Romulus

Thanks for the positive comments guys. I'll be removing the mud flaps soon.

Agreed Brian, but some people actually do drive these types of cars and ones even older and crappier. Not everyone is lucky enough to have a current model car with super size Brembos and super sticky Pirellis. The authorities have to take into account the worst conditions (fog + rain + night) and the worst driver (grandpa Joe) in the worst car (old Falcon/Expensive Daewoo etc). They can't have different speed limits for all the different combinations of drivers and cars and conditions so they err on the side of caution. I'm not sure what the solution is. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Putting it bluntly, those old cars shouldnt be on the road. If we are to let them drive on the road, yearly mechanical checks should be mandatory. If people cannot afford to

The road toll for the Christmas / New Year holiday period is up from last year. See attached article http://www.news.com.au/story/0,10117,17756509-23109,00.html Now, with that in mind, when are we going to see the resignation of the transport and/or police ministers for failing to reduce the road toll? In the corporate world, if you cause a financial loss, rarely do you keep your job. I notice the NT has again recorded a zero fatality rate this season, even though it does not have a double demerit period, and has open speed limits. The cynic in me thinks the government treats the whole road safety campaign as a means of generating revenue, rather than trying to save lives.

Each to there own but having had similar tunes to both A and B, B was much more rewarding on a day to day basis. The benefit of the A tune doesn't kick in until your over 4500rpm by which time your drawing way too much attention to yourself. Below that the B tune will leave it for dead, wheel spin or not. Tune B will also cause more load on rods and pistons, and will more than likely lead to engine failure. Tune A will ensure longer engine life. Not that I worry about either of those tunes. I'm happy with what I have.

Tune B will smoke the tyres easily from standstill, but run out of legs at high rpm. Tune A will not spin the tyres as much, but will pull much stronger to peak rpm. Personally, I'd have tune A over B anyday. A will feel much better than B. F6 UTE - the reason why boost is not held at high rpm is caused by several reasons, namely cat and exhaust restrictions. Eliminating those two, boost loss at high rpm is caused by wastegate creep. The stock actuator assembly cannot hold the wastegate swing valve closed due to the exhaust pressure in the exhaust manifold and turbine housing. I overcame this issue on my car by installing a higher boost actuator assembly. My car now runs from 13psi at 3000rpm to 16 psi at 6000rpm.

More details would be good before anyone can form an opinion. Perhaps a higher boost actuator was installed but tuned for a lower level

Never been beaten by any VT/VX/VY/VZ GENIII or LS2 on the street. Never. Seen a lot of 11 second LS1's down the plex, but they're running slicks, front runners, 90/10 shocks, low diff gears and all that other s_hit. Great if the only driving you do is down the strip, but on the street my money is on me beating them

Adrian, I saw a Winter White F6 BA with Brembo's for $52k at Nuford. Had 47kms on the odo from memory. Good price IMO.

Current ride:

The more frequent you replace your brake fluid, the better. A word of caution though, competition fluids are for competition use only and will not last long in street application due to the fluids' tendancy to absorb moisture. I'd steer away from racing-type fluids and go for a good DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid and replace it at least once a year, preferably every six months.

Agreed

Steve, You have 2 options. Either replace the factory rotor with a good quality DBA slotted one and run good pads (QFM or Ferodo) to retain the stock calipers, or put aside some money and upgrade the brakes to the Performance Brakes. This consists of bigger front and rear rotors and bigger calipers (front and rear as well). From memory you can buy a new performance brake package for $1900 plus fitting. If you like I'll find out where from. DBA do release a 5000 series 2 piece rotor for the BA. I enquired through a company in Sydney that is selling the AP brake upgrade for the BA. It consisted of 365mm front DBA 5000 series rotors, 6 piston AP calipers for front, and DBA 5000 series rotors for rear and 4 piston AP calipers. Jason.

What's your budget? You could try BBS, Simmons and ROH wheels - prices for 19's range from $700 - $1100 each excluding rubber. You can spend upwards of $300 - $800 per tyre too. With that in mind, why not see your local tyre reseller and see what they can do for you.

I've replaced my springs with Lovell lowered (10mm lower than stock) and Bilstein shocks, so can't offer an opinion based on a stock suspension setup. However, there is a noticable difference in handling with the lower profile tyres. I'm running 265 & 275/30/19 tyres and the ride is firmer than what it was with the stock (235/45/17) tyres. Warranty shouldn't be an issue with the new wheels.

What shaft is this???,you mean the luggs on the flat cap(I hope) vik... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> the threaded shaft(better pic) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Faaaark,I'd be going for the domes me self vik...dont stuffup the temper of the steel <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The domes look though <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yep.

You can't use a angle grinder, not with the wheel studs in place. Use a hacksaw with a good metal blade and do it by hand. Sure it's a little labour intensive, but you'll ensure no damage is done. Took me around 10 min each side.

Yes you can. I had to cut off 20mm for the centre cap to fit the rear wheels. It's a common problem on BA's with big/custom wheels.

Have a look at this link. These are my new wheels. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...topic=22276&hl=

Go the aftermarket wheels!

Once you've ridden in an edited (boosted up) XR6T (or F6), and you've beaten a couple of SS's, HSV Clubbies (including LS2 6.0l versions), and you can't wipe the smile off your face, then you will understand all this talk about mod's. Seriously, once you've experienced the true potential these vehicles are capable of, you'll understand what the talk is about.

I think you've done a great job. I still need to fix the scratch on the front right bumper; I raised the car almost to standard ride height as I was sick of bottoming the car out and hitting kerbs with the superlow springs. XR badges look great too!

Nice wheels. What size are they? edit: I looked at the website and they have a special for the 19 x 8.5 and 19 x 9.5 wheels. Are these them? I like the look of the dish on the rear rims. Must be the season for new wheels

Thanks. I agree about the wheel cleaning - Ferodo DS2500 pads and DBA 4000 series slotted rotors = lots of brake dust. I'll be sure to clean these wheels at least once a week if not more often.

I chose the 6-speed manual for it's ability to hold huge amounts of torque. Sure, I've had to upgrade to a stage 4 Mal Wood clutch kit, but other than that, the manual shifts great. I'd be dubious about the 6-speed auto's ability to hold on to 350-400rwkw for prolonged periods of time. However, the A6 does shift wonderful. I test drove a XR6T A6 some 4-6 weeks ago and was really impressed. Probably a great trans for everyday driving, but not for a highly modded T imo.

Ordered these 5 weeks ago and turned up on Wednesday this week. Wheels are 19 x 8.5 for the front, and 19 x 9.5 for the rear. I had them custom made for fit over the Alcon brakes I was going to buy, but will probably get AP's instead. Tyre of choice was originally Continental Sport Contact 2, but after speaking to several people I formed the opinion it would have been a waste of money. I've opted with Hankook Ventus Sport K104's instead. Yesterday I also fitted a Herrod lower grill and painted the intercooler black. I thought the polished intercooler stood out too much for my liking. It's more subtle from the front now.