AdamIan69

Well that's ordinary

Oddesy battery would be a good one. But weight could make postage a pain.

The police also put a temp gun on them. A cat runs very very hot, and will obviously not run as hot with the catylist gutted.

I am running cats and have 410rwkw.

Yep stay with them mate, ask to hear another manual in there workshop and compare for yourself. You checked the oil level? As said before it does sound like roll over noise. You can also buy an oil sample bottle and get the oil analysed. They will tell you what types of metal is wearing and the metal count. Your local caterpillar or Komatsu do it for around $20.

I am looking at who is going to make my job more secure Long Term. If business does well then employees do well. A mixture of both parties is good as it keeps businesses honest. NBN is purely a luxury IMO. I don't see it keeping my friends and family out of the red.

Haha, No. TruTrac or Kazz

If it is a two wheel drive, you could put a higher ratio diff in it with our being too expensive. Around $500 for gears plus install.

Odyssey batterys

Yep as ratter said it doesn't read fuel pressure but it does show your short and long term fuel trims. How did you go with those checks in my earlier post?

Yep, sometimes it asks you what make the car is for particular codes such as a dmax fuel leak fault. I will check if it reads fuel pressure on the Fg when I get home. Never the less it does read fuel pressure when it is supported by the vehicle ECM. I'm not here to sell products but I can get them cheap if people want them. Back to the subject at hand. I think that the CReader will give you the info needed to narrow the low power fault down. Or you could buy an Xcal for $700 off a tuner and read your sensor outputs with that.

The CReader reads fuel pressure, boost pressure, vacuum, oil pressure, oil temps, coolant temps an heaps of other stuff. It gives you fault codes and a description. It won't read cars before 2004, as they were before the new legislation saying that all cars must have the same OBD2.

Agreed, even a snap on diagnostic tool will miss codes on some cars. There is a lot if crap tools, but I use a "CReader" diagnostic tool and I am able to diagnose every problem I have found "so far". I recommend them to every tuner and car owner as they are small and so easy to use. And for $90-$140 it is worth around an hour of labour.

Ye bud that is a good price.

If you don't mind spending money in the car I would suggest you a buy a OBD 2 port scanner. I can supply the same model I use for around $90 including freight. Or go to your local repco dealer and grab a good one for around $140 bucks. It will read 98% of what the computer in the car reads. If you have an Xcal you can also use that to read sensor outputs in real time. I think there worth it considering a mechanics labour rate.

Sorry I just read my post. I didnt mean to be rude. There is allot of good tuners out there. But I have only delt with XFT on the tune and problem solving side of things. Ratter is a very helpful bloke on this forum (when he doesn't give a "your wrong answer" lol) and is willing to hand out a lot of useful information when asked.

Haha clean mirror is key...

Tools and definatly Salmon.

There is a rule of thumb to only run genuine spark plugs aswell. I have not had a bad experience as I do run genuine plugs but other people have had problems... Even with platinum and iridium plugs.

I would have thought 12psi would open a 12psi actuator. Where do you live? WA perth? I have a OBD diagnostic tool we could throw on it, that will tell you what the boost is doing. It will also throw an engine code and go limp if over boosted. Pull your Neg terminal off for a few minutes or overnight and see how it goes in the morning, this will clear any fault codes stored and a limp mode if it activated. As people have said already, it could be anything. Is your air filter blocked? I pulled a plastic bag out of a mates BA turbo ute air cleaner box. Is you boost solenoid getting power continuously? How much shaft play is in the turbo? There should a bees dick of play and no more. Does the turbo spin freely when spun by hand? Pull your engine oil filler cap off while idling and check how much blowby comes out the hole. My FG turbo 84000km has next to nothing. Then give it a rev while slipping the clutch a small amount while you got the hand brake on. This will get the turbo boosting. Pull all the spark plugs and check what colour they are. White is lean on fuel black is over fuelling, is the earth tab eroding? Black could mean it has low boost, a faulty plug/coil. Is the white insulator cracked around the body of the plug? I would start with these simple checks before handing it over to a tuner. A good tuner will be very helpful over the phone. XFT definatly is. Hope you find it mate.

Maccas. my mr whippy van doesn't freeze the icecream quite enough. His variety is good though.

COP!!! Aaarrrhhhh sh*t....

I found in my g6e turbo that I have never done a single spinner from accelerating too hard. It has always kicked double leggars. I found that it is only when the car is going through a "snakey" that the G6E diff will spin one wheel 50% of the time but only when the rear end is sliding to the left, it will then kick double again when the ass slides to the right which makes getting the car under control from a out of control situation a bit of a mission. So IMO I don't think a LSD/locker(trutrac) will help in keeping the tyres from spinning, but it will help stop the car from performing differently when sliding from one side to the other. I have not had much experience in finding grippy tyre as I always buy one of the cheaper tyre brands for the rear. My G6E T is making about 400-410rwkw(made 380rwkw while spinning the tyres 600rpm faster then the dyno rollers and was told that would be about 30rwkw of loss) and I think that the main reason why my tyres break loose while driving hard is that I have had the G/box tuned and it now changes up gears very firmly, therefore starting the tyre spin.

What they said...