ColinT

Just measured the tread depth on my original SP3000A. 27,000 klms on the clock and approx 5mm depth remains on all tyres.

Sorry guy's for the delay in getting back to you. I wanted to run the tank down to the fuel light before the refill. Generally around town and driving to work (open road 34k round trip) I get between 11.8-12.8 lt/100. This is accurate as I keep records being a lease vehicle. The first tank fill was yesterday and 57 lts for 493 klms, this equates to 11.56lt/100. So no great saving to be seen. Also Vaporate said I would see better economy if I was to use std ULP due to its density being higher instead of Optimax that I have always used. Maybe after a few more tanks I might try that. Had a trip to Melbourne and back yeasterday but haven't filled up yet. For the first time ever the dash readout showed 9.6lt/100 when I arrived in Melb. Usually at best indicated 10.2. So here's hoping. Colin

I'm from Victoria and all the mates from work with XRs are getting high 50,000 out of the original set of tyres. Currently the dealer has a XR6 in the yard with 58,000klm and the tyres are still roadworthy.

Wow, only 30,000klm. I'm just on 27,000 and still have 60% left. As mentioned in the forum there are plenty of threads on tyres, have you searched. I had Michelin on the wifes Mazda then put the so called fuel efficiant silica Hankooks on and now use 0.5 lt/100klm more. So I don't believe the advertising.

I'm interested in what type of Armourall you use, the only one I have makes everthing real shiny. Not the look I want on the dash. I do however use it on the kick plates and sides of the foot wells. Regards Colin

Glad to see you bought the 4000 Club Spec rotors. I fully agree with a previous comment from DaKing not wanting to want to be mucked around by the Ford fix. The Ford fix is just to get you out of the warranty period. As suggested before you could look at the PBR site for the install info for the Performance Kit, I'm sure the rears should just tap off.

The running in of my PBR Performance Kit said to do 3 to 12 60klm to 5 klm brakes and allow atleast 200 meters between for cooling. Hope the DBA's work for you.

I hope you were honest when you traded it in and told the dealer what a lemon it was. I guess we can wait for a new member to the forum to start complaining. Nice looking new car, but then again don't remember seeing any ugly BMW's. The video clip is fantastic.

http://www.indcor.com.au/aboutheth.htm http://www.deh.gov.au/atmosphere/fuelquali...t/chapter4.html http://www.deh.gov.au/atmosphere/fuelquali...anol/index.html http://www.caltex.com.au/about_news_detail.asp?id=309 http://www.aip.com.au/industry/fact_alt_fuels.htm

I have also researched this topic recently. It doesn't damage the car if you are using it regularly. Ethanol is about 105RON and they have to add corrosion inhibitors to the mix to prevent it damaging your fuel system. By adding these inhibitors is how we get down to 98RON. There was mention that you shouldn't let a tank of ethanol sit for long periods because it could seperate back to the nasty ingrediants. There is a claim that it will give better economy and it is better for the enviroment. Vehicle emmissions on ethanol are less than for conventional petrols. BUT IT IS WORSE FOR THE ENVIROMENT, THIS IS A KNOWN FACT. The cost of power and machinery to make ethanol is more than the savings enviromentally. This means that there are more emmissions from the electricity production and fuel used to harvest and convert the sugar cane than the reduction of the emmission from the vehicle. This is why you don't hear John Howard pushing the fuel as an enviromental alternative, because it isn't.

My biggest fill has been 50klm after the fuel light came on and even then only 58 lts. I know they advise not to run the tank too empty incase of picking up sediment into the system that would clog the fuel filter.

I have also been looking into types of oil to use. So far I have only had the 15,000k dealer service, and as we know they use Magnatec 10W-40. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multiplepro...ntentId=6008545 I phoned Castrol and discussed the oil options with them. I was looking for a synthetic that I could let go for 15,000k service intervals. The end result was a recommendation to use Castrol R 0W-40 and change oil and filter every 6 months or 7,500klms. Of course they were only talking about their products, and I asked about the 10W-60 and they advised it was too thick for our type of engine. There are plenty of good synthetic oils available. Mobil 1 for example 5W-50 this gets used by plenty of people but it is the dearest.

PBR don't make a Performance kit for just the fronts. Changing the fronts only would be OK as the PBR rears are exactly the same diameter and thickness as the originals. The only diff with the PBR rears is that they are slotted. Changed my avatar today to my PBR's.

I have never heard of the edit standard tunes causing damage. I looked at all these options when I decided to persue edit. But it was pretty clear that the only way to achieve the full potental was a custom tune. If your going to spend $995 then allow the extra $500 for the tune, I have.

If it's still during the warranty period then it is a warranty job. Fords idea is to keep machining the rotors to fix the shudder until the car is out of the warranty period. After the 2nd machining they then conceed to replacing the rotors. There is a good thread in this section on other ideas for the front brake replacement. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=20489

I was thinking to put the 4504's on and I have heard good things about the green pads also. I'm new to the idea of braided lines but they are better. The 4504 were $155 each, so plus pads and lines should come under $800.

There is a warning to wait atleast 1 minute after disconnecting the battery before disconnecting the supplimentary restraint connector. I guess this is the seatbelt pre tensioner. Or it could cause premature deployment and cause personal injury. Someone else might know more about this I'm only going on what I have read.

NO, all Ford would do because it is a 2004 build was to machine the discs and leave the old pads. I discussed this with their customer relations person. I thought it was always advisable to replace pads if you have a machining done, but not in Fords view. I was hoping if I put the pressure on Ford with enough complaints they might have come to the idea of the installation of the kit, but no such luck. They would only do their fix even though the dealer tried to get more. Ford would only pay the machining. I had the PBR's installed by the local garage. So that's actually the end of going to a Ford dealer for any further servicing. Colin

Thanks Falchoon, I'll remember next time. I wasn't aware you had to log into the Nizpro site from a posted link. It does make it easier for all to read if the text can be posted.

Just picked up the car with the new PBR's installed. The garage said they had bedded the pads in. So I though go through the bedding in process again, and I'm sure they were getting better evertime I pushed the pedal. I was wondering about the Ford dust shields that hide the callipers, if they went back on. The garage said they couldn't be fitted with this system. So not only have a got a better brake system but all 4 wheels look great to. Cost all up, $1880 for the PBR Kit and $200 for fitting. So I hope this will add something to the value of the car when I trade it in a few years. Colin

Agree with Tom 100%. Have just gone through this exact scenario and the PBR's are getting fitted at this moment. Have a look at the thread on brake shudder at the top of the mods page. I was warned to stay avay from the drilled rotors due to cracking. These rotors are good for avearage use but not for heavy duty braking. I know race brakes are drilled but they are also made totally differently. I was about to put DBA 504S on the car but I also read of people who after 10,000 klms had the shudder return. If you go for the 504 consider the 4504 which are heat treated, cost about $40 more. I was advised to use Bendix GCT pads as these had been found the best for Fords poor brake design. Regards

Go with the edit I am about to. But don't waste you money on a CAI if you are keeping the rest standart at this stage. Have a look at these threads from an expert. http://forums.nizpro.com.au/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=645 http://forums.nizpro.com.au/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=612

The standard intercooler has a 25mm air gap between the cross member and the surface. This cooler looks very close. Does this mean the cooler has no, or very little air space where the cross member is located?

I have read a couple of threads where the drive by wire accelerator failed, do you think it could be this?

Does this mean the cooler has no, or very little air space where the cross member is located?