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Sorry to dig up an old thread... Does anyone have the part no. for the bigger heat exchanger? I do a fair bit of heavy towing and wouldn't mind upgrading. Ford always want the VIN number when ordering parts.
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RE55's are fine unless there is standing water, fine if it's wet, but they will aquaplane very easily if there is puddles. You will probably find you have less grip than normal road tyres until you get a decent amount of heat into them as well when it's dry. Also they will sound like you're driving a 4wd with mud tyres on, HEAPS of road noise.
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For the last couple of weeks I've been getting a fuel smell when the tank has been over about 3/4 full, yesterday I filled up and literally saw a stream of fuel leaking out from under the car. I assumed it was probably coming from the filler tube or something, but when I got home and checked it out it was coming from somewhere else right up the top of the tank. I assume from a breather or something? It's a BFII sedan. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem? How much was it to fix? Did you need a new tank, ect. Also I had a look in the service manual and it looks like you need to pull out the IRS cradle to pull the tank out. Is it possible to pull out without doing that?
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Any update on this?
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You will probably need to cut the silicon joiners on the passenger side shorter as well. If you don't the undertray will hang down heaps lower than it should. Apart from that it's pretty straight forward.
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Twin 2.5 actually equals 3.53. Also with turbo motors the less pressure after the turbo the better.
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I'm looking at getting a set of SSR SP1 Professors. I want decent fitment, I.e. near flush. I'll lip the guards if I need to. Do you think 19x8.5 +25 front and 19x9.5 +30 rear will fit?
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The flap needs to have tension on it. With the rod pulled off it should be about half the hole shorter then the flap. You should have to pull the actuator about 3mm to make it fit on the flap. If it's not tight enough you will run less boost.
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Yeah I saw that. I was hoping either bilstein had started making shocks to suit BFII or someone else had experienced this and could confirm BA-BF ones definitely fit.
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I'm trying to do a bit of a suspension upgrade at the moment on my BFII. I'm getting Bilstein shocks, king springs and whiteline swaybars. I'm just trying to find out a part no. for the Bilstein shocks for BFII. Do they make they or can I just use the BA-BF shock and buy the springs to suit BA-BF? The part numbers I have at the moment are: Bilsteins: Front: B46-1255BA (for BA/BF not BF MKII) Rear: BE5-62670 King springs: Front: KFFL-57SL (to suit BA/BF - BFII is KFFL-53SL) Rear: KFRL-68SSL Whiteline swaybars Front: BFF21 Rear: BFR42Z Is there anything else that would be needed or worthwhile doing at the same time?
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Hey, Paul I see you've joined me in ditching the S15, these things are so much more comfortable, not as much fun to drive though. Be prepared for greatly increased fuel bills though.
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Thanks all. The timeslip is in the timeslip database up the top of the page. It's a A6, tyres are just Kumho street tyres.
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60' time was 2.0, don't think it has much more in it on street tyres. I had a set of MT's but the hub ring in the wheels are too small for the ford hubs.
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Had my XR6t tuned by elite auto this week, was expecting a little bit more but it seems that I got a dodgy tank of fuel and the valve springs apparently need replacing too. Mods are, Xforce exhaust, Rapid V3 cooler, PW surge tank, 60lb injectors, wastegate mod and 10psi actuator. Also took the car out to Willowbank last night, ran a 12.2 @117mph on street tyres, which seems about right for the power.
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I've just fitted a xforce turbo back twin 2.5inch exhaust to my BFII xr6t. The rear muffler and piping don't seem to line up properly. The piping hits the rear subframe and the tips rest on the rear bar. I can only get 2 of the 3 rubber hangers on the rear muffler on, the rear one is squashed right up and the other 2 are stretched right out, I can only get one of these 2 on. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem. I bought it online so it looks like I'll have to get a local exhaust shop to fix it.