boost69

Thanks for the input guys, I know about the kick down indent and the adaptive shift, but I'm more inclined to think it has something to do with throttle position input etc...I have briefly spoken to a tranny person regarding this and they mentioned something about sticky solenoids?

Guys, The last few months I have noticed by BF T seems a bit sluggish from a transmission point of view. If the car is cruising along at say 60kph, and you slightly depress the accelerator, it just stays in the same gear and hence it's not as responsive, which is quite annoying. The same type of scenario in my FG, you notice the transmission smoothly drop to the next gear and the car surges forward. I have also noticed the BF has been more reluctant to kick down when you put the pedal to the medal, and has a tendency to just stretch out the gear it was in, rather than drop to a lower gear. If by chance it does do a kick down, it won't actually rev out the lower gear first before engaging the higher gear, and will swiftly change the higher gear, before its actually revved the lower gear out. Anyone experience anything like this? Oil is full and the car has an air to oil tranny cooler... The car has done over 220K KMS...so I'm thinking it could be a wear and tear issue?

The "foreskin" program is very good, and they are continuously updating it, and chances are if it doesn't do something you want, you can probably email the developers and they will possibly put it on the next update... For the cost of the $7 elm327 device and downloading the free "foreskin" program you can do allot more than what your average scanner can do...

Sounds like seat base to me...definitely covered under warranty if you have it...the base tends to crack right where the bolts are that fix the base to the rest of the seat... If out of warranty you can weld washers to the each of the four points on the seat base...though this depends on how big the cracks are...

Thanks guys, I actually work in Parramatta so if you know anyone in the area that's decent let me know. I only have two prerequisites, that is, I want a good job done at a fair price. If a good job costs around $600 then I suppose that's the price you have to pay...

I would also consider getting your factory warranty extended for another 3 years/100,000kms...as you can still get it extended as long as you do it before the current factory warranty expires. I did this just prior to my factory warranty expiring, and got the my ford extended warranty...which is a continuation of the normal factory warranty. (It's actually registered with ford head office) It cost me around $1,900 and I have gotten reasonable use out of it...I'm quite sure it will more than pay for itself considering the FG XR6T chews out the diff bushes like there's no tomorrow. I have had no problems at all making any type of claims etc...some have also been very trivial like my drivers side window switch light flickering...

LOL

Guys, I have a few stone chips on the front bumper, anyone have any recommendations for panel shops in Sydney? If anyone has resprayed a front bar on an FG XR6T, what did cost you? Thanks.

Guys, Just letting anyone else know that might need to recalibrate their steering angle sensor that by using a cheap elm327 device and the free Forscan program I was able to recalibrate my steering angle sensor and get rid of the DSC fault light. Seems like the Forscan program can do allot more too...looks quite impressive...

Thanks mate got it working had to download the drivers...the forscan program seems really good...I was able to recalibrate my steering angle sensor and get get rid of the DSC fault code...

Guys, I bought one of these elm327 devices and downloaded the Forscan program, but cant seem to get the device to connect to the ECU. Anyone have any experience with these devices?

A faulty battery can do funny things to the air con...if voltage is low the ECU will turn off air con compressor...

I did a front wheel hub assembly on my BF...it can be done yourself if you're keen...genuine hubs are around $180 from Ford...there is a seller on ebay selling genuine ones for around $80 plus $15 postage. I also bought the retaining nut, that holds the hub onto the spindle... From memory I think the torque spec on that nut is around 280 - 300nm. I let mine go for a bit and it progressively got worse...would get loud when doing a left hand turn and the lateral load was on the drivers side... My FG also has a reasonable amount of tyre noise...so it could be your tyres....(mine are just the standard dunlops) Would also suggest that you check your wheel nuts, and make sure they aren't loose...as this can create noise as the car is driving as the rotor wobbles against the pads...

My BF II does the same...based on my experience it would most likely be the steering angle sensor. I don't know of many other places other than Ford or possibly Heasmen Steering in Tempe (Sydney)...that can actually recalibrate it. The symptoms you describe are what happens to my BF when I take it out for a spin every so often. I have had it re calibrated a few times under warranty and once out of warranty but within a few months it always comes back... I would suggest you get a wheel alignment and make sure they straighten the steering wheel so not only are the whels straight but the steering wheel is straight too... This in itself might bring the steering angle "0" position within tolerances and get rid of the DSC light. If not then Ford will be able to do the zero calibration for you.

Guys, My BF occasionally pings under hard acceleration, and I'm not sure where to start looking. If the car was running lean would that necessarily trigger an engine lean code?...or can the car still be running lean and throw no codes.... I can't see a logical reason why a stock car would be prone to pinging...(it's always run on 98) The car definitely boosts around the 5psi mark. Any suggestions are appreciated...car is stock standard... The only thing I can think of is that my DSC light is on...(steering angle sensor out of calibration)...and I have noticed the car tends to be lazy with the gear changes...not sure if this is the cars way of restricting power/torque or not allowing the tranny to select lower gears as a default safety setting (so it doesn't lose traction) when there is a DSC error... Could the car being forced to work on a higher than optimum gear cause a mechanical load on the engine and hence force the engine ping etc... Anyone have insight into this?

I have Ultimates on the BF XR6T and they have very good bight, but do squeal a bit, and are quite dusty. Though I really like them as they really give you that confident grippy stopping feel even after a few hard repeated stops. On the FG XR6T I have the SRT pad on the front and oddly enough there is not much squealing, the bight is good and they are quite dusty also. On the rear I have the standard Ford pads, and they produce very little dust at all.

I find the Meguiars Ultimate wax and Ultimate polish makes the car look pretty glossy. For over the counter products they seem fine to me. Though if you have fine clear coat scratches and swirling, which pretty much every car has, it might need a professional buff... Though it's only a matter of time before the swirls come back... There is a good Australian site which sell allot of decent stuff and can give you good advice... www.waxit.com.au

Yeah it would be a missing clip in the wheel arch plastic mould.

Yeah my FG has the supercharger sound also...Ford insists that it's quite normal...apparently there's allot of FGs that make that supercharger noise...

I would also change fuel filter.

Oh OK...fair enough.

Go buy yourself an ex chaser, chances are it will still have factory warranty too...18K should get you one...I thought you couldn't register a statutory write off in NSW, due to the post 31st Jan 2011 laws. Apparently once written off they can only be used for parts...Is this correct?

Lol...I'm keen to get one too...

I have seen them on this Australian Site; http://www.hdcarblackbox.com.au/product/blackvue-dr500g-hd.html

I have researched the BLACKVUE DR500GW, but from what I have seen they are still relatively new, though the reviews I have read talk about how the picture can become pixelated and something about the user friendliness of the menu. Also I have read some still suffer from the overheating problem that the DR400 suffered from. I believe they are Korean made, but from what I have read the DR500GW is probably one of the better non hard wired dash cams. Have you researched prices for the DR500GW?