Romulus

What becomes the next weakest point from there? The diff bolt or the diff hat?

Having thought about the AWD conversion I'm going to put it on hold. While its likely to be a great conversion the cost is a bit prohibitive, taking into account the amount of fabrication required to the sump, oil pickup, transmission R & R plus other associated costs. Maybe reconsider this at a later stage. Meanwhile I've ordered bush overhaul kit for the front and rear suspension for a freshen up. Also, since I've had the vehicle the diff has a whine (much like our Premier, Mark McGowan) which has become more noticeable since the diff bushes and control arms have been upgraded to Nolathane & Superpro parts. I've ordered a 3.07 ratio for the M86 diff, somewhere between the 2.73 in the sedan and the 3.23 it currently runs. 3.23 is renowned for diff whine. The 3.07 will give it a little more legs in gear. New wheels are on the way, got Simmons 19X9 FRC NCT's. Will try 275/45/19's which should fit. Did an oil change yesterday as I noticed the oil I used last time was as black as bitumen after only 4000kms. Used Valvoline 15W-40 engine armour. Never again, totally junk oil. Switched back to Penrite 15W-40 semi synthetic. No point running fully synthetic IMO as I'll be changing the oil every 5,000kms. At some time I'll get the timing chain and tensioner plus guides replaced with the Atomic gear. While the engine was rebuilt with new genuine chain, tensioner and guide I think it's peace of mind to replace it after nearly 20k of engine service. The chain does rattle sometime during startup, good enough sign to do the upgrade.

You're hamstrung with the stock exhaust, it'll only flow so much, running 20+psi boost is simply going to get you to the exhaust restriction earlier in the rev range. Been there, done that experiment with my Territory. The turbo will now hold 24PSI boost throughout the rev range with no more than 1-2psi back pressure in the exhaust. Verified on the dyno.

Ahhh yes, the closed loop boost surge caused by tuners not knowing how to tune.

Correct. Doing both.

Exactly. So the point of the IF is to get into ketosis. I have my last meal around 6-7pm and then dont eat until after midday. Water or black coffee is about all I have during this period. Have learnt that a small amount of thickened cream in the coffee won't break the fast and helps take the edge of the black coffee. Took around 4-6 weeks to get into IF, was struggling with headaches every single morning for a while when I started. Now it's just a walk up, not eating until after midday.

True. I'm doing intermittent fasting, 18 & 6. Lost around 8 kgs by doing that, cutting out the morning ritual of breakfast with an iced coffee or choc milk. I avoid added sugar where I can and cut out my addiction to chocolate. I've done 10 PT sessions at my old gym to set up a 3 way split routine, after just 10 sessions I've lot 2 inches around my waist and gained elsewhere. Diet is 70% of your weight loss strategy.

I bet it blows the front tyres off towing like that, especially uphill!

Yeah I thought so too given a used transfer case on fleabay or dumtree is $350-500.

$500 all up. The trans is dead, but that doesn't matter. I needed it for the transfer case and output shaft from the ZF. The seller threw in the front and rear driveshafts as well the generous chap!

Got a used ZF 6 speed complete with transfer case and front and rear driveshafts. Should be picking up a complete rear 3.46 ratio diesel subframe and AWD K frame next week. Engine brackets arrived so I’ll be able to dummy assemble the engine, trans into the AWD frame to start the sump modification for the front diff.

Would have thought IAT's would be a couple degrees above ambient when cruising. I'm rarely seeing 5-8 degrees difference between ambient and IAT's, regardless of whether cruising or WOT.

Thanks. Good to know it wasn't the calibration or the hardware, just a stupid random fault to throw you a curve ball once in a while.

So I've been chasing my tail with an intermittent misfire. The obvious culprits are the plugs and coils. Replaced the spark plugs with new ones and swapped over the coils with a spare set from the original SZ NA engine. Problem went away for around 30 minutes.......and then it came back. Ok, cant confirm if the coils are the problem because they're not new. Ordered a set of new genuine coils and installed them yesterday. Drove ok for around 30 minutes.....and then the misfire came back. Right, maybe the coil driver in the PCM is rooted. In July, I wired up the Eboost controller to the positive feed on coil #6 and blew that coil up as soon as it started. See post #10. Lesson there, don't follow the instructions. You can't hard wire the rpm pickup from the Eboost to the wiring harness on the SZ. Anyway, this morning the intermittent misfire became permanent which was good, as it made trouble shooting easier. Turns out the plug to the #6 coil was making intermittent contact with the pins. Wiggling it around while the engine was running could make the misfire come and go. Cut the farker off and soldered on a spare unit I had from an old engine harness. Presto, misfire gone. After checking the calibration for hours, spending hours and countless $$$$ on parts it ends up being something obscure like a dodgy plug. Cars I tell ya... Going to check out a 2014 Terri diesel AWD wreck on Monday. Eyeing up the complete front end K frame with all suspension, driveshafts and the complete 3.46 rear end for the AWD conversion.

Yep, I do. I've been around longer than you have. Perth's a small place in the aftermarket automotive industry.

The Monsta Torque 1000rwhp ZF/6R80 trans is in. Shifts are superb and handle the WOT shifts with absolute ease. Rob is a real master when it comes to these transmissions, I believe the best in Australia from what I’ve heard. I’ve also begun accumulating some parts to work out if my next conversion is feasible....... SZ diesel front diff and diesel sump. Will figure out how to get this adapted to the petrol sump. While rwd is fun, awd with 500plus rwkw/awkw is more tractable. The SX/SY front diff wont work due to EPAS on the SZ and the different front K frame. Should the sump mod work I’ll run the NV125 transfer case from the SX/SY AWD, this is a tried and tested unit. I’m not sure if the SZ TOD transfer case will be up to the job. Have already sourced a used AWD ZF trans, transfer case and front and rear driveshafts. Can get hold of a complete low k rear cross member with 3.46 diff from a SZ diesel, and the front SZ awd front k frames are a dime a dozen at the local wreckers. Hoping to get this done over the next 3-4 months.

You might have to flush the trans a couple of time to dilute the other oil that's in it.

Start saving them pennies, it's ZF/6R80 time soon! I just had mine done, the gearshifts are crisp and sharp compared to the factory box. No amount of tuning will overcome the factory hardware deficiencies.

Nice result. On E85?

Reads like something has deteriorated in the pump, filter or lines and blocked the injectors. Good to see you've got it sorted.

I'd say the pump is fingered. However, check the power supply as well.

Out of pump. Try a new Walbro 520 and see how that goes.

When you say running away....lean or rich?

G6ET, 511rwkw on E85, GTX3582R @ 20-21psi boost. Monsta Torque hub dyno.

Correct. My Territory is a NA, I switched on Turbo logic in the PCM, changed the MAP sensor to a 3 bar unit and use an aftermarket boost controller in the absence of the factory PCM being able to control boost. Not sure how the vapour injection system fuel mapping works.