boomer01

Hi, From my attempt at installing the Walbro pump yesterday I've have noted the following observations... It is very difficult to get the Walbro pump to fit the Ford factory white caddy (swirl pot - whatever you want to call it) as the filter provided with the Walbro is too long to fit into the caddy when attached to the pump. This pushes the Walbro pump up and therefore it sits to high (in the caddy), which then does not compress enough to be re-installed back into the fuel tank. (The caddy is spring loaded to ensure that it sits flush on the bottom of the tank). From what I can tell there are two primary issues with the Walbro pump install into the stock Ford caddy... 1. Fitting the appropriate EFI fuel line without the hose crimping. The EFI hose is too thick so you need to use longer lengths to ensure the hose bends are not too tight. Admittedly I didn't play around with longer hose lengths in an attempt to get this right (ran out of time) 2. Getting the Walbro fuel pump with the supplied filter adapter to fit into the caddy. From what I can see it doesn't fit without modifying the caddy (eg. shortening the metal guide rods to allow the caddy to compress further when re-installing back into the fuel tank. Either way (as least for me ) this is definitely not a 30 minute job for the uninitiated. Workaround.... I purchased a new pump and caddy which is supplied fully assembled and slots straight in. I'll be playing around with EFI hose etc. on the old caddy to see if the Walbro can be made to fit (again if you have fitted a Walbro and care to share any pearls-of-wisdom RE fuel hose length, caddy mods etc. etc. I would very much like to know...) Thanks again for your feedback. Regards, Tom.

Great... Off the top of your head do you know if the fuel line used was standard EFI hose? - something like 8mm? (If not I'll PM Simon...) Cheers, Tom.

Hi, I have run a few searches on 'how to fit a Walbro in-tank fuel pump' and whilst there are lots of hits on 'yeh I'm running one they're great or nope they're a piece of junk', ...there is not much mentioned about what fuel line is used to connect the Walbro pump to the in-tank caddy. I have attempted to use EFI fuel line (something like 8mm) and I cannot get the hose to sit correctly in the caddy without crimping. The hose is too thick. Is there a particular type of hose which is more suited to this application? Something similar to the hose Ford use with the factory setup. It’s quite ridged so it doesn’t crimp on the bends. Depending on how mechanically minded you are (and I’m not very) it’s quite a fiddley exercise. Would very much appreciate any info ... Regards, Tom

Geezzzz What did I tell you?......... nah seriously glad that's all that was wrong....just one question though ( and see danno's earlier post) if the said 600 too 800ml of fluid didnt go on the floor where did it go? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi, To clarify, it was down approx. 600 to 800ml as I had the trans fluid flushed by the dealer. Not enough new fluid was put back in. Refer to my original post. Cheers, Tom.

Hi, FYI...for those interested, the issue of the auto trans slipping on the 2nd to 3rd change turned out to be due to the tranny being low on fluid. I went back to the dealer and spoke to the workshop Forman who picked it straight away. Pumped approx. 600-800ml of Penrite Auto Sharp shift into the tranny and problem fixed. Cheers, Tom.

Hi, I have a recent similar experience to report. I had the auto transmission fluid replaced last Thursday. I had been using the Redline High Temp ATF (for approx. 12 months) and decided to give the Penrite SIN Auto Sharp Shift product a go (it's the Penrite 10-Tenths Comp ATF product re-branded). Anyway, I had the Ford dealer flush the auto-trans, in addition to the diff, previously using the Redline 80/140 product and this time around tried the Penrite SYN Gear 80/140 product.... A little more back ground, I have an auto-trans cooler installed, which bypasses the in-radiator cooler (it's a Drivetech cooler). After getting the car back and taking it for a test drive, I noticed at the time a one-off extended shift (time) from 2nd to 3rd. Similar to what Stang described, seem to build RPM, however it felt as if the vehicle was not accelerating. Has occurred approx. 3 or 4 times since the auto-trans fluid change. I had not previously experience the occurrence with the Redline ATF fluid, only started occurring intermittently since re-filling with the Penrite ATF Sharp Shift product... Is this flaring? Is the transmission on the way-out (I have approx. 31,000km on the clock)??? Cheers, Tom.

Thanks Nick. Looking forward to your WA visit. Ciao, Tom.

Hi Jordak, I'm keen to get the Wog over to Perth. Count me in! ...Surely there must be a few others here in Perth with T's looking for a tune??? Cheers...

F6 Dyno sheet. Stock Internals and Exhaust with Xteme Tune only (for now??!!). <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Great any graphs showing boost? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Second that motion :-) any graphs displaying what the boost levels are to achieve those numbers??? - if you have them...

So are you installing it yourself?? Look forward to seing your results. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi Swanga, Nope I'm not installing it... a tuner here in Perth is doing the work (I would most probably bugger it up!!! ) Cheers, Tom.

Hi, I am in the process of having the Hyperflow intercooler fitted (will be ready tomorrow - Thursday). No cutting, grinding, welding etc. required. I'm in Perth and I found the techs from Hyperflow (Sydney) to have been very helpful (even called to ensure that the kit arrived). I also purchased the Stage II pipework (it's on the Hyperflow website). The only issue was where to locate the auto-trans cooler as there is no longer enough space between the Hyperflow intercooler and the A/C condenser. Got it sorted though... The core is bar-n-plate and was a few $$$ more, however I didn't want the car cut-n-grinded etc. I'll post pics tomorrow. Regards, Tom.

Hi, Poking around the various tuner websites here in WA and found the following link RE the CAPA EDIT install special. For those interested the link is... http://chipmaster.com.au/Ford%20BA%20programming.htm Regards, Tom.

that's the problem, the minute you ad dthe amount of torque we now have down low the car cant be started at the same point. but the cars are making ALOT more pull from 2000 up. Its not hard to do with a manual, only really the autos <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi, So is it a case of (and I don't know I don't tune cars....) if you tune for greater boost at lower RPM, with the intention of producing more power in the lower part of the RPM range (and I get your point about dyno runs and WOT etc. etc.) do you sacrifice top end power? I guess what I'm asking is (and not very well ) is if you bring boost on later do you produce a higher rwkw total as compared with bringing boost on lower and producing greater rwkw's at low RPM, but maybe less overall rwkw's. Regards,

Hi, It's a good observation from Jordak, RE the comment on top-end v's bottom-end. For example (and yes we have to make the assumption that the dynos are the same - just for arguments sake, we know they're not... just don't go there...) I'm producing 192rwkw @ 3000rpm where as the XR6T in the Xtreme example is producing something like 110rwkw @ approx. 3000rpm However the Xtreme dyno shows a higher max. rwkw reading of 262.9, where as my chart show's 249.2 rwkw. So, does this mean that it's a trade off with the tuning approach for these cars? If you go for more bottom-end kilowatts, do you sacrifice top-end and v-a-v - higher top-end however less bottom-end performance? I would think (and it's just my opinion - I have no data/stats etc. I'm just throwing it out there...) that daily driving tends to be a low rpm exercise and that's where you want the ponies??? Again horses-for-courses, some may like the higher rpm approach... What do you think? Regards, Tom.

Hi, How often do you change the auto-transmission fluid? Regards, Tom.