ColinT

Installed this type of reverse parking sensor today. Purchased from ebay for $30. Apart from the price it goes behind the plastic of the bumper and there are no sign of it being fitted. Two good selling points. Pictures show; Location of the inside unit. I decided to put this in the same place the Ford unit. It does come with a led display so it can be mounted on the parcel shalf or they suggest on the roof near the window. I decided I only wanted the beeps so I mounted it out of sight. Location of where I placed the black box that operates the system. Connected into the reversing light in that corner for power. The magnitic detection tube mounted inside the bumper. I think I could have mounted it a bit higher in the bumper. Had to drill a small hole into the boot to pass the wire through. The system works well as and there is a sensitivity adjustment if required. The detector is sensitive enough to pick up changes in the road surface when reversing. that's sometimes annoying. That also why I think I could have mounted it a little higher. I have tested it using a mates car and the rubbish bin. Going only on the beeps I parked 15cm from both safely. Just went looking on ebay can't find a link at present. The guy only selld one at a time.

Removed the rear bumber to fit the reverser parking sensor kit I bought from ebay ($30). This is the kist where the detector sticks behind the plastic of the bumber. NO holes to drill. Will post some pics later. TO my horror I found more rust along the bumper channel. Every dip along the top edge and at the ends of the channel und underneath. Its an area you can't see unless the bumper is off. Contacted the local dealer (1klm away) and suggested they come take some pics to send away with the claim for repair. The dealer was happy for me to take the pics for him. So I took the pics and re assembled the bumper. The pics will go to the dealer on Thurdays when I'm off.

Here's one I hadn't seen before. I know it's similar to the SS intakes but also a lot cheaper. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Ford-BA-BF-XR6-Cold...1QQcmdZViewItem

After reading a few posts I thought I would do my own oil change between the dealer service intervals at 15,000 klms. Bought a gunuine Ford oil filter and 2x5lt containers of Castrol Magnatec. When I drained the oil I was realy shocked that it was so black after just 7500 klms in service. I would encourage all owners to change the oil at least every 7500klms after what I have seen.

The 91 was suppost to be gone 5 years ago. The government was so slow as usual in acting. They prob use the 95 in yours because they know the recommended fuel is 95 or higher. I am about to fill with Shells new 95 economy fuel today, only comes in 92 and 95RON. I keep accurate records of klm's travelled and economy, so I can put the claims to the test. I've read their press realease for the new fuel. What a pathetic statement. The car tested gained 55% improvement over the manufactures measured fuel usage. Of couse it would. THe manufactures was done in accordance with the Australian standard. The shell test (using the shell guidelines) which I can't find a copy of achieved a better result. I'm not going to drive around with the A/C off and take it out of gear to roll down hills. that's the sort of thing they might do to prove a point. I guess by now you might think I'm cynical about the press release, but they should make public their guide lines for saving fuel at the same time.

Just purchased a reverse sensor kit from ebay. Not a camera kit. Recommended to me from another forum member. Instead of the ugly detectors in the bumper it has a detection strip that attaches behind the plastic of the bumper. Only $36 for the kit and simple to install. Will take a few pics as I go and let the forum know how well it works.

Just had the pipe in your second photo replaced. Intercooler to crossover pipe. Removed the ugly sticker, on it is part number BA26K863A

WELL, I've read about it happening on this forum and it had happended to me. As I mentioned above the car was driving different. Gave it a full clean today and under the bonnet. Just about the wash over the engine cover and there it was the turbo hose was blown off the crossover. So no wonder it seemed different. Went to the dealer and they are ordering a new pipe and clamp. The pipe was split at the crossover end. The old clamp and pipe are on there now so I'll take it a bit easier until Friday when the new parts are in.

Your right the PBR's are bloody fantastic. Your right also I should have thought to use performance mode to do the overtake up the hill. I have used it in the past and it is a much more controlled accelleration.

My car ECU has changed the way it drives during the weekend. We went for a weekend away to Marrysville up in the mountains out from Melbourne. The road on the way has got some decent climbs and for klm's its just upwards. Where I live is pretty flat everywhere. At one point a Audi (2.3lt) was down to 60klm in front of me , next break I past him up a straight hill for about 500m. I noticed the car held 2500rpm as I passed and this was enough to get past, it didn't want to kick back like it had previously. Again later around the hills it didn't kick back as ofter as before. When arriving back into Melbourne I had to do the usual cross 5 lanes to get to the one I wanted. Put the pedal down again it didn't want to change back, pushed further and away it went I feel perhaps a bit too severe. After the initial surge I hear the wife go LOOKOUT, and up ahead everthing was stopped. I pushed the brakes ad I must admit this is the first time I used the PBR's in anger and it stopped fantastically. I have never had such a great set of breaks, good control all the way to stopped. Up the road a bit there were 2 cars stopped in the middle lane (of 5) the drivers standing between the 2 cars exchanging names. Bloody idiots, if someone had hit the rear car they would have been crushed. SO now I guess I'm waiting for the ECU to return to my norml driving habits, and not the up hill change.

Dug up an old thread I know. Well my test of Vaporate is over. I found that it did provide some improvements but NO where near the claims of 10-20%. I saved around 0.5lts per 100klms. So I sent Vaporate the facts in preperation of a full as promised refund. Now this is where it gets interesting. The details were sent 2 weeks ago. My supplier/fitter talked to them 2 weeks ago. Today all phone numbers are dead and they can't be contacted. So I have no idea what is going on now. The good thing is that it doesn't affect the running of the car so it can stay if it has to. I did notice that with vaporate preferably using std unleaded I'm sure there were times I heard the engine pining under load. Anyway Ive gone back to premium now and no pinging.

I was shocked looking at Carsales.com last night to find that there are XR Turbo's the same as mine second hand starting at $25,000. An example is below. SO much for getting a decent resale value. From Carsales.com 2004 Ford Falcon XR6 Turbo BA Mk II Acid Rush 4dr Sedan Semi-Automatic 6cyl 4.0L; 46,000kms $24,999

Sorry to dampen the enthusiasm but the soon to be released Mazda 3 MPS leaves the XR5 for turbo power. XR5 166kw from 2.5 lts, MPS 184kw from 2.3lts.

A couple of times I was lucky to get names and contact details of witnessess. Proved to be valuable when disputed, I had written statements. Another time hit up the rear by the car behind who was hit up the rear pushed into me. We did the right things exchanged names etc, and no one was injured. The next day I was told to report to the Police station to make a statement. First question was, why did you leave the scene of the accident before the Police arrived? Two weeks later I was in Court, innocent.

Working 12hrs per day everyday. First day off will be Tuesday.

I found this out about the Ford fix a while ago and posted the details. Yes they machine the pads and change to a different compound for the pads. But this is suppost to stop the shudder reappearing.

Just had the TPS replaced for the second time since Christmas. Dealer said we don't get many of these go faulty. Yours in Very, Very, rare that a second one faults. This time they snapped the bolts in the throttle body that hold it on. I had to be driven home then picked up to collect the car after the fix. Anyone else had this fault. I can't wait until I'm out of warranty and have to pay for to have this fixewd each time.

Well I guess the round holes on the grill match something, but not the model it was built for. Guess the couldn't copy the grille's we already have. Should have been standard throughout the range from Ford like everyother car on the market. It actually looks more restrictive than the aftermarket grille's. Given the reason Ford reduced the towing capacity of the XR Turbo due to flow through the IC then I guess they have found these grilles okay.

Don't like the suggestion of in the add that says; Just requires a tee piece and cut into the brake booster like. As we know this is not how it should be connected.

Realy its poor design by Ford. The VQ Statesman 1991, has adjustments where you could do the old fashioned test for: litres to empty, ave fuel consuption and klms to empty. If Expensive Daewoo got it right back then Ford have a long way to catchup.

Found this on the forum before How to change the battery in a BA with an alarm system. To disarm siren: Turn a valid key to the Ignition position for more than two seconds, then turn the key to the Off position. After one second and before three seconds disconnect the BEM fuse or the battery terminal. Hope this helps!!

damn good question! Also, why did this XR8 owner think such oil consumption was acceptable??? Surprised he didnt query it earlier... Prevoius car was probably an LS1. Geea. Your actually not far from being correct there. This mate didn't own a LS1 thought. His car is actually the only Ford V8 out of all the V8 cars the blokes I work with own. The others are Expensive Daewoo V8's and they seem to think that sort of oil consumption is to be expected.

A mate just had his XR8 corrected. Corrected? He wanted to know how much oil I go throught in my T between services. When I informed him I don't need to top up oil between services he was surprised. It appears at about every 5000k he is at the add mark on the dip stick, so he adds oil. I suggested that's he should be back to the dealer, (done 50,000klm 2 years old). When he told the dealer they said we will send someone out to your car to check. In his words " here comes this 17 yo apprentice, whats he gunna find". The apprentice pulls the dip stick out and says that's a 6 cylinder dip stick to start with. What have you done with your original, V8 has a twist near the end of the stick. It turns out Ford stuffed up and a batch of 6 cylinder dip sticks and tubes were installed in some V8's. They replaced the tube and dip stick for my mate. It apprears that the oil level was over filled and the crank was hitting the oil and splashing it up into the engine. He is now waiting to see if any damage has been caused by this. Any experts out there got any ideas as to whether damage may have happened let me know.

This months RACV mag has a write up on ethanol. Love the paragraph that says " we believe that there is no harmful effects to a vehicle that has been cirtified to run on ethanol fuels". So does this mean your vehicle has to be cirtified to be safe??

Sorry for digging up an old thread but I found this interesting info on the Mazda site regarding ethanol. What can happen when Ethanol is used in non-suitable vehicles There is an increased possibility for the metal fuel tanks and lines to corrode or rust. There is an increased possibility for plastic fuel tanks to swell and break down. There is a possibility for plastic and rubber fuel lines to deteriorate. There is a possibility for fuel injector o-rings to break down. Carburettor floats and seals are susceptible to deterioration. Certain engine components may not be compatible. Engine management mapping parameters may not be entirely compatible with E10, thereby creating idle and driveability concerns, starting concerns and hot weather performance issues. Points to note Ethanol is an oxygenated fuel. E10 (which is oxygenated gasoline) may reduce fuel economy by an average of 2 - 3% because oxygenates contain less energy than non-oxygenated petrol. As such, there may be fewer kilometres per tank of fuel when using E10. Ethanol has a high affinity for water. Therefore, ingress of water could result in ethanol blends of petrol to break down into separate water/ethanol and petrol layers. This could create driveability concerns as there is the possibility of water/ethanol slugs reaching the engine. In some older vehicles, deposits in fuel systems can be loosened by E10 which may cause fuel filters to become blocked. Coarse ethanol, which is of poor quality (like ordinary fuels of poor quality), may cause poor idle, drivability concerns and starting issues, even if the vehicle is suitable to operate on E10.