Power

You reckon Easily.

Ahh haa. Much appreciated. I want both so it looks like the dear one.

Do they all work out 0-60mph, or can they also read 0-100kph?

Are they also used in the BMW M3 (6cyl version) and new M5 (v10)? Any idea? I've heard of problems with these boxes in both cases and know a driver of both cars quite well. EDIT: I'll ask him to get me the box types anyway next time I see him if no one knows. The 'sealed unit' issue also concerns me - no serious box mods possible? The V10 M5 has a seven speed SMG box, not sure what type the M3 is but as its a sequential manual gearbox I'd assume its not a ZF. Thanks for that! I was very interested in that one. I tell you so many of my mates are (rich pricks - lol) who drive high-end euro cars etc and it's really interesting to hear all the problems. I almost laughed my ass off when the M3/M5 guy was telling me about his gearbox problems and his knowledge of others with similar problems and the BMW response being about "within specification". Now how many times do we see posts about our beloved XR6T and Ford Dealers "within spec"? Seems no matter what you buy you are screwed! BMW quality eh?

Are they also used in the BMW M3 (6cyl version) and new M5 (v10)? Any idea? I've heard of problems with these boxes in both cases and know a driver of both cars quite well. EDIT: I'll ask him to get me the box types anyway next time I see him if no one knows. The 'sealed unit' issue also concerns me - no serious box mods possible?

If you pour metho onto one hand and water onto another hand which hand feels colder? The metho evaporates very quickly so in effect it would provide a better effect spraying onto a cooler. Only problem is, are you that keen on spraying a highly flammable substance towards the front of an engine?? There's a lot of info about this if you go searching e.g. google. Some recommend 50/50 alcholol (metho for example) and water. Others talk about gases e.g. NOS for the same purpose (at great expense!). I agree that I would be worried! Ice water seems to be a popular solution, or even ice if you have an intercooler mounted in the right place for this purpose (ie. under bonnet with bonnet intake). Here's a random link that talks about ice water which I had thought was a great idea but it says this is not the case: http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/tipintersprays.htm Maybe someone has tried to mix metho/water in the real world?

Amazing sound, amazing time! What was the 60' on the 10.20? I think it looks like 1.606 on the slower (10.45?) run. 60ft on the 10.2 was a 1.57 nothing special have done a faster 60ft was just testing things 1.57 is special for an XR6T....better?

Amazing sound, amazing time! What was the 60' on the 10.20? I think it looks like 1.606 on the slower (10.45?) run.

But doesn't my MkII already have dual VCT - I am sure! dual nock sensors...? It always idles at 550rpm already: When stock and now at Phase II! Anyone else? EDIT: No idea where Team Anti-Hoff cam from, but it's always been there - lol . So maybe here's an attachment one of you anti-hoff guys might like.

Does anyone know the capabilities of the ZF 6spd box? e.g. handles torque better? What other cars use it....it's not the M3 / M5 box is it - lot's of problems for BMW that you don't hear about (funny that)? Any specs apart from ratios? Any links? Thanks!

You'll notice that whatevet the percentage increase in torque is, at any given rpm point, that that same percentage increase applies to the power as well.. Ok, so it has tractive effort stated, and just after 120km/h the TE curve flattens, this is most likely about 500 rpm after max torque... But it doesn't really matter because tractive effort doesn't need an rpm value to convert anyway. Lets take 6500 as your true max tractive effort, about 10km/h before the curve flattens. Torque = (rolling radius x Tractive effort) / total reduction x 1000 T = (300mm x 6500N) / 3730 T = 523nm at the rear wheels. Which is a damn good effort. I take rolling radius as this. You have 245/40/18's, total diameter is 25.5 inches. Minus an inch for tyres with a profile of 40 or more, running between 35- 45psi in the tyres. For working it out with lower profile tyres, take less than an inch. Say, 1 - 2 cm depending on just how low the profile and how much pressure is in the tyres. If you are on the dyno, simply measure it! Get a square, stick it ontop of the tyre and measure from the square to the ground. Easy! So 300mm is a nice, non fudged round number to use for this calculation... So that's it, you have nearly 530 tooheys news pushing your car allong.... What's the rolling radius for Dunlop SP300A's 235/45/17 ? Thanks. EDIT: 39-40.5 psi at rears

Name them! Let's not let their 'we luve youse all' advertsing BS fool us. Personaly, in this case I agree. The least you should have done is have several security guards with automatic weapons and RPG's watching the jetski 24/7. Really.

Caltex and Ampol is exactly the same fuel. Not sure what you mean by 'AMPOL premium' though, is that Vortex gold? If so. it's the 95 RON stuff. If not, the normal unleaded is only 91. Agree - same gas I believe. Probably just the GMH vehicle.

What bugs me is that the prices are not on the signs in NSW (and I assume elsewhere in Australia?) for premium stuff. So you can't just do a drive-by.

Damn it! Didn't register for this as I was waiting 'till the 12th hour to see if I could make my 1st xr6turbo.com cruise. Unfortunately my other hobby is lifting big weight. I screwed my upper back/shoulder and have been on ice (literally) since Friday. Then my newest of three kids (4 weeks) got the snuffles...<sigh> Looks like it was a great event. Hope to join the next one.

Couldn't be the same in Queensland, as BP and Caltex both have refineries in Brisbane, and are in direct competition to each other. Maybe in other states things differ. For example, in WA, only BP has a Refinery, so MAYBE Caltex sources the stock fuel from BP, but then, they would put in their own additives. What happens in Sydney I wonder? BP don't have a refinery there do they, just Shell and Caltex? Agreed, although not in all areas. Two guys I work with now (senior in my Coy, one is our CEO) are ex-Shell and the CEO was very much top tier Shell executive. They both confirm much brand similarity or even indentical gas used at different brand bowsers. Of course they also reckon Optimax is the best in most cases - lol. I also find, as you all will, that if you search threads every brand gives better performance, economy, and so on depending on the poster. Same for other forums for other cars. One day, maybe, we will see some SCIENCE to prove one is better than the other. Even though I remain unconvinced, as I've already posted in a few thread, Caltex seem to guarantee a MINIMUM research octane number (RON) of 95 (Vortex) & 98 (Vortex 98). So I use Vortex 98 and the Phase II was tuned with this - but I may change as in Sydney it is certainly over the top in price in most cases, as compared to all the others.

And...where did you get that decal, or is it a custom paint job? I'd love to know.

I agree. Wait 'till after your 3,000K 'peace of mind' service with Ford. TEST the car as hard as possible during this phase to see if it's going to break and then go for it. I did.

Running the stock intercooler as I do, it's the limiting factor in the Phase II mod and the only reason it can't be tuned to 300rwkw (well it can if you want to take huge risks). So, I've been reading these types of threads for a while with great interest, as a temporary measure to keep IC temp down and not lose a few kw after a few back to back runs on the (private) road. I'm even considering it for the Phase III when I get to that even with that large APS intercooler. It makes sense to me as a layman, but searching the net for info I found a few key points: 1) Boost is not the method people are using to initiate the spray, it's generally measurement of IC temp v ambient temp. More complex of course and some electronics required but I gather if you were handy with vero-board and some soldering you could DIY this as well. 2) Water spray is claimed to be effective only for racing, endurance, rally but not for drag racing. Not enough evaporation/time to get temp down apparently. Comments from guys doing significant tests such as "Under conditions where temps would normally take 2-3 minutes of steady driving to recover (w/o misters) I see recovery times of 30-45 seconds" make me wonder too as the drag is going to take a fraction of that time. This article is probably the most relevant overall and gives reasoning for what works and won't, you can find many more if you look: http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/tipintersprays.htm It does seem to indicate iced water as a possible solution for drag racing so there you go. 3) Others are recommending 50/50 alcohol/water (to get the all important evaporation). Someone in this thread said 10% or something of metho, what do you think about the safety of 50%??? 4) I would love to hear REAL LIFE drag racing results from someone like Geea who uses the water spray as to wether he truly feels it takes some tenths of his times - has it been tested? Thanks!

Should look at tightening crossmember bolts, low speed turns like parking <bump, creak>. Non warranty - what a load of.

Doh! There goes my theory on understanding dyno readings Oh yeah....must pay attention - lol

hope this works Almost forgot! Auto or Manual? (doesn't show gear etc on dyno). I'm guessing it would havfe to be a manual with that curve! I am guessing so too? Your reasoning is....?

hope this works Almost forgot! Auto or Manual? (doesn't show gear etc on dyno).

After all that, maybe you should post up the name of this dealership too. Also nice to know where not to go!

Can't find any of the threads on this either. Oh well. I have heard Ford will fit an aux input for very little $. Also someone posted a DIY guide (can't find the thread so can't give them the credit, but anyway their eMail address is on every page!). I attached this persons guide that I saved, maybe it's of some interest. DIY_Aux_Audio_Input_for_BA_Falcon.pdf