hunty

Checking the cooling system. I had a bad experience with that . What we used to call "welsh plugs" in the side of the block decades ago, now called "freeze plugs".There is one in the rear of the head, a really difficult position where there is a minimum of room between the back of the head and the firewall. So it became a head off, get a professional engine reconditioner to check for head damage to replace the iceplug. The "the coolant is above normal operating level, going to "limp home mode" and home was just 600 mtrs. Possibly failed, because of a combination of factors. after my servicing dealer went bust it fell to my wifes suburban workshop to provide more "time elapsed" services than km based. And seeing this they might have thought they were being helpful by doing just minor services. Not checking the strength of the coolant. I had an event causing a brain injury so was away from it for months in its early days. that's my excuse for it. Its been 100% since repair. Just another reason to keep the coolant strength at full strength. its made worse by the location. not easily accessible as it was back in 250cid XB models. And I think all the smarts took a bit longer to realise the coolant was above normal operating range. there was absolutely no steam like would have been the case in the "side of the block"welsh plugs"

Air conditioning not achieving or maintaining correct temperature . My Mk1 has had the outside air temp sensor, in passenger side rearview mirror replaced twice. The explanation I received. Its only by knowing the outside temp that the temp inside is maintained by mixing the cold air from the compressor with believed exterior air temperature. Its not the "fully loaded" climate control optioned version. But still seems to rely on that sensor. Not a really expensive fix, I think today the sensor $26 on Ebay, and if you're good friends with an auto electrician, who knows. it a really quick fix once you have the part. initially it seems like the system is out of refrigerant.

So I was going to ask if you got from a third party supplier or ford."Ford Parts guy" answers that I guess. Some dealers are saying 'no stock' at the moment. So maybe it is an Air to fluid cooler I need at the moment. (its preventative , not disaster (yet).

Some progress on this ticking/ rattleing sound. my solution may be unique as I mentioed the head reconditioning which took place June 2021. 1500 km ago. I took it out this morning, and the rattle/ticking was there, just like an empty coke can in the drivers door drink holder .Once home & after a couple of hours cooling, a "much better hearing" son came around. he listened and identified almost immediately to the touch; the head / engine lifting metal oval hook on the back right side of the engine(from the drivers perspective) was tapping away, and could be silenced by pushing against it with a long screwdriver or bare hand. So Puffwagon, your suggestion on torqueing up the exhaust manifold fasteners was very close to the money. As for the hook that's rattleing, the bolts at each end are covered by turbo heat shield. its not possible to tell if one end is completely unfastened. At it's worst state it would be easy to push a credit card between the hook and engine. the car will be back at my mechanics early am Monday.Thanks for the advice.

I've just started having this issue, I'll call it a rattle. Worst when no pressure on accelerator and in drive with a/c on, maybe 650 rpm idle. As I put it in park (very slight increase in RPM)the noise decreases. decreases again when the a/c turned off. At any engine RPM above 750 rpm right up to 3000 it is normal. I've done the long screwdriver to ear trick, but nothing stands out, In general it sounds louder on the Exhaust / turbo area. The head was off and completely reconditioned after an "ice plug" at the rear let go and spewed coolant out 6 months ago. most of the serpentine belt stuff, tensioner etc was examined and as needed replaced back then. Its 13 years old. 134,000km. And its had the Alternator replaced since the head repair But still on all the original exhaust (I'm suspicious of that). Weirdly, after I take a few things into the house, and come back, start it to move further into the garage - (2 minutes). Start, put in Drive, let it idle forward a meter, silent, no out of place sounds whatsoever. Apart from the above it is making good power, and the Turbo boost is onstream as needed or provoked. just the problem you don't want to demonstrate to a mechanic because sometimes its silent, sometimes not. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AAykKf8VDKQngnZcA

Just replaced the 5 year old original battery in my fgXR6T. I was having a/c problems and was told by a dealer that the old battery was the probable cause. After a new battery installed, a/c is working great, but now the reversing sensors are not. while the dash display comes up as expected(image of car etc), no warnings are ever displayed. All other electronics/ electrical's seem perfect, just this reversing sensor problem. Any suggestions appreciated.

My 2009 Auto 6spd FG XR6T has 40,000km. Around town I have to be lead footed to get above 13's. On the highway it's fantastic, one recent 1400km return trip Brisbane - Tamworth and back in a day resulted in 8.9 (with ac on the whole way) Other trips down the less hilly Pacific Highway it has got down to 8.1.These trips all with the cruise control set +- 10% of the speed limit. On the highway I like to use the rolling accelleration, Love and use the 80-120km overtaking accelleration. All on 95 octane fuel.