ColinT

I guessed you were thinking of resistor I've seen on ebay. If you car does suffer from earth problems then it would possibly cure that. But to say; # Improve throttle response # Smoother low & mid range torque # Better combustion efficiency I could believe; # Easier engine starts # Brighter head lamp # Reduce electronic noise All it appears to do is to join areas within the engine bay back to a common point to share the earth. It actually looks as if it may fit on a battery terminal. I think anyone with a few lengths of ordinary wire could come up with a similar product, if there was a need. As for "The Evo 9 has it as a $800 option" then more fool anyone to pay this on a car that must be built with a poor earth structure in the first place.

Easy $2000 damage, you can see damage in the photo. My daughters Barina hatch, hit from behind by a XE falcon ute. The Barina had a cut in the plastic bumber and a scratch next to the number plate. The rear hatch operated perfectly. As it wasn't her fault then get it fixed. This amounted to $1130. It's embarassing when the AAMI assessor asks for me to point out the damage.

Are your thoughts the same on this product? # Improve throttle response # Easier engine starts # Smoother low & mid range torque # Brighter head lamp # Reduce electronic noise # Better combustion efficiency http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Performance-Gro...1QQcmdZViewItem

My april 05 build, Pentium 3.4 LGA775, 1GB ram, 6600GT video with heat sink only. twin pioneer 109 burners. that's the orignal specs, installed a 2nd exhaust fan due to the video running hot, duel exhausts. Because the heat sink on the fan let all the heat rise to the CPU area. Had to take it back to the dealer 3 times to get the same fault fixed, sounds like a ford dealer. On the 3rd try they found a faulty ingnition wire from the HD to the MB. Running well since. The engine cooling system became noisy, a constant background humm. Installed a Scythe Samuria Z cooler on the engine. This has the main cooler and an intercooler at the top. I haven't tested it under load yet, but it is quiet.

You didn't run over anything. Print this thread out, and show em everyones pics if need be. I have been collecting photo's of others with evactly the same fault. This is just in case I have trouble with the tyres and the Ford dealer. Its definetly not an isolated problem. Tell them you found that you should check the tyres from a Ford forum. It definetly had the dealer curious when I found the rust in the boot. Where did you hear about the rust to go looking?? So the tyres fall into exactly the same catagory.

Tried to open the file after download but recieved CRC error in the zip and the pdf was faulty.

I should have mentioned always change the oil filter, but I guess that's common sense. Other good links on this forum. Do a search on synthetic in this forum, plenty of results. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...84&hl=synthetic

I also waited for the peace of mind service at 3000km for the first change. Good to hear that you are not thrashing as some do from day one. The other suggestion which I think is quite valid is not to change over to a full synthetic until the 15,000 service. If you want to go full synthetic. There is nothing wrong with magnatec that Ford use (different trade name) but the changes should be done every 7,500km. Every garage and dealer mechanic have spoken told me this. The same mechanics also suggested if I went to synthetic them still change every 7,500km. At the price of synthetic I stuck with Magnatec changes every 7,500km.

The Mrs. doesn't have a clue. As for as she knows, the car just got a tune up...... Isn't amazing that the women don't notice anything that gets changed on a car. When I put the full PBR kit on she never noticed that anything had changed, and she is harder on brakes than me. In the new year when I get my "Tune Up" I guess she won't know the difference then either. Anyway great to see your happy with the edit Yoda.

Did exactly the same thing when it was 5 days new. But I must admit the Murcury Silver is nearly the same colour as the material the front skirt is made from. So I haven't bothered with a repaint. It was a serious thought at the time it happened. Never had a scrape since then.

Thinking back to the buying a XR6T from Telstra thread. I think after reading this thread the Telstra XR6T would be the better choice. I find it hard to believe that the members of the Police force would do such a thing. They must have been in a pursuit. Its just too bad they weren't up against a real XR6T like exists on this forum.

I have been told that they paint a rust converter over all the affected areas. This is also suppose to penetrate the joint. Then a spray paint over that. Picked up the car today from the dealer. Boot area on both sides look as if it has been sprayed. I hope it was treated first. The spray job is great can't tell there was any rust and looks like new. I hope it isn't just a cover up job to get out of warranty.

Here goes the Vaporate thread. As you may have read I haven't seen any improvement in fuel economy since Vaporate was fitted. The manufacturers were quite surprised that NO savings were made. They stood 100% behind their product in offering a full refund. What they did ask was for me to have a full exhaust gas analysis using scan tool, just to check the vehicle compter and O2 sensor were working correctly. This was organised for next week at their expence. About 10 days ago when I selected "D" the engine went into a rough idle so I turned it off. Started ok and ran ok. Yesterday slowed at traffic lights and it nearly stalled. Last night selected "R" started backing out the driveway then a sudden surge of power and had to brake. Selected "N" wouldn't idle, switched off, restarted and ran ok. Today I took the car to the dealer to get the boot rust repaired, and told him what had happened. They checked the error codes which told them it was a faulty throttle position sender. This has been replaced, and dealer said thie would cause poor fuel economy. The current tank is the worse I have had in 18 months. I contacted Vaporate who said that this fault would stop the computer from operating correctly. I then offered to cancel the scan tool and test a couple more tank fulls over the Christmas period then get back to them. So that's where it all sits now. They still firmly believe in thier product and I am willing to give then the benifit of the doubt by trying a couple more tanks over Christmas.

I hope I don't offend any members by posting my thoughts on this vehicle. Spotted this XR6T in a local yard. Looked great from a distance so I took the camera with me. I lost interest when I had a good look. To each his own, but seamed too much to me. I am the owner of a Murcury Silver XR6T. By the way they had $27,000 on it and 90,000klms. Exterior FPV badged stripes to catch your eye. The brake calipers and dust shields painted red. Light silver infill sprays front and rear. The 6 painted orange to match the stripes. Extra badges SVO and Ford front side and rear. XR in orange on the headlights. Front fake bonnet scoop. Orange pin stripes on bonnet. Interior Signed dash. Red foot pedals. Red light switch surounds. Red steering wheel. Red centre console with SVO badge. Red instrument cluster surround. Red dash trim. Red rear speaker covers, forgot the sub. Red Ford Performance Racing decals. Under bonnet Signed rocker cover Tickford badged air snorkle. Red fuse box cover.

Every EDIT is VIN locked to the vehicle when the factory tune is downloaded, ie when you first go to use EDIT. For an EDIT box to be reflashed it has to have seen the factory tune as having been reloaded back to the original vehicle. If it doesn't then CAPA cannot reflash the box. So you can't leave an EDIT map on the car then sell the box.

Want a laugh. Guy at work had to do some work under his Ford. Showed the 10yo son how the hydraulic jack works. Raised the vehicle and slid under. Took a car stand with him for safety. Positioned the car stand where he was working. Son lowers jack with him under the car. Car stand slips but stops when it hits the sump. Big dent in the sump. Climbs out from under the car. Starts the engine, clunking sound heard. Tows the car to a local garage. Not wanting to remve the engine to replace the sump. Mechanic drills holes in the sump and pulls the dent out. Bogs up the holes and sprays the sump. Good as new?????????

I have a Question. What are the 2 items here you listed? Engine flush 13.10 fuel system cleaner 13.10 These are not in the normal service shedule. So they charged you whatever they wanted to labour wise for these items.

Nice to see you itemised the account. I do this every service. I also suspect some of the members on this forum don't get the inlet and exhaust manifolds tightened as they should. No fault of the member the dealer just doesn't do it, so people get a cheap service. You are correct in the exact hour rate. They can only charge the Ford allotted time for each job. My Labour total $159.60 and that included 18 min to replace wiper blades. That equates to $70 per hour. From the manual Service A = 48 min, tyre rotation 18 min, turbo inlet/ex 54 min that's 2 hrs. I think you should phone them and make them tell you the houly rate you were charged. I don't think any dealer that charges $120 per hr plus GST. Have a look towards the end of this thread, 3 messages up. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...=0entry317920

I was surprised to read in another forum that, if you do the swap with the battery and do the intercooler mod you remove 3 metres of plumbing. Too bad Ford havn't caught on to this. I guess their too lazy to change the production line. After all the XR6T and the Typhoon are special vehicles, so why don't Ford make make a few small changes. Especially for the Typhoon being a FPV model.

If you turned them off during sunny days you wouldn't have that problem! Sorry to hijack the thread a bit. But I agree with Falchoon completly. But worse than those people with the front fogs on all the time, are the idiots that are too ignorant to know that the rears also come on at the same time in certain european cars, BMW etc. It isn't illegal to have the fronts on but it is illegal to have rears on (Vic).

An extract from an article I found It frequently crops up in web discussion groups: why can’t Peltier coolers be used to build an intercooler? It seems reasonable enough: Peltier coolers are designed to work off car-type voltages, in recent times their prices have been dropping fast, and they do what you want an intercooler to do – remove heat. (See the breakout for more on these fascinating devices.) But the short answer regarding Peltier intercoolers is that with the current level of Peltier technology, it’s not going to happen. A powerful Peltier device like this one is rated at 80 watts of electrical power. Wile the relationship between thermal heat movement and electrical input power is not 1:1, the power rating of a turbo car intercooler (eg the B4 Subaru at 13.4 kilowatts) is so much higher that you’d need something like 15 Peltiers to do the same job – and that’s ignoring the very real problems of the actual heat exchange process and the power consumption from the battery. It’s certainly possible that one day intercooling will head in this direction, but so far it’s not been viable.

I have been told that they paint a rust converter over all the affected areas. This is also suppose to penetrate the joint. Then a spray paint over that.

As you can see it's just starting, so thank to the forum.

With all my services I leave either a mark or take note of tyres before it goes in. Such as taking note of where the valves line up with the words on the tyres. A spot or 2 of marker pen on exhaust manifold heat shields. So far all items I have marked and checked have been serviced. It's still a shame that we can't trust the service departments. As for the tyre rotation I tell the dealer to do it. Why wait until it's noticable, otherwise it's going to be another 15,000ks before it gets looked at.

Read your post a while ago but didn't look at that time. So guess what? Just looked and the exact same place has a circle of rust and the seams have lines of rust. All this is very light at present. Mine is a 2004, 30,000klm and just under 18 months old, mainly garaged. When I showed the dealer of course very surprised, and I was asked how long was I planning on keeping the car? That gives them and idea of whay sort of fix they have to do, I guess. Then they took some photos. Then around to the paint shop for an inspection and quote to be sent to Ford. Again thaks to this forum it was found early. Even the dealer asked where did I find out about where to look.