AdamIan69

Centrifugal blown xr6 with a high stall against a std Fg f6. I would put money on the blown xr6. And very good observation sexual harassment, good to see you've read the owners manual.

I can't open it bud, I'll PM ya.

The turbo conversion is pretty common but it will cost you more in the long run. A motor may cost you 4k but then you got exhaust, map sensor, air box and tubing, gear box, intercooler and piping, plus tuning.

If you need help doing the service look over this site and you'll find all the info. I also have the BA workshop manual on CD. But it covers the ZF 6 speed auto. And allot of the sh*t is the same between BA and Fg. Except wiring diagrams,

A cracked head will leak when hot, but will sometimes not leak when cold.

I had 4.11:1 in my gt and it was awesome but fuel consumption on petrol was a killer.

I would say about the same time, although with the power your running you will have to pull the box in the future to tighten a loose flex plate, due to ford not loctiting it's mounting bolts. <br /><br />I recall a high stall will set you back about 1200-1500, and that is machining your old one. But call CMS or your local tuner for pricing.<br /><br />Do XR6's come with lsd's? If not then you will want a try trac in the future aswell. So you could end up doing both jobs.<br /><br />The high stall will also put more load on your driveshaft, where diff gears won't affect driveshaft load at WOT and anything under WOT there will be less driveshaft torsional stress. <br /><br />Depending on the size of your wallet, will depend on what gears you want, I would go the high stall to keep fuel consumption around normal. And 3.7:1 if your wallet is a little thicker, 3.9 if you like getting 400km per tank of fuel while cruising and like frying tyres almost instantly on take off

true tracs are good too.

true tracs are good too.

The standard driveshafts are stronger then the turbo driveshafts, diff gears will increase your fuel economy as the engine is reving higher all the time. A high stall will allow the engine to rev higher when the car first accelerates which will get you on boost faster.

Jack up the RHS of the car just enough to get your head under, and pull the filler plug out the RHS bottom rear of the box " with the engine idling in neutral" and put some more GW Syntrans in until it trickles out the side. Then lower the car while it is still idling and wait for the trickle of oil to almost stop. Jack the car back up, replace the plug and do it up "gently". Then turn the car off and lowering it to the ground. <br /><br />Do it on level ground ofcourse and you will need Allen keys about 10mm or 3/8 by memory and a oil syringe with a hose from repco. Also a container that will fit under the auto box with the car lowered to the ground.<br /> Do that before you worry yourself to much. There is plenty of time to worry later lol.

You checked the oil level lately?

100km service. Expect about $450 genuine ford ZF oil for the auto, $200 for synthetic engine oil and filter, and $150 for synthetic LS oil, $70 for brake fluid flush, $100 for coolant flush 70 for power steering. <br /><br />I have never had it done before but expect those prices IMO.

549.819 hp actually.

You can also buy the diff gears out of a manual Fg xr6 non turbo and put them in as they are a higher ratio them autos. Not sure the ratio though.

If it's an auto you could throw in a high stall. 2500 rpm or 3000rpm would be awesome. You will have to pull the box to put loctite on the flex plate bolts anyway.

Cheap ones do work for a few attempts though

I use snap on but wellar is the same but cheaper as it does not have a lifetime warranty. Snapon will set you back about $180 and wellar will be about $130. I have had many soldering iron and I would definitely go one of these two brands. As cheap ones spit 2-3 inch flames from the exhaust and catch on fire and the metal heating iron turns to sh****t.

Yes you could, but pointless if the car is running fine IMO. If you were going to do what you say I would go buy a 38mm or 40mm valve and do the whole job. It is piece if puss with the right tools. ie electric die grinder and carbide bur.

4th at 5300 rpm. Be careful she 's not being starved of fuel.

.7 to seems to be pretty common.

..... PING .....

Can I guess and say about 90km/hr?

Ye bud the 5th to 1st down change has happened to me before. But lucky enough I fluked it and got the clutch disengaged in time. 4th to 2nd through a corner is more fun huh<br />

Get her on blocks and get her box out...