AdamIan69

I am running a standard G6ET tailshaft and I have not twisted it yet. I think that if you keep the stock tyres sizes, the tyres will spin before twisting the shaft or breaking the box. I would concentrate on putting loctite on the flex plate bolts and torque convertor bolts first. Loctite "stud lock" will work a treat. My 2c anyway.

You'll get more induction noise. Slightly better spool. If the car is stock then I would leave it. The standard air filters have a smaller micron rating then k&n. If you do change to k&n ensure to keep it clean and oiled as the oil catches all the small particles. Just my 2cents.

Arronm, what brand cooler is this? and where did you get her from. It looks horn.

Car developed a rattle yesterday, so I pulled the ZF 6Speed out this morning to check out the flex plate. 3 bolts out of 6 came completely out of the crank and were lying behind the torque convertor! The other three were loose. I was very close to snapping bolts off in the crank on this occasion :/. Will order a intune motorsport unit tomorrow along with a rear main seal and the rear core plug. I cant believe ford would Loctite the drive shaft bolts and not the flex plate or Torque convertor bolts. I think an engineer owes a carton or two for this mistake.

How is the flex plate treating you? Worth the money?

My g6et has just started playing the same noise. Guess what I get to do tomorrow.... :'/

I got a gtx3582 from rob at CMS for 1500 mate. Less expensive and a more responsive turbo then the to4z. And rolling in 400rwkw at 90kmhr will send you side ways on some not so grippy roads :/

The gt35/40 is ok. But it depends how you spoke to them bud. If you said you want 400rwkw with drivability and everything else people normally say when they walk into a performance shop then the gtx will out perform the gt35/40 when it comes to lag.

How many km's on the car? If its a few and there is no oil catch can plumbed in between to PVC valve and intake the butterfly in the throttle body. When slowing down using engine braking the vacuum in the intake becomes very high and it will pull your butterfly closed causing it to stick there on the burnt oil ( from the PVC ). You can test this by slowing down with your brakes and not your gears. A bit of throttle body cleaner does the trick. Don't worry to much. You can still steer the car when stalled at 100kmhr. Although I doubt that will happen with your problem.

If it is a decent leak which it sounds like it is, then spray your intake circuit with start ya bastard or throttle body cleaner. These products are very flammable and will increase your idle if sucked into the engine. If your idle changes when you spray a certain area then that's where it will be leaking from. Keep it away from paint work.

From your last post, I would probably recommend a 1.28 rear housing. I have no experience in this turbo, but you sound like your hungry for power so don't hold back mate , just do it.

The port opposite to the trumpet will be your plumb back port. The port opposite to the vacuum hose fitting is your pressure port. But put it on back if you like, it won't hurt. . Some people will say that blow off valves sound better when put on backwards.

Sweet, I shall give it a go.

Is this E85 compatible hunter?

An 044 will supply fuel to about 660 horses. http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category10_1.htm

That is better I assure you !

Nah they won't fit, sell them to me

I haven't checked the oil level in my trany yet, but I would start with jacking the car up and there should be a plug about half way up the gear box in one side. Oil level needs to be at the bottom of that hole and no more. I would of thought your tans oil would be darker then that, more like a dark red. A leak that big would be pretty evident IMO. It looks like fresh engine oil to me.

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Are you meaning to say that there is no problem with speed limits and it is the driver not driving to conditions? If drivers drove to conditions then we would have higher speed limits on highways. I guess this comes back to an education.

If a car can't do 100km, then don't go on a road that has a 100km/hr speed limit. If your car cannot do the speed limit on ANY road while taking into account the yellow triangle signs that suggest a speed to take a particular corner at, then take the car off the road! Make it road worthy and return it to the road and do the speed limit. A manufacturer will not bring a car into the market that doesn't have those capability's. If a car can do all of these things while the weather is at least 85% clear and the driver does not go the speed limit then the driver is the problem. The best thing that I will do after giving my children a driving education is ensure there car is fitted with good shocks and springs, good bushes all round the suspension system, good brakes, a wheel alignment, proper inspection of tyres and I will not buy the cheapest tyres if the shelf. Give every other driver a break and take a taxi.

I spent well into 10k parts for my BA gt. All the bolts ons one can think of. It made just on 300rwkw. With no blower, and became a pig to drive. A standard BA bf xr8 had a rev limiter that was too low for any hard performance. So the first thing to do is give it a tune. I also put 4:11 gears in the diff which helped a *^%# load!

Turbo.... Unreliable.... These two words shouldn't be in the same sentence.

I love the 82r and will net you about 410wkw with the right sustaining mods. But I have an auto. Others like the 76r and will net you around 360wkw with the right sustains mods. The 82r is on full boost by 2600rpm. The 76r I cannot comment on.