dave-

That's a fair point. I don't remember in any of the edit hype that the TC would no longer function. However ST has mentioned that it is being looked at, so time will tell. And its built like a $15k Korean sh*tbox! But what does that have to do with this thread?

The GT-R could run an 11sec quarter while still being as comfortable for 4 adults (boo hoo can't sqeeze in 5) as the XR6-T. And it could do all that without diff clunk, driveline backlash, sssh shhh rear brakes and so forth while driving Melbourne to Sydney heh.

Don't know if they make them, but I saw an EF/EL today that had the BA 18's on it. I thought they changed the wheel offest etc when they went to the BA's and they weren't compatible with the E series? RE the 17's, I'm sure I read on one of the forums that someone had found them at one of those big wheel/tyre package places. Tyre Factory or something like that? May have been the other ford forum? Sorry for being so vauge

Not at all, but there is quite a difference between questioning what car and what mods did the run, to just coming out and saying "*cough* bullsh*t *cough*" wouldn't you say?

OK I'll bite. *cough* bullsh*t *cough* When, where, and who were the witnesses. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> People are so quick to doubt! Some of you Ford guys are as narrow minded as them bloody LS1 guys!!! Its a CV8 Monaro, "slightly" altered from its dealer delivery form All the info you require is #6 on the following list...... http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/timeslips.php? (Don't need to be registered to view that page either) And I'm sure some smartarse will say that their is no scanned copy of the timeslip on there.........but that is their problem!

I'd say whatever price people are paying for them ugly Fairmont style boost gauges! All the other readouts are a bonus

Sounds like the tuners need to learn how to alter the ETC function or wait for CAPA/etc to inform them how it works! Would have been a good scenario to test while they were doing their development I'd have thought?

I had that POS break like 3 times on my old Mk1 XR. Could have fixed it myself one of the times, but twice the plastic actually snapped/cracked. Every time I open the bonnet to check my current oil burner I just wait for it not to release, so far so good

Whats this manual conversion stuff Grab the attachment and save yourself the effort next time conversion.zip

At the end of every straight is a corner! So I'd say braking/handling are more important than power any time!

Average around 20-22L/100km a tank. I'm on a first name basis with the local servo seeing as I'm visiting about 3 times a week :lol:

Looks great Pretzel. Assuming the values are read from the factory sensors, it wouldn't be very hard to make different gauge sets? How many different sensors have you been able to find for display? Is 5 readouts the maximum you can fit on the screen, can a smaller font be used to fit more? PS: I wonder if anyone will constest the values until its run on a neutral dyno :lol:

I'm gonna stand out like dogs balls here Don't like Fords, even though my first car was one. Have no need for a sedan, much prefer a coupe. Don't tow anything. Altho its a fun car to drive and performs better than I expected thru the twisties. Given the current level of faults and the way they are handled, I'll never drive another Ford again, regardless of how quick it is. The XR6T was the best choice available on our list of operational lease cars so I got one

While I agree that its a crap box, it is still far more enjoyable than an Auto. Mine snags, crunches and grinds from time to time regardless of how I am driving, but at the end of the day....that Ford badge on the front grill results in my expectations of a decent motor car to be near impossible

If you guys need gauges why limit yourself to only being able to monitor 1 or 2 things? Check out the SPA Technique Dual Gauges http://www.spatechnique.com/dualgauges/dualgauges.htm They have quite a few combinations, recall and warning features as well as outputs which you could use to trigger intercooler sprays etc. Sure they don't look very bling, but at the end of the day are you trying to look good or protect your car? Friend of mine had a couple in his old car. They were excellent and being a digital readout, much quicker to read than an analog guage! Then you don't need to worry about what temps are useless, you can have them all! I reckon Boost with Water or Air Temp and then Oil Temp and Pres would be a good combo.

General question.... If you tow a car to the track on a towtruck, do you have to pay extra for parking inside the grounds or is it covered in the racer entry fee? Will definately wonder down and say hello Geea.

Rod, I've sent you a PM to make sure its ok. I won't racing, but I'm gonna tag along with a friend for the night and come meet you guys. Guess it shouldn't be too hard to spot you guys, I'll just look for the self proclaimed president surrounded by his minons and yell out "hey craig"

Good idea, I'll head over there and have squiz! Sorry for the hijack beauies

Holy farken crap Track! I'd say your getting close to taking a chance with insurance fraud!!!! Might be a less painful resolution And I felt hard done by with my 3mth old MkII Turbo... Without Hijacking that other thread, or yours too much hehe..... Items I've raised with the dealer and they claim to have "fixed" By 3000km's the engine required 2.5L of oil for the dipstick to register "Ok" - 1st Dealer said don't worry about it, normal run-in At about 5000km I saw the oil pressure light flash again, mention it to dealer #2 and they claim its all good. Suspect they just topped it up. Again at 7000km, oil press light again while accelerating or hard braking to a traffic light etc. Check oil, dipstick shows nothing. Add 500ml, still nothing. Car now at 8000km, starting not to give a fark! Circular marks on every one of my 18" wheels. - Dealer claims these are factory machine marks and they all have it Hollow cracking/banging noise coming from the steering under varying amounts turn, happens while reversing, driving thru round-a-bouts, u-turns, anything really!!! - 1st Dealer did steering re-work as per TSB #78/04 (that's whats on my paperwork), didn't do a damn thing! - 2nd Dealer, 2-3 different visits claims I'm hearing things and the car is fine. However they claim to have first torqued up the rack and then on a later occation said they replaced a washer which was a recall item (wtf), one mech claimed they removed the whole rack and re-fitted it at one point (yeh sure). For the last couple 1000km's, the engine check light would flash constantly. 4-5 times the car has gone into an erratic coughing fit, reving like sh*t with check light on. - Dealer replaced "TPS Sensor" and cleared fault codes claiming they test drove the car and it was fine. Drive home and notice constant flashing within 5mins again heh, book it in again.... - Dealer then replaces the Accelerator Pedal and "Self tested electronics management system, all ok" Check light stops flashing constantly but the coughing fit remains Gear knob leather peeled up from the metal at the bottom, theyre pissing me off so I made it worse and made them change it - Dealer replaced knob, so far the only thing they've done right heh From day 1, wasn't happy with the 6spd shifting quality at times. 1st to 2nd is the worst. - 2 Dealers said its fine 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd is getting "crunchy". Quite embaressing when you goto do a change and the f*cker sticks in the middle of the gears (And yes I have looked at my driving, I even thought it was my fault at first, but I can get it to do it on a real slow and easy shift, fully concentrating on what im doing!!!) Other stuff that I've not chased the dealer about yet, as I believe they are incapable of doing 1 thing at a time let alone many!!! - Front Passenger Seat makes a squeaking noise but only if someone is sitting in it!!!! - Car quite often feels like it is struggling, surging, and just in general lacking power - I ALWAYS turn TC off, yet a number of times I've noticed it switch itself back on. - Severe brake shudder and that's with Premium brakes! (Dealer has actually noticed this and said next time they'd send the discs off for machining because they can't be done in house wtf. Then there is the general build quality of the car. I should have paid more attention when I took delivery but the excitement took over and being a company car I figured its not a big deal anyway. But the fit and finish of all the doors, guards, bumpers are f*cking terrible. Front inner guards have dried up paint runs, bumper near headlight you can see where the paint stops. Almost looks like a really bad front repair job!!! Probably more stuff, but that's all I can remember off the top of my head right now. Being a company car, I'm now at the point where if the dealer doesn't care about my car, then I couldn't give a sh*t either. Don't have time to spend returning a car every week to the dealer and being without for a day. So when it breaks, they'd better hope a courtesy car is waiting!!!!

Yeah I have been doing this. I make the dealer write a written report on everything they tell me. Mainly because a) I'll forget and b) I feel better making the pricks do more work hehe Being a fleet car with a very large Aussie company, I'm slowly collating all the info and will go whinge to the fleet managers. Maybe the dealer will pay more attention then!!! I can't beleive the arrogence they are showing regarding your car and situation. Any sane business would make mends ASAP!!! I've heard people at work who don't read forums or care about cars comment on your photo and I'm in another state haha!!! Shame you don't get 5c for every view like a webpage :lol:

No point, I've tried another 2 and they're no better. The only good thing about the current dealer is they're so close to work at least it's not out of my way. The other 2 are a right royal pain in the ass! Previously when the engine checklight would flash like crazy, I didn't notice the car acting any differently. The only apparent problem in the last couple weeks (which the dealer said would be fixed with the accelerator pedal thing) is that when I am coming to a stop or coasting very slowly, the car will break into a 'fit'. The revs jump up and down around 1000rpm, the whole car shakes quite badly and it feels like its going to die. When this starts the engine check light comes on and the car is basically unusable. Turning it off and restarting and it disappears. Has happened 3 times in the last couple weeks. The car has had no reflash done at all.

I've had the same problem just resolved with the accelerator pedal/assembly replaced. Something about it having faulty potentiometers to do with fly by wire throttle? Engine check light no longer flashes up constantly like before, but the car is still f*cked. Dealer claims my car arrived from Ford in December with the most up to date software and refuse to reflash it period. Getting sick to death of this f*cking car! Great when it runs but visiting a dealer every week is really giving me the sh*ts. I'll be running a "Lemon" sticker like Track soon!!!

So is this an (un)official Vic meet? Might have to come down

I had the premium sound in my old mk1 XR6 and now again in my current mk2 XR6T and the ICC is identical. As is most of the dash. Only difference anywhere is that I now have a TC button, which I'd much prefer didn't exist

What he said! Some of the "kill" stories you hear from people that own stock XR6T's are a joke!!! Doesn't mean "XR6's think they are all that". You get wankers in every circle, STi and XR6T are not immune