Mixalis

I needed the piece quickly and couldn’t wait to the end of the week, so ended up doing it a different way, I’ll post it here in case anyone else needs the info. Went to Pirtek and got a 3 way 3/4” brass T fitting, and a 3/8” brass BSP screw in fitting. Cut the middle 3/4” barb off. Shaved down the thread on the screw in fitting until it sat nicely where the barb once was on the T fitting. Used silicone bronze 2.4mm filler and the TIG torch and brazed it on. Tested it out on the MightyVac and got no leaks all the way passed 30psi. Not that it really makes a difference, but was done for just over $30. Taped it up so you couldn’t tell it was brazed. Alternatively if you have the correct BSP tap on hand you could probably tap a thread into the barb Alternatively if you have the time to wait, probably just get the $50 piece above [emoji23] Michael

Perfect thanks mate I’ll express post it hopefully it gets here quick

Thank you JET Turbo! That is the one I found online - have you used this one in the past? Cheers mate

Hi all, Fortunately I think I have found my coolant leaking issue, unfortunately it broke on a Sunday Arvo. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a replacement bit that’s a bit stronger than the Ford item? I’ll try attach pic below, it’s the 3-way piece just before the top heater hose goes into the top port on the firewall. So far I have found 3/4”x3/8”x3/4” online but thought I’d ask the pros before ordering/locating

Just looked it up didn’t think it was possible in a synchro box - learn something new every day [emoji106] Cheers Gaz, yeh the pedal box itself is a very awkward shape, would have been much easier if it was firewall mounted. Pedal mod is definitely one way. Would be good to see if there’s a way to rig something up that would relocate the pedal-to-box holes, probably much easier said than done

Maybe I’m missing something but not sure how you would go about engaging the clutch while on the brakes? This is the problem I’m having too mate, thanks for the pic there I haven’t seen that one before. I think I might need to have a better look at the pedal box and see what I would be up against

Definitely need the accelerator pedal to come up, even under full brakes I can only just get to the throttle. Most aftermarket kits for other cars with similar pedal height differences are spacers that being the throttle pedal up (Focus for example). If the DBW pedal to throttle body relationship was adjustable I might have been able to make it more sensitive. Anyway I’ll see if I can rig up something if it’s possible at all, thanks all!

Manual Thanks for the reply mate, mine is a manual. Did some reading and it seems it’s just the autos that seem to have the adjustable pedals... Is there a specific model that had the adjustable accelerator?

Hi all, Have done a quick search - not sure if anyone has asked this qtn before. Has anyone figured out a way to bring the accelerator pedal a little higher than the factory position? Reason I ask is because I have found that the accelerator is a little low relative to the brake pedal - making it a little hard to blip the throttle while under braking (I plan to track the car a little bit in the future). From what I've seen, the way the pedal mounts to the pedal box is a little peculiar. I have a mill and can also fabricate, so I don't mind giving it a crack eventually, just wanted to see if anyone else has an existing solution before I have a go Cheers! Michael

Cheers Keith, just wanted to double check that one. Does the hole in the factory bolt that holds the banjo seat over the restrictor in the turbo?

Hi guys, I just removed the factory hardline out of my F6 Typhoon and replaced it with a braided kit from GCG turbos. I noticed that the AN adaptor that screws into the turbo does not actually feed all the way flush against the turbo, seems that the flared end of the adaptor must seal against the restrictor way before it uses all the thread on the adaptor. Does the Earls kit do the same thing?

Cheers Keith, so from what I understand without looking at this, where others use the deep socket and a spanner, ill have to use two 24mm spanners? I wont be able to use the deep socket until I get the banjo off and I want to take the last fitting off? Thanks for that mate, sounds like a PITA but were already on a roll with pulling this thing apart so might as well do it now before we change oil and oil filter

Hi everyone, going to resurrect this thread. Just purchased a BF Typhoon and have also bought a braided oil supply line kit, will be removing this filter as well. I have read a few times that the process is slightly more complicated in an F6 than it is in an XR6 Turbo. Is it just the oil cooler sandwich plate that's different? Is there anything else that I would specifically need to get or do to perform this on an F6? Cheers guys

So good news and bad news. Install went well over the weekend, theres obviously an order you have to put things back in so there was a bit of bolting and unbolting but weve definitely got the hang of it now. I can see the advantage of converting to a braided oil feed line kit with inline filter as the hardlines arent very forgiving, but all went well. All new gaskets throughout and managed to put the nordlock washers as well. The bad, unfortunately I was given the wrong Silicone reducer in my kit, I needed the 2.75" to standard intercooler but was given one to suit one of the bigger 76mm entry coolers. So all for one wrong part we couldnt drive it on sunday.... Managed to start it at least, air was being pushed through the intercooler piping which was good and we cleared the wastegate code off the ECU. So now just going to do an oil change while its all up there on stands Off to the suspension thread now as the rear suspension needs to be looked at now to get this car ready for the road!

Psyched mate psyched!!