Power

No, the large colour screen - premium. Doesn't drop BACK to 3. If you wind the volume to zero and switch off the car, it starts at 3 when you restart the car. Any higher levels than 3 when you switch off the car, it starts at that higher level - fair enough! I can't remember it being like this when I first had the car (then again, memory fades), but certainly for some time now. It's no biggie, just one of those anoyances.

Damn, should have done this with the recent transplant. I wonder if painting it yellow would reduce the power output, or would it make the engine 'feel' more attractive and therefore happier, perhaps even more responsive to my own sexual energy when driving it hard (lol)? Very deep insight there turbotrana, I have much to learn.

Ahh ha, we have an Audio forum, should have posted there.

Nah, if the volume level when I turned the car on was what is was when I turned the car off I'd quit my bitchin'. If I have the volume at 5, 10, 15 or whatever, and turn off the car: When I restart the car it is the same as when I turned it off I.e. 5,10,15. The thing driving me nuts is that if I have the volume wound down to 0 (or 1,2), when I restart the car it has a volume level increased to 3. Make sense? I'm assuming there is some way of changing this behaviour like so many other things such as seat belt reminders and so forth.....

It's been a while since I bought this thing 2005 BA MKII, but I'm sure the sound system is referred to as Premium Audio. What drives me nuts is that when you start the car, it always goes to a very low volume setting of 3, radio or CD stacker. Now the obvious answer is just to turn it off, but ffs there must be a 'trick' to have it stay at 0 if I turn the car off at 0 and then start it again? Cheers.

Yes, a much better sound. Love your humour! Thanks BTW.

I originally had a standard Ford pump (of course!) and had a Walbro fitted to the standard caddy by others who will remain nameless. No end of trouble, and ultimately even found one of the stock fuel lines were cracked in the assembly and kindly replaced 'under warranty', sort of expressed as a favour as I took it - shheeesh! Still perhaps remained a problem.... Got a REALLY nice setup installed by C&V who went back to the standard Ford pump in tank (whole assembly new) and pulled out the Walbro assembly with the fix including an ugly clamp... C&V added a 2L surge tank low on the passenger side of the engine bay low at the firewall with Bosch 044. Very nice! Agree re noise - WOW! As someone asked me recently, does that thing have a supercharger installed - ha ha ha. Fun to begin with as it adds some noise 'bling' but it does get to you, particualrly as a daily driver and family car! I'll no doubt get some rubber mounts for the pump, and am sure C&V would do this anyway. Talk to Jeff or Con about this one (sedan).

Insurance? Not an insurable event I'm afraid. Car wasn't a 'Ford' so to speak for a long time, so no warranty of course.

No prob. Sent PM to admin, re-sent to you! Cheers.

Sent to your account as per PM. Hope it helps! Great site.

I hate them too. With my daily friver tune @ >350rwkw, I exceed 1,000Nm torque. Tuner specification was a street car #1, occasssional (maybe drag), so we have TORQUE + MORE TORQUE. I hate this too! It's embarrassing when I thinbk of the few cars that tried to get *ME* to give them 'a go', things like current model Porsche Carrerra S (I felt so sorry for him, it was sad, I don't like to see guys look so ...crippled...), and a few others of this type. I hate these cars. The emotional ramifications that may be wrought upon the 'nice guys' like me, could have you looking for councelling and medical care. Too true. These cars are crap, as they destroy weak egos, and for those of us that are lovin' carin' humans - the body count <sniff, sob>...................................................................................................................................................................[sorry, had to take deep breaths to stop crying].......................................................................................................the body count and the ego damage done to those poor loving humans in their beautiful, yet pathetic machibery, is too much for us 'nice guys' AND 'NICE GIRLS?'. I see your point. The XR6T and related FPV range, is a bad buy: untold human tradgedy is a side-effect.

Yeah, similar. Just MUCH worse e.g. similar damage to the cast aluminium that your pics show, but also massive block damage that I could (literaly) put my arm through! Windage tray spitting out the bottom of the sump. Also later, found the most fantastic (and expensive) APS CAT was cinders and dust - go to the Autotech site and look for the APS link. Head was 'ok-ish' with damaged valves replaced and a bit of work done $$$$$ Crank was stuffed as conrods neatly ground a spot here and there. Wanted to go stock or maybe F6 with LPG rods, but really, so much effort for the mechanically challenged like me It wasn't much more to go Atmoic everything, as I did. And this means I can now go silly, rather than stay with the "smart power" and so forth of APS systems and the very short time I added a non-APS cooler prior to kaboom. So, happy now by NO BLOODY CHOICE mind you. Cheers

Still the best bang for buck you can buy, near 'supercar' performance' stock, and a family size car to boot! Niggling quality issues? Well I've HEARD plenty, but for me fit 'n finish has been excellent...perfect...BA MKII 2005. Only issue is the special feature included in all BA models I.e. the leaking rear diff pan seal, may try this as my first warranty issue! Brakes: Let me start by saying I have little knowledge in regard to this subject, as with STANDARD brakes I never experienced ANY of the issues so many have apparently had to deal with. Then again, tuners, other 'T' & 'FPV' drivers often said when driving my car, "so, you got the premium brake package, eh?"....err no. Just lucky I guess. Funny, I've just upgraded the front end, don't really know why... Apart from that... Just friggin buy one, but make sure you order it with the smile & adrenaline rush that won't go away, and the belly laugh at the jap cars, when like me you can throw three kids in the back, chuck the minister for finance in the front, pack the boot with toys, eskis and food for a week, and USE it as an AUSSIE car. Then....if you want a supercar, that's another story. Be very careful, but it can be done (lots of $ & tears unless you do a lot of research outside the Internet). And once again, bang for buck if you are lucky (.......) is unbelievable!

I strongly recommend (after much research) that you take what is said in thse forusm with a grain of salt. Including my opinion which I will give you in any case. So many have had last memory of bald OEM tyres & WOW these new ones are great. Also tyre presures (go bu an accurate) gage, as I have found even in similar tyre sizes/design/construction, that psi has vastly differeing effects. The other issue is (a) straight line 0-100 kmh or whatver, vs say cornering ability. I feel you would be better served, getting copies of not only AUSTRALIAN magazine reviews, but also o/s especially USA tyre test reports - a lot better info. If you want my opinion (and as you probably gathered from my prologue - opinions are like arseholes, evryone has one). I have 2 advantages in thinking about what I ahve to say, as: 1) I sell high-end software to the Tyre & MEchncial Industry (mainly tyre from retreader-wholesaler-retailer indepnednets & multibranch Companies or large Franchises (including ALL the big names, they all use my software) - So, being an enthusiast I get to hear the truth, problems, things the public don't hear about 2) I lsiten to the forums, and have found some intelligent commentary, but also a lot of embarrasing crap) - So I look at lots of trade magazines and as I mentioned car test magazines worlwide. Recently I upggrdaded my 17" x 7.5" standard /BA MKII rims to 18" x 8.5" front and 18" x 9.5" rear. Tyres I selected, regardless of price where Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 235/40/18 front & 265/35/18 rear. One word - AWESOME! I have also used in 17" - Yokohama ADVAN Sport AVS103 but the straight line dry traction (despite a softer compund) is a world away. I have also used in 17: - OEM Dunlop SP3000A - not bad, not high performamce! If you aare looking for tyres (I can only handle maybe 1 inqyuire a day at the extreme) - I may be able to point you to the right dealer. Cheers,

I've got the BA tech manual on CD-ROM. Call me (Send you PM - would have to be soon). I can np doubt give you what you want! JL Makes sense. Any electrical wholesalser *froma past life, but maybe the name have nit changed) such as Lawrence & HAnsen, Auslec (ALH Group), TLS and so many more have a plethora of quick-grip solderless/crimp and other connectors......maybe this is what you need? Anyway - PM semt.

I thought this post would die, having said I don't wish to participate. I surely trust you are not referring to me, of course not. Perhaps you would like me to post the dates and amount of time my car has beenback since recent upgrade and prior (including a 34 day long...fix). I think that would be an awful and unfair post. But, if it is the track you wish to follow, well, so be it. Here we go, when I have some time we will go down this track. EDIT TO POST: And yes, no doubt such issues on a long term basis, might lead to a situation such as mine, as you are saying. And I agree also the car should not be detonating after leaving the shop, let's say after a service and retune especially! Thanks for the clarification in writing, I do appreciate that. It's the sort of information that really helps me tremendously.

Mate, I'm the most verbose fella I know - lol! I believe the T is rock solid. Moreso in later models, and moreso in BF/Typhoon (LPG rods). But my personal opinion is that this is not the issue. If you are considering modifications just ensure they are done right by the right people and you will also be...right! If it isn't right, take it back until it is right, even if this means every other day, or for long periods of time as may occur. If you don't maybe you could end up with a situation like mine which is probably nothing at all to do with all the BS in this thread and my following posts. All your other answers are in the thread. To clarify, no I did not 'fang' it prior or after the round-a-bout. I'll no doubt have more info at a later date with extensive photography and item by item engineering reports by accredited independent engineers. I believe it will be an interesting post. Some time yet. Gonna let it sleep for now, a sleeping rabid dog sort of sleep. In any case, all I really wanted to know was where to look, I looked, 'it' isn't there any more, not any of it. Topic has gone askew, asked and answered with thanks to all who helped - which was everyone! Cheers all!

Well, it was found to have some issue with a cracked piece of line around the Walbro after I drove it Sydney>QLD>Sydney shortly after the new setup and the car behaved strangely, but that was fixed I gather.

All parts installed and supplied by Autotech, all service of any type, all tuning of course. (Only time anywhere else was at Ford for the 1,500km 'service' post purchase). The Process West I/C was at a guess about 3,500km ago when I moved from APS Phase II, at around 28,000km when I had my 30,000km service I think, and yes retuned. They also did the turbo wastegate/actuator stuff at the same time & the Walbro in tank pump.

Tune right on the edge? With the hardware list installed and a quality AUTOTECH installation start to finish and a quality AUTOTECH tune, you wouldn't expect a tune 'right on the edge',would you...assuming it was tuned properly, and didn't suffer long term abuse from 'issues' of course, making the engine itself sloooooowly become the 'fuse'. Bad fuel. No. I do not believe so in this case, most definately not, it would have made no difference anyway in hindsight - hindsight is a wonderful thing Cheers mate! More later.

Well, actually, having not slept at all last night, I had time to think on this. The CAI is of course the APS PHII job which is as you say, a headlight intake, to an airbox that would hold litres of water, then through K&N filter 'n oil (in my case) - no, not that. BUT, of course, we are all thinking intakes, but intakes go to compressors, go to coolers........but a cooler should be high pressure OUT no way water getting IN there (!)...busted hoses, nah, anyway nice thoughts. I know why, trust me I know why this has happened, and it isn't water.

Yep, I have no doubt at all that the rods have been given hell, and why. What chance the head is still good, really (like 50/50?), given that it appears from what I have been told that a rod and piston have gone though the block & sump?

Yep, some familiar looking bits there.

Car has 32,000km (post edit - 31,623km total on odometer, purchased new from Ford and modified thereafter). I won't comment on tune etc at this time. Cheers.

I'm no mechanic, but the bits in top of 2nd photo look awfully like piston to me - agree?