AdamIan69

14.7 is too high. I would start with replacing the reg in the alternator before I changed a fuel pump or bang a second hand alternator it as a new unit will cost you an arm and a leg. You want about 13.5v while the engine is running.

What made your insurer choose to spend 4k on repairing a diff to the extent you describe? When you can buy a complete second hand assembly for easily under 2k installed... You could try putting new and correct LSD oil in it. And replace both rear wheel bearings. I would probably do the side you smacked first. The bearing cup in that side will surely have a dent in it.

It is intermittent, so a blocked suction screen that drops the dirt out of the screen while the car is turned off. Then it gradually picks dirt up and then the car slowly looses power as it gets more and more blocked again. The engine will usually cough under acceleration and return to normal when de accelerating. Is there a relationship between the car stalling and the fuel level?

I thought fuel pumps just stop. Or loose the ability to make pressure gradually. I have not known one to be intermittent. But there maybe be some one who has seen this. If it does stop again, pm me and I will give you the wiring diagram for the fuel system. Then you will need to check all the connections in the fuel pump electrical circuit. Like relay terminals , fuse connectors and fuel pump connectors etc.

Over boost problem. I would do the following (I am not a tuner) Check map sensor plug Check hose too waste gate and valve. Test pneumatic "normally closed" valve before wastegate-(common problem) ""Connect a computer to the obd2 port and watch boost increase on the screen as you drive"" Connect a pressure gauge to manifold to verify what the obd2 port is telling you. Check flapper valve is not seized and that it can open "fully". Pressure test waste gate diaphragm and connecting hoses at turbo, ensure waste gate operates correctly with flapper valve still attached to actuator rod. Blow workshop air backward through barbed fitting on turbo. The way I see it, there "will" be a fault at one of those points. How can he spend a week diagnosing this? Even if there was other cars in the workshop. Are you sure it was the intake manifold gasket he replaced and not the exhaust manifold gasket? "If" he removed the turbo then he may have not put the clip on that holds the rod on the flapper or he may have bent the waste gate rod trying to remove it from the flapper. I would immediately pull the car out of his workshop and send it to a I dependent "tuner" so he can't cover up anything that he "may" of wrecked. Other side of the story is that it could have had a damaged rod when it went into his shop and the bloke is innocent.

How much play is in the shaft bearing. A journal bearing turbo will feel like it has allot. A ball bearing turbo will have a very small amount.

Is still a ball bearing turbo?

The way I see it is, the two car shells are exactly the same. So it'll fit with some tinkering. P.s spend the money on a tune and you'll never look back .

They'll fit. What diameter?

Bit blurry in the pic. But from what I can sorta make out it looks like a 100cell cat. A better pic if the inside would be better. I would think it will do 300kw fine.

If your tuning the car then I would change it to a k&n. And they flow sh*t loads more... At a cost of course(hence the oil)

What was the module worth FGCOOL?

Haha. As ratter said to many possibilitys lol. I reckon she woulda ran lean just a tad with those baby squirts still feeding the extra air charge. Lol If your keen you could pull spark plugs 3&4 and see what colour they are. Off white is lean and chunky black is rich. Did it throw any codes?

Every car with forced induction has the ability to over boost. But assuming everything in your engine bay is working as it should then no, it will not over boost due to a intake muffler and blow off valve delete. Any change to the cat convertor will surely see your car going into limp mode due to over boosting. What does "dose" stand for?

Change head lights mate and I can't see it being a problem. Everything else is the same I think. A lowered XR6 looks mint with the standard bumpers IMO....

Buy a boost gauge. Over boosting is too much turbo outlet pressure into the intake manifold. This is controlled via the waste gate Which is controlled by the computer, which is controlled via 0-5v signal coming from the map sensor which is connected to the intake manifold. So unless you have played with the waste gate pressure hose under the turbo then I would assume you have normal boost levels after your throttle body. Your intercooler piping will be receiving higher pressure then designed for when you here the flutter sound and it is common for the hot air out of the turbo to blow through your hot side piping.

Cool. PM me if you want me to check the codes. Otherwise monster torque is very flexible and also give you a read and erase. I will create a fault on my falcon to be sure the Xcal reads abs codes.

Ye there is mate. I have a code reader but anything cheap will only pick up certain codes and not really trans faults and brake codes. My Xcal 3 seems to pick up everything I have had so far. There worth 700new. 200 second hand but will need unlocking if you choose to tune your car which is worth about 300-400 ( I think) I can't see slotted rotors making much difference to the dirt stuck to the abs sensors. The front left sensor is what I have changed out before. What state you in? I may be able to help you out with a code read. Unfortunately I don't sell sex toys. But Ralphy likes turtles :/

Just apparently. If you ring XFT WA he'll tell you a but as he has installed allot of them. Less lag is a big one apparently

Sounds common. I would try clean all the steel filings off the abs sensors for a start. I dare say the clicking sound is your abs module releasing brake oil pressure to the caliper on the same rotor that the u/s abs sensor is on. Or a relay switching due to a u/s sensor. I have never diagnosed this problem before but I would start with disconnecting one sensor and then driving and then braking until you do all four or the problem goes away. I would start with your left hand side of the car as that is the side that hits the dirt and any puddles on the road. If you have no luck mate let ya know and we'll try and come up with some more money savings ideas haha. Oh and the sensor is behind your brake discs and the pickups are on the back of the hubs, so get the wheels, calipers and discs off to give everything a clean with a wire brush.

Sounds like spark or timing bud. I would start with checking your timing as the problems started after your tuner played with springs. And he may have removed the timing chain in order to gain access to the springs.

^^^^^^^^ Scooter Hoons. What is this world coming too... :/

definitely don't mix any oil with metholated spirits. The alcohol will raise the flash point of the oil... Nek minute engine fire. How ever metho in the fuel tank is a good idea, I have been told it evaporates any water. I would not bother cleaning the sump mate. Oil is built to trap things like water and scum and therefore will end up in the oil drain tray when you drop the oil. We have built $500000 cat engines And I would be doing nothing more then cleaning the milky stuff off the rocker cover, top of the head and an 100km oil change after you finish the job.

Any external pump is noisy. I run a warlbro 450 in tank fuel pump and I cant here it at all. I'm also at 400rwkw.

With this guy.