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Lennox

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Everything posted by Lennox

  1. Hahah yeah I thought I would have been harassed about it by now
  2. I was wondering what active automotive was.. Saw a vy ss around the corner from me a few weeks ago with big active automotive stickers down the side.. I thought wow those stickers look stupid bet it's a standard ss. Then I hear a ferocious spool up sound over the roaring v8 and the thing flew down the road half sideways in a massive cloud of tyre smoke.. Sounded amazing I bet your mates doesn't sound half bad either!
  3. That looks mad so far
  4. Maybe go to a car audio shop and listen to some that you like in your price range with your own music, that westside car audio place seems to stock a good range of quality stuff Hertz etc are good but will set you back a few more dollars than some mass produced jb hifi gear
  5. Yeah box makes so much difference I tried my IDMax in 1cu, 1.5 now it's ported and in 2.5 tuned to 28hz.. You can't have bass without space
  6. My car had those stickers on when I bought it, first thing I took off haha!
  7. Yeah. Half a cube per sub maybe? Utter sh*t
  8. You'd wanna know the exact size of that before buying it you can't just throw subs into any sized box and expect it to sound good..
  9. 12" will do you better than a 10" for rnb and dance mate yeah.... just remember 3db volume increase is a double in amplifier power, sensitivity and frequency response are the real things to compare on
  10. Cheers ill get em to look at them too.
  11. Mine died yesterday! Coincidence? I think not
  12. I'm gonna try get it done under warranty from the dealer I bought it off so hopefully it's covered but I'm sure if it is they will only replace the busted ones
  13. Just noticed its shallow mount... Best for utes hey. Normal sized subs are way better for a given price.. The box only needs to be around 1 cubic foot for most cheaper woofers its not that much space if you think about it mine is in 2.7 cubic feet and there's still plenty of space in the boot..
  14. Pretty bad tbh, sorry. 40hz response is terrible, it would start to roll off well before that as well, so more than likely it will be really one notey.. Certain frequencies will sound really loud and lower down it will just be nothing. Sensitivity is bad as well. Cos it's a 10" that isn't gonna be great but you'll get one with better than 83db sensitivity. Its also cos rockford have those thick plasticy cones, they look awesome but it a lot of weight for the amp to push around
  15. Would that be causing this noise I'm having when turning? Diff bush is f*cked as well, checked that too while I had the car up
  16. That was what you wanted, am I correct?
  17. my diff bush is smashed as well :(
  18. Hi I have been getting a bit of a clunking noise coming from my front right wheel when turning at slow speed lately when I'm parking etc, so I took the wheel off today and couldn't see much other than that the front right upper control arm bush closest to the front of the car is cracked around the top Is this likely to make this noise? Are they easy to change out? Cheers for your help!
  19. rockford tend to not have a very good sensitivity which means they take more power to make the same level of sound as a more "efficient" woofer. look at all the woofers in your price range and compare the sensitivity ratings, whichever has the highest go for it with a 10" you arent going to get huge output so sensitivity is crucial.. especially in a big sedan sensitivity is massive; 3 dbs higher is equivalent to DOUBLE the amplifier power so if you get a 10" that has a sensitivity of 86db running off a 400wrms amp that will put out volume equivalent to a sh*tter woofer with say 83db sensitivity running off 800wrms! if you're looking for a cheapy I'd go pioneer straight up, 6db higher sensitivity than the punch series rockford 10", if you have money to burn quality brands like image dynamics, focal, re audio etc. but if you want bling rockford is good..
  20. You can definitely not do that! That's high level output up to 10-15 watts going into low level input (RCA) that is a sure fire way to f*ck your amp up. Don't listen to those idiots at budget shops.
  21. I have one installed but got signal from the front door speakers
  22. I got my line converter from jaycar it was like 20 bucks. Just make sure you keep it and all it's associated wiring away from any power cables or powered devices. I put all my wiring in loom tube to keep it a little more protected from interference (plus keeps it neat) not sure if it does anything but I don't have any noise in my system at all I have an FG though my old BA had noise I could not get rid of without a capacitor over the supply.. Fg is a lot better
  23. I'm pretty sure that wont work because say if there's a break in the music and the rear speakers have no signal the amp will turn off and then click back on when it gets signal again.. That's if it even fires up with the voltage from speaker level..OP id be careful before using speakers as remote turn on unless someone has done it before and it works well seems unlikely though And by the way you don't need a line out converter if you have speaker level inputs on your amp.. Check that before buying anything. This is fine for a simple install with the stock setup, I run all my gear (mb quarts reference series splits off 260wrms amp and 12"IDMAX off 600wrms) off the stock head unit with a line out converter and it sounds pretty damn good
  24. That is how every install I've seen has been done.. Never heard of running remote from speakers as they are not 12vdc but AC. Does it work?
  25. Remote should come from a switched source like cigarette lighter....
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