoid from Ford, and see if this rectifies the problem ...

Water in the engine bay or water vapour will do funy things to electricals...I dont think its a fuse...normally the water should evaporate and things should go back to normal...sometimes if the water is trapped the problem can keep re occuring... I think chances are it will go away the more you drive it as the heat will evaporate the water

Yeah the DBA 4000 wiper slot and Bendix Ultimates are the combination I use and the car pulls up real hard...this combination has allot of bight especially when the pads have warmed up...though in my case I have had mine skimmed twice because I have had brake shudder occur... The only downside regarding the Ultimates is the dust and the squeeling and they tend to be quite harsh on the rotors but the firm stopping power is great... As mentioned earlier for a standard replacement, this package is hard to beat...

Beltronics STI Driver or the Passport Redline...essentially the same company makes these and they have very little leakage making them undetectable. The thing is with laser guns by the time the detector goes off the police laser gun will already have a read out on you. This is why if you want total protection you need to supplement the radar detector with a jammer which will actually jam the police laser. This will involve mounting antennas on the front and rear of the car so even that will look obvious in itself. On the hand if a cop is pointing their laser gun at your car and the read out is gibberish then they are very likely to pull you over and search for a jammer anyway. If you want to pick up radar such you can have the radar detector hidden as long as its not hidden behind metal. If you want to pick up laser the radar detector has to be placed on the car where there is direct access to light (I.e. windscreen ...or dash)...hence it will be fully visible. This will make you even more paranoid about cops than if you didn’t have a radar detector and were speeding. So it’s not like you will be able to drive around at ease with the radar mounded on your dash... Then there is the scenario where you are doing the right thing and get pulled over because the cop sees it on your dash...and that carries 9 demerit points...

You should have gone the tints!!!...especially if she was showing some cleavage!!! So where exactly is this dealership...lol

I still reckon cat too...revving in neutral doesn't create the same exhaust flow as in gear driving would...from my experience with blocked cats you wont make boost and as it deteriorates further when you try and accelerate the car chokes and will even stall on you (zero power can only be driven at a snails pace)...otherwise its a vacumn leak but a vacum leak that significant will also usually affect the idle speed... you would usually get your revs go up and down at idle...

TurboTaxi its a great car regradless...if you're keen to find out more about its history you can ring NSW Police Fleet Services and quote the serial number (usually located on the under side of the boot lid or inside drivers door) and they can give you a more definitive history on the car...they will also tell you that the Highway cars have a much more stringent servicing schedule up and beyond the standard Ford servicing schedule...(they service their cars much more frequently and do much more like change the diff oil etc...)

I seen the nitro one on the Fowles website...the cop F6 cars look hot...though it would have been connected to the Taipan operation hence they work all over the place rather than one specific LAC...the Nitro one I have seen anywhere from Parramatta to Botany Bay...nice buy mate I might consider one when the next batch of ex Taipan F6's go to auction...You can see photos of the car while it was commisioned on this link if you're interested... http://www.nswhwpp.fotopic.net/p64778966.html

Hi guys just need some advice... • Can anyone confirm the price of a brand new GT35/40 unit? If so who has the most competitive price in Australia? • Also is it worth getting a reconditioned turbo (as in old housing but brand new core...) • Or would it be worth while just getting the existing turbo reconditioned... The concern relates to the difference in price of the above options. E.g., if the price difference between a reconditioned unit and a brand new unit ends up being a couple of hundred dollars after fitment then you would just bight the bullet and get a brand new unit. What are people thoughts and experience on this? Any advice is appreciated…

I reckon the car felt quicker before because you were probably hiting a higher initial boost peak which then dwindled through the rev range...this can give the impression of seat of the pants boost...rather than boost which is not initially as high but stays constant through the rev range...

Yeah from what you have described it doesnt sound like a rod as I do distinctly remember my brothers car had the taping noise consistently...I agree that it could be your oil...you have nothing to lose by changing it