aiboart

Turbulent flow is the objective for IC's and similar systems in order to faclilitate mixing and promote heat transfer throughout the mass of material. Pure laminar flow, even if it were possible, would see the boundary layer flows transfer heat - and that is about it.

1- Coils. 2- MAP sensor

No. Sticking with the Ford genuine (PBR) pads for the BA Premium Brakes. Those pads combined with DBA-5000's and PBR braided lines provide low braking effort, zero system latency, perfect control linearity and sustained high Fc even under very severe heat loads. I did try Ferodo DS-2000's, once. After a couple of thousand km I removed the pads from the car and went back to the Ford (PBR) pads.

Modulating something is fine provided that you have the skill and attention to deal with the situation. On a more fundamental level, where two systems interact (say car and driver) and the control system response is slower than the action of the slave system, the potential exists to create a negative feedback loop; the control system first overshoots and then it overcompensates...then it overshoots....

Cost, complexity, weight. For most road applications, front mounted air-air is more than sufficient. With water-air you need two heat exchangers (rather than one) fluid and a fluid drive. As for response... modern hi-end/hi-po road cars now feature software filters to dampen throttle response. Running shock torque loads into the contact patches, especially before weight transfer has occured, is bad for grip and chassis stability, which is fine if you are inducing instability in order to generate agility, but, not so fine if you are tooling around on the road. Turbo threshold and lag (what lag there is left these days) can be your friend in road situations where grip is marginal, such as on wet roads.

There needs to be a new club religion. "BEST TUNER IN THE WORLD but my car stalls all the time" But I still have faith in him... And give him money.

Depends. Had it once on two piece discs. After much running around trying to get a solution, a simple brisk drive and long cool down resolved the issue.

Factoring the cost of time and labor and the age of the components involved (and hence the expected service life) you may as well replace the coils and plugs in one hit and get those variables out of the way. If it works great. If not you have fresh coils and plugs for the next 5+ years. The genuine Ford coils and plugs are not that expensive these days.

Premium Brakes - full size spare was mandatory with Premium Brakes Premium Sound (color screen, sub woofer on rear shelf, big amp under drivers seat, A-pillar tweeters, 6-stacker CD player, etc.) Sunroof Reversing sensors Tow Bar Aux pre-amp (play music through Aux input, turn off ignition - if the volume collapses, you have the pre-amp) Aux cable Bluetooth Module (arrived with BF but fits BA also - a single button with a phone graphic in the middle of the console ) Premium Paint (anything other than flat white or red IIRC) Leather and 'leather' seats and door cards Front airbags (check for front seat airbag tags in the seat back seams nearest the door) Electric pedals, yes really (pedals go up and down - the control switch if present is near the ignition switch - drives Merc drivers mad) 18" alloy wheels with 245/40 series tyres - standard was 17" wheels with 235/45 series tyres Automatic Climate control - eschews the two dial HVAC controls for a button array Sports steering wheel (the fat one) Sports auto shifter (it's either grey or its brightly coloured to match the coloured XR interiors) Automatic gearbox Headlight Covers Foglight Covers Bonnet protector Rear window shade (external) Side windshield (skinny version / fat version) Internal rear window shades (twist to fold and store in front seat pocket) Rubber Boot mat/tub - heavy duty with lip Boot loading protection flap Boot storage net Carpet Mats ('Ford' / colour coded 'XR' / FPV chrome buttons) CD storage case (fits into the slot next to the tissue box slot) Phone 'presenter' (a hinged lever that lives inside the centre console - in the days of car kits the phone interface would be bolted to this) Storage pack for back seats (two versions, one for kids, one for adults) Peltier cooler for back seat - AC power pack for Peltier Cooler Mud Flaps Roof racks and fittings Smokers pack ... there are probably more

Just cool.

The powertrain computer looks at a whole host of factors including: intake air temperature, coolant temperature, engine oil temperature and transmission fluid temperature in order to decide whether or not to wind back power by pulling out boost or advance or both. It follows then that the cooler you can keep the beastie and the critical parts and fluids thereof, the happier the PCM will be to provide you with the power you so desire. Just fitting a better IC will fix part of the problem, but, if you are already running overheated engine oil or transmission fluid it will not fix everything. Fitting engine oil coolers, fitting better IC's, and fitting better transmission coolers (and even insulating the elongated BA-BF intake pathways) will in ideal circumstances provide your engine with early sping like conditions in summer. Also, running high octane and high density fuel will help stave off the onset of predetonation in hot conditions, which in turn means more power from the PCM. Yet another approach, that is quick and cheap, is to take off slowly for a while before boosting in order to flush the engine bay, the IC etc. with air that is not at engine bay temperatures. The PCM algorithm will then reset its protection stragegy in order to exploit the relatively cool, non-enginebay temperature ambient air.

Are they 2 piece discs on the back wheels? If so, how does the handbrake work out with that?

Meguiars gold class leather is does a fantastic job of protecting leather and it produces a high-quality, low sheen-result that looks perfect. However, with sem-perforated leather the cream has a tendency to build up in the perforations. Meguiars therefore now also make a clear leather treatment specially for perforated leathers. This also works exceedinly well and keeps the leather looking like new.

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89172-well-I-pulled-my-rocket-cover-off-then-I-got-sad/

Read your owner's manual. Standard fluid change interval is 15,000 conditions, unless, the car is operated in harsh conditions. IIRC the manual defines harsh conditions as: - stop start driving (city driving) - prolonged high speed operation (country driving) - frequent cold starts - towing In harsh conditions the fluids and filters should be changed every 7,000km. In addition, prolonged high speed operation (country driving) and or towing, requires a diff oil change at every 7,000km.

RPF1 - why use anything else, really? (except that you want the car to look stock) Light, strong, not expensive, fits any brake type and has classic lines to suit any vehicle. Despite its motorsport heritage the RPF1 looks exceedinly refined on serious road going cars, unlike some rims, which really fall into the category of, 'because race car'. The GT pictured above looks perfrect.

If the car idles perfectly in N or P then perhaps it is not idle as such. A bad engine mount can present as a really bad shudder-stutter etc. and this will in general be only in evidence only when the driveline is under load, say in D (or 1) or possibly R. Often positioning the car on a gradient (such as a hill) when in D can make the problem worse because of the way that the engine weight is directed towards the engine mounts.

Suspension Compliance is not a dirty work. Compliance = Grip. Ive fitted whitline bars front and rear Sway bars kill suspension compliance and therefore reduce grip. That is how swaybars are used in suspension tuning. Even on dead flat roads Fitted to the rear swaybars allow the back of the car to slip more in order to increase vehicle rotation around the front wheels. Fitted to the front swaybars allow the front to slip at the front therefore reducing vehicle rotation around the rear wheels. Fitted at both ends... swaybars allow both ends to slip. On bumpy roads - in addition to the above - By fitting a swaybar you have reduced the ability of the suspension to move in response to variations in the ground. The car has less grip and what grip you have is poorly distributed from moment to moment - which causes the vehicle to wander. the previous owner fitted bilstein shocks front and rear The Bilsteins will improve grip and compliance... and make the car feel stiffer. How? At crawl speed the all suspension movements are at low velocities, so yeah, the Bilsteins reduce grip, but, the amount of grip you need at 20kph is trivial so it does not really matter. Once up to moderate driving speed the suspension velocities split into two groups. The high-speed suspension movement results from impact with bumps - this in turn pops the relieve valves in the Bilsteins making the suspension softer and gripper. Compliance is grip. At moderate driving speed and above, low velocity suspension movement corresponds to body movement only; the Bilsteins remain hard, thereby providing rapid chassis response to steering and other driver inputs. and rear and urethane bushes in the front If your suspension is already as ridged as too steel, by fitting hard bushes you have further reduced the ability of the suspension to move in response to variations in the ground. The car has less grip and what grip you have is poorly distributed from moment to moment - which causes the vehicle to wander. Some more points - You need compliance somewhere in the suspension. If you reduce compliance in one area of the suspension then another part of the system may be able to cover. It is therefore possible to have hard springs or bushes or whatever... but, making everything ridged is simply not going to work ever. Check your springs. They may be 'upgraded'... . What you need is factory spring rates. The tyres are a critical part of the suspension system. Removing sidewall flex is feasible, but in complex conditions, it results in reduced grip. On smooth roads reducing sidewall flex and making the tyre wider can add more grip, but, the grip gained is subject to brittle failure. Rather than having a nice progressive breakaway as you would have a slightly narrower and higher tyre, the ultra low profile wide roller tyre will provide uber grip right... until the instant in time that it provides no grip at all...... In short, if you are running 20" rims and rubber bands go back to factory spec wheels and get some high end tyres.

It is likely that these were made by Aunger for Ford, along with the Ford headlight shields and Ford windshields. It would be worth following up with Aunger for a group buy; the mould is out there somewhere and it wouldn't be a big deal to set up for a short run.

I have had Bilsteins for tens of thousands of km and they are simply awesome, awesome stuff in every situation. Nevertheless, that rattle just may.... be the Bilsteins... A reliable source told me that the (top) mounting holes for at least some Bilsteins were ever so slightly too large for the XR6-T (Falcon) mounting bolts. This may have been caused by the fact that the tolerance specificed for the holes were just wrong, or, it may have been something elese, like the fact that holes were specified for the wrong measurement system (imperial v metric). Interestingly, if you do a global search for Bilstein and rattle (or something like that) you will find that this sort of problem (rattle noise only when coming off small sharp bumps at low speed - otherwise simply awesome performance) is farily well known in the US and it is associated with a wide variety of vehicle platforms. The problem is the US is that the Bilstein mounting holes are ever so slightly too big. This, according to a number of people on US car forums, has been determined to be the result of the fact that the Bilstein mounting holes were defined by the wong measurement system (imperial v metric). Here are some numbers, which may or may not be correct. I have not been in a position to check this though someone else may. Rear BA Bilstein Top Mount width of top mount 39.5mm mounting hole diameter should be 12.2mm plus or minus 0.2mm actual 12.2mm plus or minus 0.5mm Rear BA Bilstein Bottom Mount width of bottom mount 49.5mm mounting hole diameter should be 14.1mm

All the factory non-Brembo calipers for the XR6 Turbo's were PBR (which is now owned by Bosch) The 'good-one' is the two-pot, light-weight PBR calipers supplied for the front of the Corvette. (PBR also supplies a very high end six-pot, six-pad caliper for the uber Corvette models) These calipers are easy to spot. They have a smooth forged surface (as opposed to a sand casting surface) and they are: - Painted Black when supplied as part of the XR6 Factory Premium Brake Upgrade. The decal says Ford. - Painted Blue when supplied on a BA FVP standard brake. The decal says FPV... I think - Painted Red (or Yellow? and...) when supplied direct by PBR as part of an aftermarket upgrade kit. The decal says PBR. The rear caliper stays the same as in the standard brake set. Except in the PBR aftermarket kits where the rear (standard calipers) are also colour coded red (and yellow and..)

No doubt Gillard and Rudd would have bought that, too.

Because monster rims are stilettos for cars. Women know stilettos are crap shoes, but ...

Yep it slows you down; big flywheels absorb more energy than little flywheels, hence more engine power goes into spinning up the big and wide metal rims. Futher, ultra low profile rubber has less compliance, which means less grip, and, if that is not enough it also exhibits non-linear breakway... In short, everything is crap.

FWIW Making the (rear) sway bar work better is kind of similar.... to increasing the size of the sway bar.... The upside is that it will be trivially easy to rotate you car in a high rate turn and the body will stay a bit flatter. Which is pretty nice. The downside is that it just kills your rear grip at high lateral loading out of a turn. Nothing nasty you understand, but, to some the loss of overall grip at the rear can be just frustrating as, and, it gets even worse in the wet. Your call, its a trade-off. You choose which flavor of suspension solution pushes your buttons. More FWIW These days computer modeling allows allows car makers to factor in bush compliance into the suspension model, and, to use the bush compliance to make the suspension do really cool things. This is standard practice in new car design and it started with the 928. Simply removing compliance from suspension system, whether its bushes, sway bars, tyre-sidewall, springing etc., generally produces a big hit of goodness by reducing the latency in the chassis system response, but, beyond a point there are nearly always big costs involved to the overall suspension solution. Compliance is not a dirty word. The classic case is where a manufacturer produces a series of 'handling specials' with each interaction being harder and more track focused than the last. Almost invariably the last and most track focused solution makes for a really nasty road car, not from the perspective of comfort, but from the fact that the suspension behavior become massively non-linear and complex (and therefore all but unpredictable on the road where there are no run-off areas) at high loadings.