AdamIan69

Would use consider a stage two? The cutting part is quite easy, and won't affect and structural strength of the car.

Thanks to process west for the photos.

Custom dump pipe at least.

Sorry mate ignore that. Just engine earths. I must of wrote what I was thinking.

Ye I was talking about airflow.

Ye you'll have to run another two wires into the rear doors. Not too hard just run them through here

Good luck gege6. You could tap into your interior light. That is only thing that illuminates and is on a timer when you unlock the doors. If your running a g6e you can use the courtesy light on the inside of the door as your power supply.

I am gonna be running liquid gas. So a smaller fuel tank will work a treat. Try not to ask any questions just yet. I have had the idea for a while now, and I am now going into r&d. 9inch in my eyes is to big for what I need. The standard diffs are running 9sec 1/4s. So no need to bolt in extra weight, or an extra $3500 for a 9" diff and live housing. Once I get the conversion done ill do up a thread on it.

Ye mate, I'm aware. But I am looking at putting the complete live axle assembly in the sedan. I have costed it up (sorta) and there is next to no price difference in it for me.

I am chasing a complete ute diff (LSD) for my G6ET. Anyone know of any and wanna turn them into cash. Donations are also welcome

Normal, but catch can is good as the oil won't be burnt onto the back the of valves and valve stems.

Make sure your coils have a good earth. And make sure all earths straps are connected secularly and clean( including battery terminal).

It will make more sound, but the gutted piece will become very inefficient. You want all you pipes to be smooth, with no bumps. It is a pretty simple upgrade to replace it.

Joe still had em for under $1600.

^^^^ I Agree with this bloke. My wife drives my standard G6T to the shop and back with a baby in the car( So I assume she is driving responsibly, although she did get caught doing snakeys a while back...) and it gets 12.9-13.3l per hundred. Once on the free way it'll come back to 7.8-8.5litres on instant consumption.

Depending on how bad the leak. If it is bad, then you may loose a little throttle response when not on boost and between idle and 1700rpm. I would also think your tuner would hear any leaks as they listen to cars every day and there ears are fine tuned to any problem sounds. No need for a retune if it is a leak after the turbo(unless there is a hole in your dump pipe of course, then you may run a little rich when coming on boost once repaired). My 2 cents anyway.

That sucks bogan speed

If you can wait a week mate, I should be able to get you a flapper cheap and a waste gate as well if needed. I am hoping to do my flapper mod myself this week end if I am not working. And if I am I will post some pic on this site.

Cool. Keep the pics coming mate.

Thankyou. I was always under the impression turbo axles had more splines. 400kw it is.

The little plastic screws inside the wheel arch and on the grill are a pain. But put a sharp knife under the head as you undo each one and they'll normally come undone reasonably easy. From memory there is two bolts with 10mm heads in side the top front of each wheel arch. Then about 10 small bolts around the front bottom of the bumper. Then you have the grill which came off easily on mine. The fog light electrical plugs can be a pain to pull apart (push the clip down then force the plugs together then pull apart(putting Vaseline in the plug before re assembly helps stop the plug from seizing in future) and resist pulling on the wires as these plugs are about $15 each to replace). A light to firm pull on the top of the bumper inside of each wheel arch will unclip it.

And you will still have to remove plastic for the cooler pipes to pass through the original holes. Where abouts are you G6ET, you could borrow the die grinder I bought for the job. Im in baldivis

Oh righto.

Check inside the driver door bud.