aiboart

Turbulent flow is the objective for IC's and similar systems in order to faclilitate mixing and promote heat transfer throughout the mass of material. Pure laminar flow, even if it were possible, would see the boundary layer flows transfer heat - and that is about it.

1- Coils. 2- MAP sensor

No. Sticking with the Ford genuine (PBR) pads for the BA Premium Brakes. Those pads combined with DBA-5000's and PBR braided lines provide low braking effort, zero system latency, perfect control linearity and sustained high Fc even under very severe heat loads. I did try Ferodo DS-2000's, once. After a couple of thousand km I removed the pads from the car and went back to the Ford (PBR) pads.

Modulating something is fine provided that you have the skill and attention to deal with the situation. On a more fundamental level, where two systems interact (say car and driver) and the control system response is slower than the action of the slave system, the potential exists to create a negative feedback loop; the control system first overshoots and then it overcompensates...then it overshoots....

Cost, complexity, weight. For most road applications, front mounted air-air is more than sufficient. With water-air you need two heat exchangers (rather than one) fluid and a fluid drive. As for response... modern hi-end/hi-po road cars now feature software filters to dampen throttle response. Running shock torque loads into the contact patches, especially before weight transfer has occured, is bad for grip and chassis stability, which is fine if you are inducing instability in order to generate agility, but, not so fine if you are tooling around on the road. Turbo threshold and lag (what lag there is left these days) can be your friend in road situations where grip is marginal, such as on wet roads.

There needs to be a new club religion. "BEST TUNER IN THE WORLD but my car stalls all the time" But I still have faith in him... And give him money.

Depends. Had it once on two piece discs. After much running around trying to get a solution, a simple brisk drive and long cool down resolved the issue.

Factoring the cost of time and labor and the age of the components involved (and hence the expected service life) you may as well replace the coils and plugs in one hit and get those variables out of the way. If it works great. If not you have fresh coils and plugs for the next 5+ years. The genuine Ford coils and plugs are not that expensive these days.

Premium Brakes - full size spare was mandatory with Premium Brakes Premium Sound (color screen, sub woofer on rear shelf, big amp under drivers seat, A-pillar tweeters, 6-stacker CD player, etc.) Sunroof Reversing sensors Tow Bar Aux pre-amp (play music through Aux input, turn off ignition - if the volume collapses, you have the pre-amp) Aux cable Bluetooth Module (arrived with BF but fits BA also - a single button with a phone graphic in the middle of the console ) Premium Paint (anything other than flat white or red IIRC) Leather and 'leather' seats and door cards Front airbags (check for front seat airbag tags in the seat back seams nearest the door) Electric pedals, yes really (pedals go up and down - the control switch if present is near the ignition switch - drives Merc drivers mad) 18" alloy wheels with 245/40 series tyres - standard was 17" wheels with 235/45 series tyres Automatic Climate control - eschews the two dial HVAC controls for a button array Sports steering wheel (the fat one) Sports auto shifter (it's either grey or its brightly coloured to match the coloured XR interiors) Automatic gearbox Headlight Covers Foglight Covers Bonnet protector Rear window shade (external) Side windshield (skinny version / fat version) Internal rear window shades (twist to fold and store in front seat pocket) Rubber Boot mat/tub - heavy duty with lip Boot loading protection flap Boot storage net Carpet Mats ('Ford' / colour coded 'XR' / FPV chrome buttons) CD storage case (fits into the slot next to the tissue box slot) Phone 'presenter' (a hinged lever that lives inside the centre console - in the days of car kits the phone interface would be bolted to this) Storage pack for back seats (two versions, one for kids, one for adults) Peltier cooler for back seat - AC power pack for Peltier Cooler Mud Flaps Roof racks and fittings Smokers pack ... there are probably more

Just cool.

The powertrain computer looks at a whole host of factors including: intake air temperature, coolant temperature, engine oil temperature and transmission fluid temperature in order to decide whether or not to wind back power by pulling out boost or advance or both. It follows then that the cooler you can keep the beastie and the critical parts and fluids thereof, the happier the PCM will be to provide you with the power you so desire. Just fitting a better IC will fix part of the problem, but, if you are already running overheated engine oil or transmission fluid it will not fix everything. Fitting engine oil coolers, fitting better IC's, and fitting better transmission coolers (and even insulating the elongated BA-BF intake pathways) will in ideal circumstances provide your engine with early sping like conditions in summer. Also, running high octane and high density fuel will help stave off the onset of predetonation in hot conditions, which in turn means more power from the PCM. Yet another approach, that is quick and cheap, is to take off slowly for a while before boosting in order to flush the engine bay, the IC etc. with air that is not at engine bay temperatures. The PCM algorithm will then reset its protection stragegy in order to exploit the relatively cool, non-enginebay temperature ambient air.

Are they 2 piece discs on the back wheels? If so, how does the handbrake work out with that?

Meguiars gold class leather is does a fantastic job of protecting leather and it produces a high-quality, low sheen-result that looks perfect. However, with sem-perforated leather the cream has a tendency to build up in the perforations. Meguiars therefore now also make a clear leather treatment specially for perforated leathers. This also works exceedinly well and keeps the leather looking like new.

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89172-well-I-pulled-my-rocket-cover-off-then-I-got-sad/

Read your owner's manual. Standard fluid change interval is 15,000 conditions, unless, the car is operated in harsh conditions. IIRC the manual defines harsh conditions as: - stop start driving (city driving) - prolonged high speed operation (country driving) - frequent cold starts - towing In harsh conditions the fluids and filters should be changed every 7,000km. In addition, prolonged high speed operation (country driving) and or towing, requires a diff oil change at every 7,000km.