AdamIan69

Lol, good ol VAS. Always been good for getting things in..... Aaaaahhhh never mind...

All original mate.

They should clean them with an ultra sonic cleaning bath for that price. But if you pull your spark plugs and they are all very similar colour then I would say to just reseal them. If you know some one with an RAC card then you can get 25% off parts at repco

Depends what kit you put in it, if you go a kit that is 400kw plus then I think some minor machining has to be done. However, if you the the manual and set your bearing preloads right then I think the autos are easy.

They could be made for lowered cars. It just means the rear end will sag another 10mm before being bottomed out. It will depend how you like the ride as well. If your rear passengers complain about it being hard then they'll have to walk. Is the car lowered?

Depending on price, just order the two in CV's and bang them of the half shaft. <br /><br />Does it do it in reverse? Or 1st gear compression breaking?

I would go tray off. But I know some shops do go the diff method. So just wing but mate, I would think you would need less tools to remove the tray. And at the same time you could spray the chassis black again. You could remove the driveshaft, trailing arms, pan hard rod and shocks then under the front leaf hanger to drop the diff away. But you would still need to drop the tank. Or use a jig saw and cut a hole in your tray, then use black sikaflex and threaded rivets from you local hardware to install sheet metal over the top of the hole nicely. Silly ford engineers could have designed it like that and made it look very nice. :/ if you do, do it this dodgy way, make sure the hole is round and not square to avoid any cracks.

Well done

Hahahaha. Ye loctite the turbine housing bolts lol.

Yes the seal change is relatively easy. And yes you gotta drop the oil. If you pm me your mobile number I will take a picture of the workshop guide. Have you checked the oil level?

Hahsha

Pull your starter motor out and check the drive gear. If you see evidence if coolant on it and inside your bell housing then yes it will most likely be the rear welsh plug. So yeh, box, torque converter and flex plate or box, clutch and flywheel depending in which way you swing.

1 kW = 1.341hp 100kw = 134.1hp Your xr6t had 259rwkw and I give about 90hp of loss through the auto drive line. That would approximately give you 326 engine kW.

Buy a bigger radiator and intercooler, ceramic coat and fibre glass wrap your exhaust and turbine housing, shroud your radiator to intercooler and intercooler to bumper, ceramic coat your intake manifold and cold side turbo piping that sits inside the engine bay, separate your auto trans oil and coolant, run less coolant and more water on track days, raise cooling system pressure to 18-20 psi and don't sit in other cars slip streams if /when possible as air is not as dense in the slip stream. You could try all of that and see we're it gets you? Ralph, coolant would be released at somewhere around 13-15psi. But once released the coolant won't travel to the windscreen under pressure. It will travel there because the coolant is carried there in the flow of air. I have also been told of a bloke that ran a raised rear bonnet and got oil on his windscreen when a rod escaped the block.

The way I see it Nelson if what you say was true, when you use the windscreen washers at 200kph the water would enter your engine bay and not hit the windscreen. Also if that were the case when my mates car blew the top radiator hose while at speed, the coolant would not have hit his windscreen via the gap at the rear of his bonnet and firewall. But I am no engineer.

You could try removing the rubbing seal under your bonnet on the windscreen side, then space the bonnet of the hinges 5mm or so. You could even cut a piece out of you spacers/washers so you would only have to slide the spacer in and out for track days. You would never have to remove bonnet hinge bolts for a spacer change again.

12mm studs... No drilling... Yep let the engine cool over night and replace one at a time. If you had to drain the coolant to prevent a leak while doing this then there is something wrong. I would do it. Ensure you measure your hole depth to ensure the studs are bottoming out in the block and not getting caught on an old bit of loctite. I would also use the recommended lube on the head studs when tighting the nut down. If the lube u use is too good you will risk breaking the studs due to being stretched. If the lube is poor then you risk not running an even clamping pressure across the head or not enough clamping pressure per stud.

Sorry "Sway bar bushes

Away bar bushes?

Depends on the diameter of the stud. I think it is with the 1/2 studs that needs the head holes to be drilled to 13mm. But don't quote my sizes.

Whoops my mistake. But genuine oil is always good. And redline us not that great. Penrith out performs the redline stuff.

Drop the oil and run genuine stuff. And check the redline oil container and see if it is ZF compatible as it needs to be. Ordinary auto trans oil does not do the trick. Do a search in driveline under ZF oil.

What oil did you use?

Oil levels?

Ye mate do a right up.