cs123

I've got a BA MK2 March 2005 build with exactly the same problem. Annoying as hell when the sun sines through the window. I've probably left it too late now to claim it.

I wonder if it could be a backfire caused by a cam timing issue

Great idea. What about a section where all dealerships are ranked by members, whenever a member visits them for servicing / parts / warranty. Something like a star rating. That way we could look up dealer ABC and see what other members have to say, good or bad. Might also be good for the dealerships that lurk here. They'll be able to get some candid feedback. Just out of interest sake, I heard that Holden (or maybe HSV) have a SSS rating for their dealers that are determined by quality surveys of customers. Do Ford do that for their dealers?

And you paid??? nucken futts vik...no way I would pay for a warranty issue,sounds like syncromesh to me??? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> They told me it was caused by dirty fluid and that the fluid is not covered by warranty. Pissed me off but what can you do? Oh wait, I know, take it back and tell them it didn't @#$@#$ fix it. It happens badly when cold but also at the lights. I've noticed that if I pop it out of gear and leave the clutch in that it seems to happen more often. I'm wondering if it is clutch drag as WTB56 suggested.

Sams problem for me. Ford changed the clutch hydraulic fluid and charged me $40 for the pleasure . No better.

Twice for my T, with a strange chattering noise to go with it. Stop and restarted it and all was OK.

It depends on the dealer. All dealers do panel work either themselves or using a panel shop they trust. My feeling is that you have a good chance of a quality job. I've used a dealer panel shop to repair crash damage before and was very happy with the result.

Does that have anything to do with showers?

I've just completed 1400 km in my mk2 6 speed and it has used 1 litre. I hope that trend doesn't continue. I don't know if the manuals may be more susceptible to oil usage and they would tend to rev a fair bit more than the autos.

Done a fair bit of towing with horses. Short answer, horses = auto. They much prefer the smooth acceleration of an auto over a manual.

I'm not runningone, just curious. Are you saying the non-return valve is sitting at the manifiold end and not at the booster?

Without seeing the placement of the hose, I'm having trouble believing that putting it there is a major problem. It obviously is on the correct side of the valve so if the main hose fails the booster still has a charge. If the guage or small hose fail then the engine is still supplying ample vacuum to service the booster through the brake booster hose. What am I missing?

As far as I know, most boost pressures are measured at the plenum, because that's the last place it can be measured b4 it goes into the engine... A turbo may be making 10 psi at the turbo, like you say, it might end up being 6psi at the plenum, but that air is hot.. With heat comes detonation ( also with not enuf fuel comes detonation ) . Add more fuel, raise the boost, off you go. If you can increase the efficiencies along the way, like intercooler and shorter/bigger inlet tract ( pipes ) then the boost at the plenum will be closer to the amount made at the turbo.. More turbo boost = more heat = less efficient. Bolt an exhaust on, you will make more boost, because your taking a load off the turbo.. ( backpressure ) Then you wind the turbo boost back down. Still the same boost in the end, but the turbo does less work to get there, and spools up quicker in the process, etc etc.. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thank you, all received and understood ... Looks like a worthwhile investment then.

The cooler the charged air the more power you will get. More dense air, more fuel in.. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> you will also find that you lose boost through the intercooler. I think the standard t cooler looses 2 psi through it, eg 8 pound in 6 pound out? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> so help me out here a bit. If the standard tune limits boost to 6psi where is that measured? Does that mean that the 6psi is turned into say 4psi at the t/b or is it a case of the turbo working harder to make 6psi at the t/b?

What advantage is there in fitting either one onto a car running standard boost?